Kelvin

What’s prompted her awareness is more about her attitude that water is a precious commodity rather than necessarily heating it as we’re on a borehole. What’s prompted that change in attitude is a neighbour down the hill from us has lost her water supply due to Iron Oxidising bacteria problem with her water source. She was about to sell her house which she obviously can’t until this is resolved and even then it might be difficult. But, yes I get the ‘stop going on’ reply too. 😂

Rather than heating more water we’ve been trying to reduce how much we use. Our showers can report on length of shower and amount of water used etc. My other half was averaging 10 min showers whereas I am less than half that. Since becoming aware of this she’s reduced her time in the shower by 3 minutes. Over a week it’s a huge amount of water.

Insulation is easy to understand at a basic level which generally is more is better (forget about diminishing returns for a moment) But that’s as much understanding your typical builder/trade has. Even then they don’t get the importance of fitting it correctly. Air tightness is almost other worldly to most of them alongside controlled and uncontrolled ventilation. I could tell from my conversations with whichever trades were on-site that they really didn’t understand it. The number of times I heard them saying ‘a hoose needs tae breathe’ Consequently I banned anyone on-site from drilling holes in anything.

I don’t have that many LED strips and those I do have are under cupboards with the driver easily accessible. The recessed LED in the kitchen was a little harder so I extended the cables through a flexible duct (cable tidy) and fitted the driver in the cupboard behind the kitchen behind a wall plate.

I suspect we don’t have all the facts

So this really a boundary dispute? I’m not sure why you are seeking the local authorities to enforce this. Your neighbour has trespassed onto your land and erected a fence. Take legal action to have it removed or accidentally drive a tractor into it.

No idea. However some questions for you. How involved have you been? Are you just an enthusiastic amateur DiYer or do you have any professional qualifications in the area?

It’s not just the settlement is the drying out. A new building holds a lot of moisture and can take a long time to dry out. I’ve read on here it can be a year or more. I caulked a door frame join using plenty of caulk and made a nice neat job of it. It was a waste of time as it cracked the full length of the join.

Exactly this. I even used flexible repair tape over the areas I knew would crack and they still cracked. While the temptation to repair them again is strong my intention is to leave it until the summer and do it then. We have very few cracks in the plaster generally though.

I’d have thought these pre-plumbed cylinders are hard to get wrong. Two zone systems are typical though albeit it’s more normal for it to be a large ground floor UFH zone and a smaller upstairs rad zone. This system is the other way around with a very large heat pump. It probably would have been better to have also used rads in the smaller zone snd run the whole system as one zone backed up with electric UFH. It might be better to just fit an electric wall mounted emitter and switch off the UFH in the kitchen assuming there’s wall space.

I have the same and I don’t recall any difficulties installing them. I added offcut noggins here and there to give me something to fix them to.

Ours is 170m3/hr and boosts to 25% above that when it detects the humidity is high. The boost speed isn’t particularly intrusive in the other rooms. Only the extract in the kitchen gets slightly louder and it clears the bathrooms very quickly. The shape of our humidity graph is similar to @JohnMo

I had something very similar in a bathroom at our previous house. Not a cathedral ceiling but quite a high ceiling with a large step that ran the full width of the room. Moisture was getting trapped in this area and sitting on the wall upstand. The extractor was on the lower part of the ceiling. I moved the extractor to the stepped bit and this solved the problem.

Excellent. I’m a bit like that too. Sometimes sleeping on stuff is the best way to fix it.

The cheaper end of their range don’t have them. It also comes with a warranty that should it not stop a leak they’ll cover the damage. However they also know that dishwashers rarely leak from the cold water inlet so they’re providing a feature you don’t really need and charging you more for it.