richo106

Thanks for all the replies/advice. I have had a quote to remove the old stuff and inject it will new eps beads http://polypearl.co.uk/cavity-wall-insulation/ has anyone got any experience with these? thanks again

Hi All We are planning to have a log burner in the kitchen/diner area. we are focussing on air tightness with MVHR so having a room sealed log burner. Does it need to be below 5kW? What is the minimum distance from log burner to inside of chimney? I have googled it and found 150mm so I have left 200mm to the block work to allow boarding and different size fire etc what is the best way to board /plaster inside the chimney I have attached a rough drawing and picture of what we are wanting to achieve. The log burners we have looked at are around 500mm wide Any advice/information very much appreciated

I am planning to install 50mm insulation backed plasterboard on the inside and BC was happy with this along with the blown insulation. But I would like to improve it where I can

Would be worthwhile getting it removed or just leaving it as it is? And maybe just pour some beads on top without squashing the blown insulation? would getting the old stuff removed and new EPS make a big difference in insulation wise?

Hi Our project is finally underway and we are keeping majority of the downstairs walls of our existing bungalow which we are converting to a house. The existing cavity will be open (before second floor goes on), it has some blown insulation in but it looks quite sporadic. My idea (could be a daft one) was to push all the existing blown fibre insulation down into the cavity the best I can and then pour in some EPS beads to fill the cavity Is this ok? Any other ideas? Can I buy just any EPS beads? Any advice/ideas greatly appreciated

Not yet, I have not ordered them yet. So will be making amendments to the lengths etc Thanks for the heads up

Having spoke to my SE, he has reviewed this beam and has now specified 203x133x25 UB Thanks again for all the replies

I did think of this method, obviously this would require more work and would have to ensure the fixings are really good. I was thinking if the joists are pointed up well by the builders and was thinking I could use air tight paint around the joist before I parge coat this would also make the strong back tricky

I am just going through our joists and beams etc... The SE spec'd an internal beam than spans a few walls inside as 254x102x25 UB However the posi joists have been spec'd at 225mm, the hangers that are coming with posi joists fit flush with bottom of the joists so the beam will protrude around 30mm What is the best way round this? Can I contact my SE and see if he could spec an alternative beam? I have attached the beam layout and highlighted the beam in question Any help on this would be very much appreciated

Good Morning The builders have finally started on our project and all being well will be up to first floor height in couple weeks (weather dependant) To help with times and cost I will be installing the joists along with my joiner mate The joists will be 225mm deep and the plan/layout (see attached) I have from the joist company is too drop the joists on the inner block work. Is this the best method to do this? We are focussing on air tightness also so was going to ask builders to point around the joists (I am happy to sort after aswell) but is there to consider when installing them? Daft question: - Do the builders leave a gap to drop them in or do I drop them all in first so they can brick around them? Are they heavy enough to stay square or do they need some kind of fixing? Would people wait until all steel beams in place or take measurements from the blues/drawings? The drawing is slightly wrong as the beam for bi fold is lower so joists will run on top of that? My only concern if we wait until everything in place then it will hold everything up 4 weeks while waiting for delivery Any advice/information greatly appreciated Cheers

Ok thanks, do you know if these are usually supplied by the window suppliers so they colour match? Many Thanks

Hi All We are just starting the build on my project and my question is how is the small roof above my new bay windows supported? The windows we are going for are flush casement. Do the bay windows have structural posts? Or do i need some framework going up? Any advice greatl appreciated Thanks again

Hi again I have spoken to a local fitter recommended to me, it’s looking very likely I will be going with him. He says he fits the panosonic mono aquarea T cap 12kw R32, he did say it might be slightly oversized but would make hardly any difference and would mean less stress on the ASHP Has anyone installed this ASHP, any reviews/information at all? Many Thanks Panasonic Mono Aquarea T cap 12kw

I have spoken to the guy who did my SAP for me and he didn't include that I had MVHR so he has altered that. As he has also done 2 examples one with air tightness of 3 and one with 7 It shows a good difference and the impact of air tightness 3 - CombineReports_007400_001_2022-10-24_13-27-34.pdf 7 - CombineReports_007400_001_2022-10-24_13-12-49.pdf

Yes I can do that I will just wait until I have an plastered shell, I can then accurately measure and get my SAP altered accordingly Testing throughout sounds good to me! Sorry to be a pain but I thought I seen a method for that somewhere on the forum. Is it just seal the door with an air blower and board and run the blower? what’s the best way to detect the leaks when the blower is running? thanks again for all the replies

https://coolenergyshop.com/collections/invertech/products/cool-energy-invertech-ivt9-air-source-heat-pump-ce-ivt9 This the one? Thanks again

https://www.theheatpumpwarehouse.co.uk/shop/heat-pumps/air-source-heat-pumps/mitsubishi/mitsubishi-8-5kw-r32-1ph-mono-ashp-uq-standalone/ Something like this? Would it be worth jumping up to the next size brack 10-12kW if I struggle to get the air tightness i want? Thanks again

Thanks for the comments so far, my one concern is that the SAP is calculated with me achieving an air tightness of 3. If this is not achieved I am guessing this will add more demand to the heat pump Cheers

Thank you

Hi, We are adding another floor to the existing bungalow to create a house. Does this help with building regs? Many Thanks

Hi All Naively I thought it would be quite easy to decide on what size and type of ASHP i needed, spoke to a few different contractors/sales teams and they have all said something different..ranging from 8.5kw, 11kw and the latest one was 16kw. Firstly my house is around 250m2 (125m2 floor area) it will be insulated quite well and have UFH both GF and 1st Floor. I will be focussed on air tightness (but not aiming for completely air tight but best i can with my building fabric) and will be having MHVR I have a full SAP done on my proposed house (attached), what information is the critical information that I need to be looking at that to make a decision on size, this is something i am complete novice in. My next dilemma is what make and type of ASHP. Either split or monobloc The brands that have been mention to me are Valliant, Mitsubishi Ecodan, Daikin Altherma 3, NIBE Any advice at all on this matter will be greatly appreciated CombineReports_007400_001_2022-02-04_07-35-42.pdf

Hi All We are installing flush casement windows in our project. We went to try and get it as air tight as possible. The window company are more than happy to use what I ask for when installing. I was thinking of putting the air tight tape on after installation (contega solido SL) What can be put on during installation? Would it be worthwhile specifying which foam I want them to use? Any recommendations on that? Many Thanks

Hi All In my renovation project I will be having a complete new concrete slab and the floor build up will be: 250mm Hardcore/Sand layer DPM 150mm Concrete 200mm PIR Insulation UFH Pipes 50mm Screed My question is whereabouts within this slab buildup is best to run services? This includes: Power to the kitchen island (going to put a duct in for it) Water supply (in new blue pipe) Happy to duct this also Another question would you expect to have A393 mesh in the 150mm concrete? All replies very much appreciated

Ducting sounds good to me, I have some lengths anyway which will be suitable. I will bury this in the hardcore. Will the builders seal the DPM around this duct? Am I ok to just bring it through the wall and concrete it in to seal it? Thanks again

House was built around 1960’s I will dig back and hopefully found it then. Would you run the new pipe under the new slab buried in the hardcore? (Floor make up: hardcore, 150mm slab, 200PIR and ufh/50mm screed with DPM’s etc) Do you protect it with anything? Just a hole in the wall then concrete round it? Many Thanks