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Found 4 results

  1. Hello, I'm having kitchen extension built with a flat roof that will have a long 1.5m overhang. The roof will have GRP applied meaning an ugly GRP edge trim on top of the fascia. I would like the front of the roof to be completely flat like here: Is this possible without breaking any building regulations ? Any suggestions/recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  2. My erectors are currently building my SIPS roof on the ground in cassettes then they will lift single bigger sections onto the roof with the crane there - which is fine and I'm ok with. But they are fitting the roofing membrane on these sections (laid horizontally and lapped towards the top as it should be) and then will lap it over the adjacent cassette joining sections, with the required horizontal lap. I was questioning this being ok as then there are these vertical joins which albeit would be similar to if you finished a roll then starting the next but should I be worried about this, I have asked them and they say it's the norm for them. This has raised questions for me on the SIPS fascia detail which I need to move along quickly so roofers can start. See drawings below which I sketched up - I have a few queries I ned help with: It's slates mounted on battens then counter battens (the English way, but done in Scotland!). Gutter detail omitted for clarity, membrane not shown either but theoretically it laps over the eaves protector. 1)Does this detail look right? 2) Does the over fascia vent go above or below the eaves protector? (I've seen it shown below, but that wouldn't make sense in this instance as it would be venting that small space only) 3) If the roofing membrane is already laid - do I pull it up back up to the counter batten then stick the eaves protector underneath, or do I just tape on a new bit of membrane so the water can run onto the eaves protector? or just tape the eaves protector down to the membrane? any guidance appreciated
  3. My erectors are currently building my SIPS roof on the ground in cassettes then they will lift single bigger sections onto the roof with the crane there - which is fine and I'm ok with. But they are fitting the roofing membrane on these sections (laid horizontally and lapped towards the top as it should be) and then will lap it over the adjacent cassette joining sections, with the required horizontal lap. I was questioning this being ok as then there are these vertical joins which albeit would be similar to if you finished a roll then starting the next but should I be worried about this, I have asked them and they say it's the norm for them. This has raised questions for me on the SIPS fascia detail which I need to move along quickly so roofers can start. See drawings below which I sketched up - I have a few queries I ned help with: It's slates mounted on battens then counter battens (the English way, but done in Scotland!). Gutter detail omitted for clarity, membrane not shown either but theoretically it laps over the eaves protector. 1)Does this detail look right? 2) Does the over fascia vent go above or below the eaves protector? (I've seen it shown below, but that wouldn't make sense in this instance as it would be venting that small space only) 3) If the roofing membrane is already laid - do I pull it up back up to the counter batten then stick the eaves protector underneath, or do I just tape on a new bit of membrane so the water can run onto the eaves protector? or just tape the eaves protector down to the membrane? any guidance appreciated
  4. I had been hoping to obtain some planed larch for my fascia boards, but unfortunately this is proving tricky (BM will not get me the small quantity that I need). The rest of the house is to be clad in rough sawn larch, which I think will look a little too rustic for the fascias. The windows are alu-clad and the roof is to be steel. What are my options? PVCu is probably out of the question as it will look wrong, IMHO. I understand that aluminium is an option, but I have not obtained prices for this yet, and I have the feeling that it is designed to overclad a timber board. I did look for steel, as I thought it would work well if I could get it to match the finish on the roof sheets, but have not found any yet. What about dressed pine? I guess it would need a very good treatment system to give it any sort of useful lifespan. WBP ply? I have a vision of it going all wobbly between each rafter, but maybe it would be OK?
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