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Showing results for tags 'lead'.
Found 5 results
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Hi, hoping for some advice reassurance please. We are adding an extension to the back and side of our solid wall 1920s house. After much deliberation we have decided on a pitch roof, I prefer the look of this and also we won't need planning consent. The architect has designed a 15 degree pitch, but we do not have room fot the recommended 150mm upstand due to 2 upstairs windows, however the architect has reassured us that the reduced upstand is still with the guidelines. We have had a couple of builders take a look at the whole of our plans so we have some reassurance that what we are doing is ok before the architect completes the building reg drawings. One has suggested that we may encounter problems with a reduced upstand, albeit within guidelines and is suggesting that we incorporate a gully tray. Not sure what this is but tried to Google. Can this be done on solid walls? What are people's thoughts? Thanks in advance.
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I have an old lead water pipe which I am looking to replace with MDPE. My supplier (Southern Water) state: "If you have lead pipes and you decide to replace these, we will also replace our part of the pipe that connects your pipe to our main (known as the communication pipe) free of charge if this is also lead" My part of this is to bring the MDPE to the boundary which in this case is the pavement. The question is could I bring the pipe to the gate shown in the image below by the blue arrow rather than use the existing shown by the red arrow? Would the water supplier then trench to the street stop cock? Clearly this assumes a trench dug to the correct depth etc. We're renovating the property and in future would make more sense to enter at this point as we are moving the boiler to the building on the right side of the gate.
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Mulling over water ducting issue. Can't duct to the boundary because our caravan is in the way, so can only duct up to the caravan (which will mean running the duct under our garage - slab to be poured shortly). To cut a long story short, at 8pm tonight we decided to test a theory - join some MDPE pipe onto our existing (not being used anymore, but only shut off at the boundary so could be opened again) lead pipe which runs from the boundary under the caravan. So we exposed the lead pipe and cut it in half to measure it. This lead to MDPE joint will hopefully do as the water supply for the new house, at least until we move the caravan (after we have moved in) and dig a pit to replace the lead bit back to the boundary boxes. Our question is how to connect MDPE (assume 32mm) to the lead pipe (internal diameter measured at 3/4'', outside diameter measured at 26.5mm which we think might be 6lb pipe (1 3/64'' outside diameter)? What sort of coupling could we use? Can't find anything "standard" in the usual builders merchants (online, tonight). I wish I could post a photo but its too damn dark outside now.
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I recently received the results back of a soil survey which I commisioned as a stipulation of planning acceptance. The survey repoort comes to >170 pages and I asked the surveyor to summarise whether there were any issues found. He said that there were no showstooppers, but that within the made ground there was asbestos detected in one sample and lead in another. Since this is a brownfield site and the plan is to demolish the house and build a basement as part of the new structure, I'm wondering what the implications of this are. Does anyone have experiience of problems like this? I'm wondering what cost / delay I may have to factor in.
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Hi all, me again looking for yet more of this wonderful forums collective knowledge. Weve got a dormer which is now going to be clad in horizontal timber cladding. So onto the frame will be a 25mm vertIcal batten and then the horizontal cladding. Its seems (from reading) that conventional wisdom is to slate the roof first with the appropriate front lead apron and soakers. Then add the timber cladding. However, the disadvantage to this plan is that I will need access across the slates to do the cladding which will risk damaging my 5mm thick nailed slates. I mentioned this this to a roofer I know today and he said (in something of a hurry as he was heading off to a job); "definitely clad it first, add a lead apron over the vertical battens, set off from the roofing battens (using a piece of timber) and then when you slate tuck your soakers under that apron". At the time that seemed to make sense. Now I've thought about it, I'm not really sure I understand the detailing Can anyone shed any light or suggest another way? A picture for clarity: Thanks
