richo106

Yes I have spoke to Western Power (DNO) and they are sending me a site plan and I also have to arrange a site visit as it looks like it will need to be moved unfortunately...similar situation to ProDaves neighbour I'm guessing Thanks again

Hi All The garage is staying like it is (building wise) and in there is meter, CU and I am planning on leaving that like that It is currently in plastic conduit/pipe I was hoping to leave it in place as my previous dealings with utility companies are long winded and expensive It would left in the corner of the room in the electrical zones but was also planning and adding further mechanical protection Thanks again

Hi We are planning our extension and at the front of the house the incoming mains come up the wall and into the garage. I have attached a photo and floor plan of where is sits. Would people move this mains and re-route it? Or just leave the cable where it is? And batten the wall off so it’s behind the plasterboard? Any advice/information would be greatly appreciated many thanks

Going to go 5/6mm parge and the dot and dab. I have saved the photo showing the dabs and will be showing that my plasterers. I like the idea of wet plaster but I am struggling to people who do it without charging a ridiculous amount. So I think that option is the best for me at the minute. Build not starting till June/July so got plenty of time to change my mind yet

Thank you very much for all the replies, very helpful as usual!

Haha I am eagerly awaiting some replies to this

One other reason for the wet plaster options was to help with thermal mass, do you think this will make much of a difference? thanks again for all the replies very helpful!

Hi We are converting a bungalow (adding another floor) and aiming to get it as air tight as possible (aiming for 3/4) The internal walls will be block but I have been trying to research best way to achieve air tightness. These are: 1. Wet plaster - plasterer says time consuming and expensive 2. 5/6mm parge coat then dot and dab - this what plasterer recommends (best of both worlds) 3. Air tight membrane fixed to the wall with 25mm battens then PB screwed to battens 4. Another method that I have missed? Has anyone got any advice/experience on which method is best? Appreciate any feedback Many Thanks

Hi all We have our planning application refused on the ground that further bat surveys are required (between May and September) we knew this was the case and already have these booked in. My architect said submit with the preliminary survey and they normally grant it with conditions but they haven't and just refused it. They have confirmed that the house plans, size, shape etc are OK we are moving out end of the April anyway so I wanted to get started on ripping walls down, ceilings down, digging footings and hopefully getting the ground floor done. I won’t be touch the roof structure - trusses, tiles etc Is this ok or do I have to wait for planning permission to be granted before I can start this work? any advice/information greatly appreciated Many thanks

Midlands Between Nottingham & Leicester

Thank you very much for this reply, this sounds exactly like me in the terms of upping my original spec to make an ASHP worthwhile I am awaiting a couple of quotes from MCS certified installers How easy was it to get the government 5k grant? When would I need to apply for it? Many Thanks

Hi All We are planning to have an ASHP in our property that we are renovating/extending etc. I know the current scheme ends March 22 and I won't be installing my system to early 2023 at a guess The installer said that I can apply for the £5000 grant from the government for an ASHP I was just wondering is there any more schemes like the RHI in the pipeline or is it just the £5k grant Many Thanks

I asked the SE and they said they can amend joists to 400 centers but obviously will affect joist sizes

I have just been told by my builder that he thinks the SE has specified joists at a mixture of 300 and 600mm centres. I was planning on using the spreader plates but they all seem to be at 400 centres. Have i any other options to use spreader plates? plates that fix underneath the floor? Batten out the joists perpendicular using 25mm battens at 400 centres? And this could help with pipe routing with posi joists Would welcome any ideas thanks again

Building size is around 250m2 2 bathrooms both with a shower and bath

Hi I have received a quote for a MVHR system for my renovation project The 2 units they have quoted are: Vent Axia High Flow Zehnder Comboair Q600 I have no experience with MVHR at all so if any one could offer any opinions on this it would be greatly appreciated Many Thanks

I have just had my quote from Wunda and now asked for a pipe layout etc Do this lists below make sense and look like everything I need is included? Where it says number of loops, what does that actually mean (sorry for the daft question) The guy whos installing my heat pump says I will not need a mixer valve on the manifold as the heat pump controls the flow temp Any body used the wunda wireless control set up before? Are they as easy to set up/install as described? Any opinions/info on what I have provided will be very much appreciated

This was the reply from Wunda: ‘it is due to the pipe centres and heat outputs with spreader plates. And guarantee will be nil and void if it does not work correctly’ But if people on the forum have used this method before I am happy to go with their opinions

I have just spoken to Wunda about UFH on my first floor I was planning on using spreader plates under the T & G flooring and install acoustic insulation below However they have just replied saying that spreader plates are not suitable to use with ASHP and can only be used with boilers Has any body else come across this? Is there any other methods they could recommend? Many Thanks

Hi We are having UFH throughout are downstairs and planning on tiling the whole area. (120m2) Can I tile directly onto the liquid screed or do I need anything on there to help with expansion etc There is 4 rooms downstairs and will be on different zones heating wise, do the rooms need any kind of expansion gaps between the tiles incase they are different temperatures for any reason? Many Thanks

We are building on top our existing bungalow with 70mm cavity and the builder is going to step it out 15mm either way to create a 100mm cavity. Many Thanks

Hi I am in the stages of designing exactly what insulation etc I will be having in my extension/conversion. The max cavity width we can have on the extension is 100mm, I have spoken to an eco house builder and they suggested 90mm celotex thermaclass cavity insulation and then also instead of dot and dab they would use wet plaster instead to help with air tightness and thermal mass has anyone used the thermaclass insulation? is wet plaster better than dot and dab and how much more expensive is it? Thanks again

Upper floor, ground floor is new concrete slab with 200mm PIR

Hi all We are planning to install UFH throughout our property. We will be installing posi joists to aid with ducting for MVHR We are planning to use aluminium spreader plates, then 22mm T &G flooring, my question is how to get away with not notching the joists for the loops? Is Wunda the best place for a self builder to get plans and materials from for UFH? Many Thanks

Yes I would like to play different sources in each room, could reduce the zones and have say Alexa/Sonos in bedrooms The source would be coming from a mobile phone and would like to controlled off an app if possible. Just radio/music over the speakers