Post and beam

Was it you post in the other thread that alerted us to this model? Cannot wait to hear what you think of it once its up and running. No response from my enquiry to them at lunch time today. Lets see what they say about availability

Agree, especially as my current live quote, see other thread, is £11500 + VAT + Installation for a Nibe 2040 and a 400 litre cylinder and not much else. I am not paying that.

After becoming aware of this product in a recent post in this folder i am considering using one. I have e mailed the company in Italy today asking about availability in the U.K If they are indeed a Viessmann product to all intents and purposes then i cannot think of a reason not to consider one.

Appleby 2-Gang Dry Lining Knockout Box 35mm | Back Boxes | Screwfix.com ?

Thanks for your interest. The Window supplier was provided by the house build company. They are local to each other and used to working together. From this i guess they know what each other is doing and that it therefore works. Its possible i have mis understood something but i am taking the vertical sizes directly from their quote.

Yes these are the heights. The glazing sizes are written seperately on the quote and these are slightly bigger so i take tyhem to be the overall dimension.

What does 'Ouch' mean dude?

Not totally sure what you expect but here goes dude. 1014 Bedroom windows 564 2036 front door side glazing 2058 Utility outside door 994 Dining room 1464 Living room front window 1164 Bedroom window

I have just looked at my quote for the windows which contains dimensions of the overall frame. Not one of the windows or doors is an exact multiple of 75. Therefore some kind of accomodation is implied. Therefore that accomodation can be made to suit an 80mm spacing. Have i oversimplified the thing or missed something.

The top of this looks different to the bottom half. Perhaps a trick of the light.

I did mean vertical and horizontal the same. It was the move away from the normal 75mm spacing that prompted my post. i know very little but enough to realise this is a potential issue. I do want the house to look old and it was a brick merchant that suggested the wider spacing.

Of course. Happy to take advice on the best option, thats why i am here. A different Bond pattern is something i have already looked at.

I should have twigged that one shouldn't i. Seeing as my handle is Post and Beam and thats the type of house i am hoping to build.

Whats P&B please

Its a Potton SIP's house. So timber frame essentially. If it turns out i am being indulgent and impractical i will have to re think.

I am learning that Brickies are used to using 10mm mortar thickness and even have tape measures calibrated to this. So, where i want to add to the olde worlde look of my potential build i would like to have a wider mortar line. Perhaps 15mm. This of course screws up the brickie's auto mode. For any brickies out there, is this a stupid idea? is it unusual and or impractical. I am also learning that window heights and distances from corners to , say, a window frame are often multiples of whole bricks using the 10mm spacing. Potentially making my idea even more eccentric that i hoped. Comments.

Yes, and the db numbers are not linear they are logarithmic. 3 db difference is twice the volume. For example 42db reduction is 4 times less noise getting through than 36db. The thing is our hearing is also not linear so that difference is not as obvious as you might imagine.

Thanks Dave. I am still learning about calculating the heat loss. I expect the house to be well insulated, U=.15 walls and .12 slab. Also found this in their spec' sheet ....Sloping ceiling (222mm rafter) 0.13 to 0.12 (dependent on rafter spacing) 2 layers 80mm Kingspan Kooltherm K107 and one layer 25mm Kingspan K107 Kooltherm. Cold roof (cold space above e.g plane roofs and eaves) 0.11 2 layers 200mm loft roll 40 Putting the elements together for an accurate assessment is beyond me at the moment.

Thats how this forum helps with rapid knowledge aquisition. Brilliant. Supplemental question then.... With regard to the pipe centres question. In my ignorance i imagined using close pipe centres ( 150-200mm) such that the water temp could remain low and thus not stress the heat pump. Keeping my living room at a southern softie 22 degree C for example

As per the title really guys and girls. As a novice to the whole subject but trying to learn at a rapid rate, what matters when you need to make a purchase descision? # Should you go for the smallest possible distance between centres of the UFH pipework. # What bore size of pipe # Pure water or glycol mix # The smallest Heat pump that will do the job or the largest you can afford # longest run of pipe before you hit issues # is a particular manifold pair better than any other. If so, why? That will do for todays homework Thanks in advance keith

As the OP, i say crack on guys. All discussion of this nature is good as every day is a school day. I am just about to create another post with a question that spins out of this anyway.

Hi Hugh No i did not. I was hoping there would be other manufcaturers, there. Perhaps at the NEC

My interest is trying to discover if this brand is reliable and viable for domestic use and also value for money. I have no interest in how to install one, thats what a competent installer is for and thats not me. I would engage somebody that i believe is trustworthy

I disagree of course.

I have no idea what that means