richo106

Hi We are starting are project in the next month or so and I am just planning our UFH layout, I have attached our UFH pipe layout from WUNDA Downstairs will be in screed on 200mm PIR with tiled floor, upstairs is on the triple aluminum spreader plates under 22mm T & G flooring and low tog carpet This will be fed using an ASHP I have some basic (daft questions) questions to help with my pipe/cable routes: Do both manifolds get fed directly off the hot water supply? so will i need to run a flow and return upstairs to the manifold? and then one to manifold downstairs? The downstairs manifold is in the plant room Do each zone thermostat get wired back to the manifold via the smart connection box? Are the thermostats normally located in the rooms next to the light switches? What cable is required for the thermostats? Installing UFH pipes on Pozi joists I won't be able to notch the joists, what is the best way to do this? Can i thread the pipes through the joists or is that not wise? Could you slot the 22 T & G flooring and then fix a thin metal plate over or would you feel that through the carpet? I am based in the Nottingham/Leics area, I am happy to install the pipe work etc but could anyone recommend an installer who would commission the system for me? All help advice/information greatly appreciated on this 1504453317_UFH-06561JakeRichardsonPIPELAYOUT-A1(142MainStreet).pdf

Thanks all for the reply We are happy with the windows we have chosen and I am guessing it will need to be a complete unit so might look slightly daft if the doors and windows either side don't match above/rest of the house Typically as well the colour we want/chosen for the windows and doors is called 'Claystone' which annoyingly hasn't got a RAL colour so hard to colour match I have attached our 2 options to show what i mean All help and advice appreciated

Hi All Is there a max height we can have for a front door, the way the architect has designed it. The window/door provider we have been speaking too says the max height is 2100 so we would need a panel above. Is there anywhere that does bespoke door sizes, approx 2.4m? Or is that not a thing? Many Thanks

That sounds exactly what it’s like to me! This will be our ‘forever’ home so i want to do it properly so I will be removing it. Thanks for the reply Would internal walls be built off this too or are they likely to have their own proper footings? I will be keeping 2 of the walls and building up from them as block walls to support roof structure Thanks again

Hi All We are starting our bungalow renovations in the next couple of months and currently ripping out. We currently have joists and floorboard suspended floor. The plan was to rip up and replace with new slab, 200mm insulation, ufh pipes and 50mm screed etc. However when I lifted some floor boards the void below varies from 170mm to 500mm (to top of blues) below the floorboards look likes there is a solid concrete floor/slab. What would people do in this situation, it seems a waste to rip it and start again but I am not sure what options I have. Obviously the slab underneath isn’t flat as it follows the slope of the ground and I don’t know how thick etc it is all help/advice/information greatly appreciated

Haha, the one quoted was smart visioglide plus. Could anyone recommend manufacturers they have used for their triple glazed sliding doors? Thanks again

Hi All I have been getting some quotes regarding our windows, doors and sliding doors The supplier has said that our 6m sliding door would have to be double glazed due to size and weight and was unsure if the gearing would take the weight. I just wondered if this is standard for a sliding door of this size? We are focussed on good energy efficiency/ air tightness but not passivehaus standard.

Hi All I am now in the process of deciding on what insulation to go with etc I was planning to have 200mm PIR under my screed but the general feeling is EPS is more cost effective so could be going for 300mm EPS. My question is jabfloor EPS70 suitable or does it need to be EPS100? my next query is cavity wall insulation, the cavity on the new extension/floor can only be 100mm wide. At the minute I am looking to use Celotex Thermaclass 21 90mm cavity wall insulation but is there any other options to consider? EPS platinum beads? many thanks

Hi I am planning our renovation starting in the next couple of months or so I started another topic regarding my new concrete floor make up, currently my property is joisted and floor boarded with a decent sized void beneath (need to take measurements once flooring is up) The planned make up is: 200mm Type 1 MOT 50mm Sand Blinding 150mm Concrete slab 200mm PIR insulation UFH Pipes 50mm Screed So total depth around 650mm, there is 2 DPM layers also Some comments and research have suggested their could be better ways to do this but i can't find a definitive answer I would really appreciate some advice/information and some potential floor make ups, We will be using wet UFH with ASHP for heating throughout Thanks in advance

Regarding the concrete slab thickness that was just specified by structural engineer, i was surprised they said 150mm The screed will liquid pumped screed is 50mm still too thin? Yes I am there is not much need to dig close to the existing walls, however the foundations are quite deep..9 bricks and 8in concrete base Another concern is that as the screed will only be 50mm over 200mm of PIR will this feel bouncy at all or will it feel solid? Planning to tile to whole ground potentially

I just thought slab insulation then screed for UFH was a standard practice

Thanks for this Conor, I have just been look at insulation and prices (off the internet) etc... My ground floor area is 120m2 so its either 42 sheets single layer or 84 sheets double layer. These are my findings: PIR 100mm * 2 (GA4100) - 84 sheets - £45.98 a sheet - Total: £3862.32 200mm * 1 (XR4200) - 42 sheets - £106.19 a sheet - Total: £4460 EPS - White - Jablite Jabfloor 70 300mm * 1 - 42 sheets - £66.01 a sheet - Total: £2772.42 200mm * 2 - 84 sheets - £44 a sheet - Total: £3696.56 EPS - Grey - Jablite Jabfloor 70 High Performance 300mm * 1 - 42 sheets - £108.50 a sheet - Total: £4557 200mm * 2 - 84 sheets - £72.33 a sheet - Total: £6076 I have done this and i am still non the wiser which way to go, suppose it depends how much needs to dug up below the floor or added to etc As always would welcome any advice/information on this from people with more experience than me is this Thanks again

Sorry yes there is going to be two DPM layers. What is the benefit of EPS over PIR? I am guessing cost. How much EPS would I need to match 200mm PIR, is there anywhere I could calculate this? Thanks again

Hi all We are putting a new concrete floor in our existing bungalow, the existing bungalow has a suspended joist/floorboard floor currently. The new floor make up is: 200mm Type 1 MOT 50mm Sand Blinding 150mm Concrete slab 200mm PIR insulation 50mm Screed So total depth around 650mm Due the slight incline in our land, one end of the bungalow is around 400mm deep below the floor but the other end is 800mm To make up the short fall of the depth can we simply add more MOT to build up the layer flat? so it leaves 450mm depth up to the top of the blues? All advice and information greatly appreciated Thanks

OK Thanks, so even if i install ducting my back fill has to be stone free around the ducting? Many Thanks

Hi All I am having to re-route my supply cable to the house to avoid the new extension etc I have had western power out and i have now dug the trench and got some 50mm ducting for them to pull the cable through when they come to do the work I have some of the electrical beware tape also My question is do i need to lay sand around the ducting or is that just if the cable wasn't ducting? Can i just back fill the trench with what i dug out? It goes in the middle of my gravel drive way which will be landscaped etc next year when the build is done, the cable is 500mm down so it wont be interferred with but I want to make sure its done properly Many Thanks

Yes they can vary quite a lot in depth, fortunately these are for upstairs bedrooms and landing area so not required to be fire rated which might help. Saying that most of them are generally fire rated now

Glad you said this, this was my original thinking. I will get the downlights before so I know exactly what size void I need to create Many Thanks

It’s in the footpath at the end of the my driveway. It’s definitely 32mm blue PVC pipe heading towards my property. But them must change to copper, i just need to find where that ia. Hopefully once I break the floor out I will have a better idea

Hi All I am planning my renovation project that it is hopefully starting in the next couple of months Currently my incoming water supply comes up through my kitchen floor (concrete slab) in 15mm copper to the stop tap The stop tap in the road is the blue pipe so there must be a joint where is changes to copper, is there anywhere normally this is done? The location of the incoming mains needs to be moved anyway, would people recommend to bring it in to the house in the blue plastic pipe? One more question where is normally the best place to bring the mains in, in the kitchen near the sink or into the plant room where the boiler/ASHP will be located? or does not really matter? Many Thanks

Hi All We are having a couple of vaulted ceilings and a flat ceiling area in our renovation project, SE has spec'd 175mm Joists Insulation has been spec'd to be 120mm PIR in between joists and then 50mm PIR backed plasterboard. What is the best method to install spot lights in this situation? All advice/information appreciated, I am a qualified electrician but never installed spots in PIR before and want to maintain insulation level etc Many Thanks

Will do. Thanks again

Oh right, so I wouldn’t need an external air kit with a fire 5kw or below. But if I went bigger I would just get an external air kit and none of these options would compromise on air tightness etc Thanks again

Thank you the reply, very helpful. We are definitely having tiled floor, still undecided whether to have brick chimney breast or plasterboard/plaster. Many Thanks

Hi all We are planning for our renovation that is starting in the next couple of months. We are not going for an eco house but we are focussing a lot on air tightness (aiming for 3) Our kitchen/diner (around 60m2 floor area) and we are planning to have an inset log burner with external air kit to maintain air tightness Is there a max size of fire we can have? I am sure I have read 5kW somewhere but I don’t know if I have just made that up. does the external air have to come from directly behind the fire through a duct/vent? does the inset log burner need to have a hearth? The chimney will be completely new so we can build/design whatever suits Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated Many Thanks