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It's time to fit my hot and cold water pipes. I've decided on the manifold and plastic pipe approach. I like the idea of coloured pipe (red/blue). Which suppliers can you recommend please. Cheers Stuart

Hi just trying to decide if I should use 10mm Hep20 or 15mm Hep20 pipe to feed three radiators and four towel rails via a manifold. 10mm is much easier to run and turn etc. but when you look at the inside dia. compared to the 15mm especially with the insert in, the difference looks huge. Will it create too much resistance or be prone to noise and clogging. The runs will be circa 5-8 metres between manifold and rads. Would it be possible to mix the pipe dia on the same manifold. Have used 10mm pipe to the basins and 15mm to the kitchen sink on the potable runs. Finding the plumbing a little more confusing than anticipated!

So I have stripped out all the existing pipework, back to the incoming main, on my major renovation extension. I have an overall concept of what I am trying to do gleaned from reading this forum, but have many questions! Trying to make sure I am on the right track before buying all the kit. I have three bedrooms all with ensuite WC, basin and shower, one has a bath. Heating is UFH on ground and lower ground floor, radiator in each bedroom, and towel rail/radiator in each ensuite/bathroom. Downstairs also has a bathroom with shower, WC, basin. I have mains gas. so the concept is to have a new gas system boiler, an unvented cylinder and run UFH, heating and hot water, all from the tank. Is this how it works? The tank I am looking at is from AVChttps://www.acv.com/gb/professional/new_product/06627401-465/smart-e-plus-240#tabspace=unit&tabid=diagrams, and is a tank in tank system, so using the primary heating water as a buffer for the UFH and radiators. Using Hep20 from a manifold for hot and cold water, and run the upstairs radiators from another manifold upstairs. I know I need a double check valve and stop cock on the incoming main, and a PRV before the tank, the tank comes with a mixer valve. After that I am not sure what I need I have seen some on here use one large, valved, brass Hep20 manifold say in the utility room next to the boiler and tank, to feed everything, others have used sub manifolds for each room, using the much cheaper, plastic, non valved Hep20 manifolds. Is this purely to save money, I like the idea of being able to turn off individual consumers from the manifold, but unsure in real life how often this could happen, cost difference is considerable, but then it is a one off cost. Control wise I am planning on using Heatmiser Neo thermostats on each zone, and a Neohub and their wiring centre for the UFH and also for the radiator manifold circuits. Boiler was looking at Veissman Vitodan 200 series but unsure on sizing, these are available with weather compensation, but will this work with Heatmiser, how do they talk to each other? Was trying to find modulating thermostats but Heatmiser don't offer them. Also unsure on UVC sizing, as it appears I could run a smaller tank, 210 litres, if I have a large enough output boiler to reheat it fast enough, or is it better to have a larger tank, 300 litres and a smaller boiler, also have a solar array of 3.7KW so was hoping to use a diverter to an immersion in the tank for all excess solar. I apologise for so many questions, but feeling a bit overwhelmed by everything.

Just deciding on some aspects of my plumbing and will be using the manifold for my H&C system. Question I have is why have people chosen the manifold with isolation valves over the non isolation valve ones which are quite a bit cheaper? Is it just to be able to isolate individual pipes or is there something more to it? If I chose the non valve ones I could still put one isolation valve at the inlet which I know would isolate the entire manifold but that in itself would not be a problem. TIA