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Hi all. I seem to have snookered myself, but maybe (hopefully) there is a way around it... I have a stove planned for my living room, with a flue going straight up through the ceiling into the bedroom wardrobe space above, and on through the roof. Installer had planned on using Dinak DW or T600 flue, but... - 125mm flue outer diameter is 175mm - Receommended clearance between flue and combustibles (joists), 60mm - Space between joists (in first floor), 285mm So that suggests that my joists are 10mm too close for this to be compliant? - Can I solve this problem with a heat shield on one side (I think a heat shield needs 25mm circulation, but what are they and how thick are they?) - Any other flue system/brand that may squeeze in here? Related - is that 60mm clearance a manufacturer recommendation or a regulation? (The roof joists are wider spaced, so this problem just exists at first floor level) Thanks, James

Hi all, I'm building a parapet/flat roof 2 storey house, with woodburner stove served by flue exiting through wall on ground floor. I cannot figure out how much higher than my (aluminium) parapet capping I need to take the flue. I just can't relate the regs to this configuration (no windows, ridges, neighbouring walls etc). Any help appreciated.

Well, 8 degs and wet outside, so we lit the stove. One small load of wood on minimum air setting, we now have the windows open to cool down.

I am starting work on the main living room and need to provision for the installation of a wood burning stove. I am having trouble understanding the seemingly conflicting building regs. The house is being built in Scotland, and is based on the 2013 issue of the Scottish building regs as that is what was in force when out building warrant was submitted. Stoves and flues come under section 3 of the Scottish regs and you can download it from here http://www.gov.scot/Topics/Built-Environment/Building/Building-standards/publications/pubtech/th2013domcomp Sections 3.19 is what is giving me trouble. It is a timber framed house. I do NOT have a constructional hearth. I could install one, but it would be a LOT of work. Now, what I normally see, is a stone slab superimposed on the floor, and a stone slab up the wall behind the stove. That is what most people seem to do. But I am trying to make that fit with building regs. 3.19.1 starts by saying combustible material must be 200mm from a flue. 3.19.2 modifies that by saying a "system chimney" (i.e. insulated twin wall flue) only has to maintain the manufacturers stated distance from flamable material, usually about 50mm. So the flue looks straightforward, un insulated plain flue sections >200mm from flamable material. Now onto the stove itself. 3.19.5 talks about the hearth. It usefully gives the minimum size of hearth. Then starts to contradict 3.19.5 a A constructional hearth 125mm thick. OR 3.19.5b b a 12mm thick superimposed hearth IF the manufacturer states the bottom of the stove will not exceed 100 degrees. Then it starts to contradict and later says a superimposed heart must be at least 50mm thick AND positioned on a constructional hearth There seems so be mo mention in building regs about the usual stone slab up the back of the stove. It seems if I wanted to, I could just have a plasterboard wall and as long as the stove is 150mm away from it, that would be okay according to the regs. I think in practice it would most certainly NOT be okay. I know the sides and back of a stove can get very hot indeed and I would say some protection IS needed. So the first purpose of this thread is to determine just what I need to do to the floor to put a stove on it? We have a timber floor (JJI joists) covered in OSB. There will then be 25nm battens to create a space for UFH pipes, then solid wood flooring probably 22mm thick. So idea No 1 is leave that empty where the stove is going, lay the floor, then pour a 47mm thick slab of concrete level with the top of the floor. Then lay a superimposed hearth over that, overlapping the floor slightly. That would be the best we can do, but depending which of the conflicting regs you read, it may or may not meet regs. Any other ideas? I am planning to use the Burley Springdale 3KW stove with ducted air intake. It has the option of an additional 170mm base, which I believe (I need to check) would meet the 100 degree max so would be okay for a superimposed hearth. So it all boils down to interpretation of just how thick a superimposed hearth has to be and upon what it has to sit.

Hi all, I am currently in the middle of a new build (roof is now on). I need to start making decisions on heating/plumbing and I wanted to get some advice before proceeding. My idea is to use off-peak power supplemented with a solar array to run 2x Sunamps for DHW and UFH. The house will have a wood-burning stove, so although I will install UHF plumbing during construction, I might not utilize unless we feel we need it. quick info: - 2 bedroom Bungalow 120m2, well insulated (200mm EWI), triple-glazed, good air-tightness. - I plan to use Sunamp UniQ9 HW+iPV for DHW and another for UHF (UHF will be in two bathrooms and kitchen approx 40m2) - 2.3kw solar array (flat roof mounted) - wood burning stove 5-8kw Some questions I have so far: For DHW, am I right in thinking I need a unvented pressurised system for this set-up... as a pump is needed to draw water through the Sunamp? Is there any need for an expensive solar PV diverter? Surely I can just have a switch with a timer for sunrise/sunset after the inverter? Thanks everyone!! --

Evening all, first request for advice! I’m opening up our fireplace which was previously an open fire and have already placed a lintel for support. I’ve hit a bit of a roadblock in that the bricks inside the chimney angling up to the right do not seem to be supported by anything. On the left side they look to be resting on the one course of bricks, which I would like to remove, on the right, they sit across 3 courses of brick, 2 of which I’m looking to remove. further up, they do not seem to be interlocking with the front or back wall, just mortared to each other almost floating in the middle if I remove some of the legs. Am I safe to remove the bricks in the feet or am I in danger of causing some damage to the chimney? TIA for any comments, Rob

Just on the off chance, does anyone know what the diameter of the fire rope for the Fire Door is? I have the manual, (it doesn't say what the diameter is) I have rung the supplier; the lass had no idea what the diameter is. So, as usual, I end up on BH asking everyone else. Phhh....