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Thank @JSHarris 4 ordered FYI Salus are shipping are going to three new units from Germany, to see if that fixes the issue

I can find clip on pipe temperature gauges: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-120-C-PIPE-CLIP-ON-DIAL-THERMOMETER-TEMPERATURE-TEMP-GAUGE-SPRING-63MM/382782449575 But they are not practical for such a tight space, can you send a link to the temp gauges with remote probes you have found useful please

Attached a photo of one of the now unused units. A couple of clip on thermometers seems a neat idea to monitor the flow temperatures

I don't know for sure (I was one step removed from the ordering process) but it is a Wunda UFH manifold

Still having issues with these TB23030 units, now on a different circuit. Seems they can not cope with the floor temperature being a lot colder than the UFH input temp. It recently took more than 3 days to get one tiny 2x2m room from 14.5 degrees to 19 degrees as the TB23030 keeps clamping the heat flow valve shut and only allows 10-20 seconds of heat into the loop once in a while - so really drip feeding the heat. Raising an issue with their tech support now but we resorted to replacing two units already with simple JG actuator valves for one room already and I'm keen to do that for the next problem we are now experiencing issues with but not at my cost

Yes one of my two Sunamps has been replaced as I refused to accept the bulging case on the PCM58 unit as being good long term. Also one of the first controller units was incorrectly sent. Sunamp have been good at rectifying these issues in a timely manner.

Some of our LEDs have failed or started flashing. Probably 5% Crompton have been very good at replacing them under-warrenty

Thanks Jeremy, is that in the manual with the unit as I've not been able to find that instructions - well not in the 4 or 5 page very simple instructions that came with it. Could you kindly tell me where to look or post relevant bit. Thanks

Separate to the plasterboard vibration, the noise from the UFH pump is indeed loud and very annoying (to the point the other night it was a relief to have the dish washer running to mask the UFH pump noise). We have a GRUNDFOS UPM3 AUTO L running at 3 or 4 out of 5 capacity. Is the Wilo quieter than a Grundfos? It is not the pump that is loud but the vibrations it is setting up in the water/wall/mountings I think.

Thanks @JSHarris we do indeed have ours mounted with approx 1 metre length flexi hoses. And the concrete plinth it is sat on is not directly connected to the property wall. So it seems this ASHP vibration is coming through the water - is that possible?

That made me go check and in fact the vibration driving the resonance are coming from the ashp. It is about 3m away on the other side of the wall so I'm most surprised at that.

Converted a long barn to a holiday cottage, heating system all at one end and two long 28mm (I think) pipes run the half the length of the barn to the UFH manifold. All works ok and boxed in and hidden now behind plasterboard. But it is quite loud buzz for what is a nearly continuous noise and in the main living space. Where the two pipes go around a buttress they are forced to do a couple of 90 degree bends. If I put my hand on the plasterboard there I can feel the board buzzing and it also marginally dampens the noise. Are there any tips on how to reduce the plasterboard resonantation? (I've thought of drilling some holes and squirt some foam through but a quick Google does not indicate if this will work or not)

Seems to have stopped the funny smell with a much more water run through - presumably just hot/warm water sat in the plastic pipes and nothing to do with Sunamps

Thanks @JSHarris for the qucik reply.. The tech guys suggested they have a 20 minute calibration period and I'm seeing a sort of 'learning mode/self calibration' when they are first asked for heat, where the device opens all the way up (taking about a minute with LED flashing) and becomes very loose in the holder (since it has come off the manifold valve pin), then it closes up a bit. Do you see this on every heat request or have yours 'learnt' your system or are yours constantly on maintaining the temp difference? Also how tight have you installed them? As my plumber believes the actuators when in the off mode, are closing the manifold pin too hard so causing the pin to jam ( I thought I'd also seen that but now I'm not so sure now) and not open up when a call for heat is made, so currently they are installed a bit loose to stop the pin being rammed into the manifold hard.

Having trouble commissioning UFH system, consisting of a Wunda manifold and Salus Auto Balancing Actuators. I called up Salus tech department and they mentioned the units have a 20 minute calibration period but the support guy was unable to clarify if this is every time a call heat was made or just once (and if once how do you reset it). Nor did he know what the flashing LED meant. (I suspect it is merely a rebadged device, as he requested I send an email, which I will, that he will send to the designer who 'designs these for use all over the world'). Quicker to ask on BuildHub I suspect! So: Does anyone know if the Salus Auto Balancing Actuators do a calibration learn on every call for heat and if that is was the LED flashing (rather than steady) means?

(Not strictly a Energy Storage topic but this seems to be the Sunamp board so I've posted here) In our newly converted holiday cottage I have a pair of Sunamps, a PCM34 feeding a PCM58. The hot water when it arrives (after a long drag around the property, including via a hot water circulation pump that fires only when there is a need -a @Nickfromwales useful idea) at the bath or basin taps (not tried the kitchen sink) has a strange plastic smell. Anyone else having this odd plastic smell from their SA DHW? Yes the system is newish, sub 2000 litres of DHW been through it at a guess. Note the water is very aerated - can't see sink plug when initially filling hand basin with hot water but a minute after stopping hot tap water all is pretty much clear. Not sure if that makes issue worse. I lived in this village 30 out of my 50 years and the water has never smelt like this before and does not in my own house in the same village fed by the same water line, so I'm very confident it is not the water input supply.

Plus I bet nearly another £500 installing it. It needs a big hole and lots of gravel. Or less gravel if you prefer to dig two smaller holes. To be clear there is only a very slight aroma (a sweet smell) from the actual Clearfox vent pipe of you stick your nose within about an inch of it. And the output is a nearly clear liquid which is also pretty odourless. The more unpleasant odour seems to come from the sludge collection tank. Yet I can't identify where. My nose seems to adapt to the smell after a few sniffs making identifying the source hard in a nearly always breezy site. At the time of installation I was planning to live off-grid hence zero electric consumption was very important

Hi @Hastings My review after 18 months usage Pros: * quiet - very important to me as it is only 7m from our property * zero electric * zero servicing costs * potentially zero emptying costs -minimal sludge when I last measured it after 12 months usage * seems to work - nearly clear water exiting filter unit (I've been unable to find a reasonably priced test kit to verify this in detail) Cons: * Expensive to purchase * Expensive to install as massive system, so big hole = expensive kit needed to dig big hole and lots of expensive gravel to pack it back up * Quiet ugly with 3 lids and a chimney on show * do to lack of installation instructions from retailer I initially installed the sludge collection chamber the correct way round and then rang the retailer to check I'd got it right way round and he advised me I had got it wrong so I took the sludge collection chamber out and reversed it. It is now in the wrong way round! Lucklily all this means is that the sludge collection part of the sludge chamber is smaller than it should be but as I brought a big unit to allow for future expansion this is no issue. * biggest downside is the fact that since full enclosing the rest of the foul water system we sometimes get wafts of unpleasant smells - I'm unable to identify whether this is the pre-sludge chamber or just very complex air movements - I doubt it is the Clearfox itself. * the tiny rubber stops on the Clearfox trough have failed after 12 months - Clearfox themselves have advised they are only for noise dampening and are expected to wear out (so I've not bothered to pay £13 for a replacement pair) Summary * Good unit, best install a good distance away and ideally not in line of sight, big upfront costs

From Sunamp: "We have just received your question regarding the ErP rating of our products. Our UniQ range of thermal stores in all sizes (3, 6, 9 and 12kWh) are A+ rated in terms of heat storage thermal efficiency. This is valid for all units designed to be primarily charged from an external thermal source, whether they have an inbuilt back-up electrical element or not. The “e” range of UniQ products are physically identical to those with a back-up electric element inside, however as they are designed to be primarily charged from an electrical input the ErP rating is automatically downgraded by a couple of classes as the certification system does not distinguish where the electrical power is coming from (excess solar PV for instance). This is a nuance of the current ErP rating system, but please rest assured that your system is still performing from an efficiency and thermal loss point of view in exactly the same manner as the rest of the UniQ range." So A+ if you don't use the inbuilt heater it seems

So my new PCM58 has arrived (see for why I have a new one): And the new one has an energy efficiency sticker on it: Show only grade C - which is well below my expectation. Anyone know why it is given such a poor mark, I thought one of the key selling points was it was a super highly insulated way of storing heat.

A new replacement Sunamp PCM58 arrived yesterday ? yet to unbox though to see what is different

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123237080830

Apparently they are 220V DC led strips. Is 220v DC safe just encased in 1 or 2mm of clear plastic with connectors which appear just as a pair of nails?

Does the 50/90 issue effect both the PCM34 and PCM58?