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The system was finished and commissioned in January 2021 by professionals who commented on our excellent pipe fittings and general first fit of the whole house ventilation. In August to unit set itself in summer override and was continuously working on boost. When the weather cooled down, it didn't stop the boosting but the summer override light has switched itself off. We tried the 'turn it off and back on' trick but it didn't work. As the weather was fine we left the unit turned off for a few weeks but it would not turn back on after that. We contacted the makers and they said it could be the PCB or even the fan motors could have ceased. Long lead time on parts meant that it was left turned off again. Two weeks ago we were woken up by dripping inside the vertical ducts and we discovered that all the pipes were full of condensation, water and black mould and that the unit is full of fluffy white mould. Many ducts junctions were leaking and we had to disconnect the ducts and block the vents to try and dry it all out. Is it all completely ruined? what can we do next? how do we get rid of all that mould? What do you think?

Hi everybody. I've been searching for some input and advice on my MHRV system online, and noticed this very helpful site. My wife and I built our house about 5 years ago, and have a loft mounted Regavent Air Unit 600 DC R fitted, and it is this system that we're seeking some input and advice on. Having experience a few warm summers, and having finally read the manual in detail we have learnt more about what the standard 'Summer' mode actually does - namely switch the incoming air supply OFF to allow windows to be opened, rather than provide a bypass to the incoming air heat exchange. Fair enough. However, the ability to have cooler air (i.e. with no heat recovery active) distributed via the system is attractive, not least due to keeping noise, bugs and dust out in the evenings and nights. So, having also learnt that the bypass function was then, and is still now an option (which we would have likely chosen at the time had we been more aware), we're assessing whether this is a possibility to be fitted as an after market solution. The Regavent does not list this as being available as a retrofit - in fact the 'Shop' options do seem pretty limited, suggesting that the company wants to only sell components if they can be sold with a fitting option. Checking back on our old quotations, the bypass was listed as an option but was not costed - again suggesting that some components may have a variable price depending on the deal being struck. Appreciate if anyone on the forum has had any experience of having the bypass option added as an after market fit, either by having Regavent in, by purchasing the equipment themselves or even having a 3rd party system fitted. Many thanks.

Hi, I'm not entirely sure if this post belongs here but there are several components that I think I should consider as part of one solution: Heating and Hot Water. You may be familiar with my project from the introductions forum but I'll present you with my circumstances in any case. I currently have a Combi Boiler heating our traditionally constructed 2700sq.ft bungalow and providing hot water to 2 showers (right now we use 14000 kWh Electricity and 48907 kWh Gas per annum!). We will be updating the current building with thicker loft insulation and better windows, but will still use rads to heat this portion of the house when we complete the renovation. The new part of the house will add around 6000sq.ft and will be built to much better u values using ICF walls and SIPS roof. Here's where I'm confused, I don't know what the best system will be that can provide loads of hot water (7 showers), heat UFH in the new part and also heat the rads in the old part. I'm further confused by mhrv, I've heard this is a necessity in ICF homes, but then heard the speaker at the homebuilding show at NEC state that they're pointless for homes over a certain size. I'm open to installing an ASHP but I'm not sure whether it's necessary or even beneficial when I have the option of mains gas. Lastly, I've a good size roof pointing SE without any shading to speak of so we could potentially generate a considerable amount electricity, but I would have to consider the regulations of having a system over 4kWh and the costs associated, also factoring potential battery storage over and above Sunamp if this too makes sense to use. I don't have a clue where the feed in tariff comes in to all this! There will also be a detached annexe of around 800sq.ft and we will most likely go with UFH and 1 shower, I'm not sure how this should be incorporated in to the overall scheme or whether I should treat it separate. I know its probably a good idea to speak with an energy solutions firm and will most likely speak with Stratford Energy Solutions who have been recommended to me, however, I also know that they may have commercial interests that don't take in to account all of the factors we self builders consider.

Due to a "design issue" (AKA Cock Up!) I've ended up with a MHRV extract plenum in the shower area. From what I've read this is against best advise. Assume this is due to the levels of humidity in the ducting?? Is it an absolute "no" or in reality is it not too much of an issue. Moving it is not an option now but I could change the bathroom design but it would be a considerable compromise. TIA

Hi All Quick question: I've got two condensation drains to connect up from my heat battery and MHRV. Whats the best way to connect to the soil stack? Annoyingly the heat battery is a 15mm pipe outlet (from a 1/2" BSP connection) and the MVHR is 21.5mm overflow type plastic pipe. Even more annoyingly the heat battery has no form of trap. I think I'm going to have to create some form of homebrew connection. Perhaps using one of these to create the sealed outlet? https://www.monsterplumb.co.uk/hotun-hiflo-shield-white-black-RATech-HW100C-dry-trap-tundish?language=en&currency=GBP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI49O69a7F1QIViIePCh0cRwYhEAQYBCABEgIN3fD_BwE