CharlieKLP

It depends on what the purpose your render is. If you just want to see it in 3d, go for fiverr. I’ve had some really good visuals from there. I wouldn’t recommend sketchup for the layman, it’s a pain to learn quickly. I think every practice in the U.K. has an architectural assistant that will knock you up something quick though, definitely get someone to do it for you! Pay a maximum of 200 pounds. If you want the level you see on estate agents, that’s usually £500 because they know how to use v-ray. V-ray makes it more realistic.

@Ferdinand makes good points. I think I’d still go “All Matters Reserved”, just with my knowledge of the self builders who I’ve worked with. I suppose it depends on the site, but maybe access is quite important, knowing the lake district. you need; Form, payment OS plan with a red boundary, 1:1250 Site plan with roof/footprint 1:200 I suppose, at a minimum. I don’t see why that would cost 4K, you can do the first one yourself then go to the design/planning service if you don’t get anywhere. You definitely don’t need an architect though, if it’s not a house for you.

It means like, “reserved for later”. Literally like the planners saying ‘I’ll reserve judgement on that’. it means you don’t have to sort it now. I agree it is a stupid phrase to use. whenever you get a planning application approval, even a full planning, you end up with ‘reserved matters’. Probably about 5-10 of these rule things, for example you will need to send off material samples for the planners to agree before you start building. so it doesn’t really matter, just make them all reserved, it won’t be your problem when whoever builds gets the land.

4K is so much! I didn’t think there was that much work in an outline planning application. It’s 3 drawings maximum. Do you have the OS plan downloaded (I use mapserve) already? I guess you just need someone with CAD to draw the boundary in and stick a house footprint on the site. You can keep all other matters reserved like appearance etc. maybe you need a flood report. If you want an architectural reference in your area, I know of Day Cummins https://day-cummins.co.uk/ They seemed like nice people there not too expensive, but it was a while ago I did work experience there.

I think you will be ok if it’s just trellis. I’d be happier using a steel portal frame, but if timber is ok then it’s likely ok! I think it looks really nice btw.

What is your external timber column made out of? Currently you usually need to use steel if it’s supporting any structure. I think this is a building warranty issue… so it makes it difficult to get mortgage and resell. Would that be an issue for you? I don’t think the timber will support a cantilever either as an option. I’m sorry this might be a bit of a bummer.

Well spotted. It looks a bit cack in places doesn’t it. Maybe it needs some rain on it so it washes off the marks, but the chimney ridge could be a bit better and the cracked tile certainly, replace. I don’t know what your part would be in this, are you a third party in the contract? I don’t suppose it matters too much, but you need to point it out to whoever is in charge. The builder does need to fix this. Check the flashing and tiling around the velux too. Just a little slice of tile. Is that ok to do? I’m not a roofer but I’d have thought they would cut off a larger tile so it wasn’t so small. I’ve seen worse roofs but it doesn’t hurt to keep an eye on them.

That looks so much better!

Oh yes that does make a lot more sense! I’ve been a part of developing a few similar wall build ups, so I know the difficulties. I might actually have worked on the episode you’re talking about but it was a while ago! We filled them with lambswool though. In hindsight should have been proper insulation. you can just make the block work as thick as you need for the wall can’t you? but you know, there’s no need to reinvent the wheel. Timber needs to be up on a block with a sole plate as the industry standard.

I did, I still don’t get why you are trying to do here. you need to have all of your timber above ground, on block. Your slab should also be higher than the ground. If you want a level threshold then I can get you a detail for that part. The board you are asking about is on my detail STS construction board. But really you need to sort out the wall frame and put it on block before you stick anything anywhere, and it doesn’t go underground. don’t you have some technician friends you can ask to help?

What did you use as inspiration for your detail there? Is that recommended by the people providing your wall cassette (what even is that). I assume you’re using a timber frame. Just make sure you’re using enough insulation to fulfil the new part L. I also think you might have a warranty problem. Shouldn’t it look something like this:

Re the look… I get it, but if you go super simple, you need something to give it some style too. I think I just hate crown roofs to be honest, I’ve mentioned it before on here.

Looks really nice! don’t worry about the architect snobbery, it’s good natured I think. I’d love to see your elevations when you have them!

@Thorfun you’re actually a genius! I read the article, instead of relying the (dull) people I work with to tell me and it’s right there The approved document also provides a list of ways to limit solar gains into a building that can be modelled, such as shutters, external blinds, or overhangs. Other ways it suggests limiting solar gains would be to alter the glazing design (size or G-Value), in the Building Design (Balconies), or through shading provided by surrounding buildings or landscapes. Residential buildings in high risk locations should also provide shading for east, south and west facing glazing by one of the following means: External Shutters with means of ventilation Glazing with a maximum G-Value of 0.4 and a minimum light transmittance of 0.7. Overhangs with 50 degrees altitude cut-off on due south-facing facades only. while most people are in the moderate location, it does seem like they will recognise shading methods. looks like your blind man knows what he’s doing and you’ll be fine, that’s a relief!

I do love louvres! I don’t see anywhere in the regs where you can mitigate the solar gains that way? I hope they do take that into account because it sucks and makes sense…

I really think you need a planning consultant’s help with proving the other sites you own aren’t acceptable at a minimum. There might be scope to do farmworker’s accommodation or even use some outbuildings to justify a dwelling that way. There’s lots of things you could do other than just fire applications at the council. I think a pre-app is a waste of effort usually.

have they said the site is acceptable in your previous officers report?

I’m quite surprised that there isn’t more fuss about it, as it’s going to mess a lot of plans up. Basically, you will probably need solar panels and ASHP, gas is increasingly difficult. The worst part for me, is the window situation. No more lovely big bi-folds and feature glazing. It’s a sad day. If you’re not already building you’re going to get hammered by this.

if they have had two full applications rejected, the rejection would usually say if a house in this site would be acceptable or not already. It will be in the officer’s report.

Yeah exactly. And why self build and then pick a house designed for someone else? Very good point. They are good as a starting point if you’re a bit lost, but that’s it. looking at the one you chose @Amateur bob, I think it’s quite cool but the weird thing about it is you need to go up and down some stairs to go from the hall to the living area! I think that’s quirky but it would annoy me if I’m honest. Although, good for getting your 5000 steps in.

You do know that Scotframe design you something to your requirements and budget don’t you? They do your planning drawings for you. You can continue throwing endless applications at this site, but you need some professional skills to help you get planning. If you are concerned about wasting money, this is the wrong way to go about it. You can’t just pick a catalogue house and try again and again… well, you can, but I’d recommend actually asking a professional about it first. sounds like it’s in the open countryside btw, I’m guessing you will struggle whatever house you pick.

scotframe would know if you asked them.

You could always ask a Planning Consultant to be on the safe side. When you say ‘there’s no reason’ how do you know?

or go to a timber frame company with a budget and say ‘design me something simple for this budget’. They will do your design and planning and your frame for you. some do the design for free even.

Just to correct something, maybe I misunderstood but if you hire an architect, it’s perfectly possible to tell them you’re designing on a budget and you want things to be as structurally sensible as possible. From my experience this saves money. I’ve also worked with timber frame companies and they charge the same for catalogue designs as new bespoke designs. Just use the in-house architects for free too.