Post and beam

It was more a question about the OCD side of not getting it perfect, like having to use 2 pieces is a particular place rather than 1 large neat one because its just not possible to slide one large piece in. That kind of thing.

not getting a perfect fit when laying floor insulation. Or having to use smaller pieces to make up a space. Is it just me?

Thanks Nod. The Caberboard is glued to the joists below and 100% around on every mating side and screwed down. I cannot imagine its ever going to move.

Our new build has Caberboard 22mm fllor on the first floor. It is very flat and strong with zero bounce. I cannot see why i need anything under it before i tile it. Am i being an idiot or is this a simpe thing please?

O.K i get it now. Never heard of them by that name. Steel screen it will be then.

????? I looked at the suggestion above earlier today and thought that if its plastic it would not do the job. Stainless mesh is the way i think i will go having researched more this afternoon. Just need to find the best place to fix it inside the loft.

Our cold roof design is very 'open eaves' such that unless i do something substantial i think most of the local wildlife will come and live with us. What have you guys found to be the most effective barrier and where have you placed whatever it is you use please?

I would be suspicious of this bit. One because they cannot provide it and secondly because developers can apparently test one house and apply the figures globally to the rest of that type across the board. Are these 3 houses substantially the same design ? Might they have 'virtually' done your airtightness ?

From my TF supplier i have the following line..... 'External cladding as per details and in accordance with manufacturers recommendations' Ground floor is brick clad outside of Sips panels, first floor is Hardie board weatherboard. I believe the Hardie board is inherrently fire safe. So where the Hardie literature makes great claims about its fire safety , does this satisfy the line above 'External cladding......? I am trying to understand whether fire barriers are additionally required around the perimeter of the Hardie cladding. The brick work has ( will have) fire barriers.

Thank you, will check this out. And these

Thanks Nick, i will have a good look at these

My first thoughts are Mira Flight of some size. I need 2, one in main bathroom and one in En Suite. Are there any Brands to stay well clear of and Brands that you wise ones would recommend.

Thanks Marvin, much appreciated.

I need to make a penetration out through the Utility wall for the sink and washing machine waste water. Is there any regulation on the height above floor level it needs to be please?

This is what they look like freshly laid

Thanks, that all sounds very sensible.

Yes dude, secondary return loop for hot water. The pipe is insulated colour coded MLCP. I have been reading up quite a lot about it today. Due to the cost it adds to my first fix quote, posted here yesterday, i am minded to not bother.

What are the benefits, or reasons to avoid or include in my install please? What effect does this configuration have on efficiency. Thanks as always in advance for wise words

I sent a few requests for quote out via one of the usual aggregation sites last night. Lets see what i get back.

I do have a company lined up to do the ASHP & UFH . They dont do first fix though. The above price is only for the first fix pipework. The labour works out at 21 days @ 400/day

Good question well presented. Apologies. Edit to include cost

Hi Guys Can anyone provide a sanity check of my recently provided quote please. House is 200 sq metre , 2 storey, 4 bed bath & ensuite with a downstairs WC. Dishwasher in the Kitchen and washer and tumbly in the utility. There will be a manifold for UFH under the stair. Many thanks in advance EDIT: £12800 total inc Materials @ £4200 Soil pipes- Erect new soil pipe externally to feed upstairs bathroom- Install kitchen box pipe then extend up to en suite bathroom above terminating in boxing with AAV Cold main (Hep20)- Run cold main pipe work from utility to kitchen sink and to airing cupboard Hot and cold services (MLCP Pre insulated)- Run hot and cold services to each area needed including a secondary hot return (Run in MLCP)- Leave tails in airing cupboard Heating circuit (Hep20)- Run pipework for upstairs heating circuit for 7 radiators including towel rails (not including downstairs cloakroom?) Insulate all pipework- Leave tails in airing cupboard- Second fix radiators once ready supplying valves but not radiators themselves Primary flow and returns (Hep20)- Run flow and return pipework from under stairs to airing cupboard Bathrooms- 1st fix main bathroom, shower room and cloakroom-2nd fix once ready (customer supplying suite)- Tiling can be provided for extra charge* Kitchen/utility-1st fix areas 2nd fix once worktops installed

Bear in mind that the sample board doesn't look quite as Red as reality, but we paid £993/ thousand Ex Vat. I was happy with the price but 71p/brick as above would have been better of course.

We are currently a week away from having enough wall built to be able to show you a real world example of a Wienerberger brick if that helps. We chose it from the Bespokebrick company. https://bespokebrick.com/brick/olde-durban/ They are a Wienerberger product, marketed by others under whatever name seems best. I cannot see the exact same brick on the home site directly though. Described as a 'tumbled soft mud' brick.

Bugger. and thanks Nick as always. 75mm wet screed for us