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Beware this is very tedious Each window has 9 or more lubrication points, some hard to get too to be done every 6 months the manual says. I love the look of our internorm windows and the triple glazing is amazing for thermal and noise insulation but the whole point of the alu-glad solution was for low maintenance, so it is mega annoying the additional maintenance need to lubricate them so often and in so many places. Surely there is a better solution?

Electric toothbrush!

Ha ha. Well how many people do you know that have a temp sensor in their airing cupboard that they check on to see if the immersion tank is full of heat? I know one. Me! So yes I find the new Sunamp LEDs very useful/interesting. Whether my holiday cottage guests will be quite as interested as I am is another matter?!!

My understanding is the internal temp sensor some how creeps away from the heater element, so eventually causing too much heat to enter boiling the salty stuff.

Oh and the replacement unit has some useful LEDs so can now understand what the unit is actually doing - very useful

The 3 year old PCM58 failed in our farm's holiday cottage, spitting out its salt, a couple of weeks back. Called up Sunamp Ltd and within 10 days had a new one delivered, installed and working Steven McElhinney fully understood the need and actioned a response, working within my time frame so hot water ready for the next holiday cottage guests Very pleased.

200mm between roof trusses - can easily feel draft movement 100mm between floor joists between cold garage and heated office - feet get cold in office

I commission the unit and balanced it across the house but as the house is not that air tight the outside wind speed seems to impact the performance. I generally remove and wash the filters every 6-9 months, replace every 2 years. The heat transfer unit I wash maybe every 18 months (though never really get anything out of it). Because I find the running noise quiet annoying, at night I've set the unit to run very minimally (and we open the bedroom windows) so the vortices might be small at night. In my opinion there is a fair amount of cross flow leakage within the unit itself, almost as if the summer bypass unit works by relying on this cross flow leakage path. The manual says the fans should be cleaned as if it is expected they will get dirty. >what’s your pre-filter rating? Sorry I don't know.

5 years on, my thoughts are that spray foam insulation is expensive and fairly ineffective as an insulation product (maybe a side effect of it's breathability) I would not encourage anyone to use it.

Surrounding our Internorm tripe glazed windows is a black expanding foam strip. One window, facing NW, moss has started to grow Am a bit concerned about what is happening to the wood frame under the ali-clad Anyone else got this issue? Anyone tried to remove/kill it?

Just wondering since I last asked ( ) if anyone has found a neat way to clean the MVHR fan blades. Mine get a thin film of dust on them, which the manual says should be removed and I hope it will quieten it a little too. Paintbrush/toothbrush and hoover is my current method. Someone in the forum suggested a can of compressed air - anyone doing that/does it work? Many thanks Paul

Thanks @mjsx it is still ongoing and indeed is the source of waking up in the night 'thinking WTF did I use that builder'? We have had the chimneys rebuilt by another builder after lots of investigations and expensive reports, this seems to have made the situation better - with only minimal drips in the recent November storms. (It certainly has improved the log burner having removed the damp vermiculite).

Apart from physically cleaning the outside of the unit and checking for obvious muck on the fan blades is there any other servicing needed of this (or any other) ASHP?

That's interest. Very very rarely does the built in sensor kickin. My utility/clothes drying room is a long way from the Sentinel Kinetic MVHR, so I ran double pipe work, but often it feels 'steamy' to me but the boost does not kick in. For the wet rooms, have to manual kick the boost in, using a (long) momentary push of the boost switch (I have the unit in control mode 2 with the link install - I think)

Just to say about from a relay issue, the two Sunamps in our holiday cottage (with UFH & Triple Glazing) have worked fine and no complaints of a lack of hot water (from up to 6 guests). so still 'marry'

While it certainly gives Egger a get out, they seem unfazed and suggested their product will still be fine. Have to agree as three of the rooms where not exposed to extreme weather and yet still are suffering floor bounce/flex.

Sorry old photo, should have been more clear. I was trying to show lack of weep-holes on roof side

Further to: Both my stacks (above the lead apron) seem to gather considerable moisture (a separate thread). This moisture then exits via the above lead apron weep-holes and drains onto the bricks below the lead. The weep-holes are only on the gable ends (none on the roof side of the stacks). Question is it normal practice to have weep-holes on the gable ends rather than the roof side? I ask, as I'm wondering if the weep-holes had drained on to the roof, then the considerable moisture would be hit the non-porous tiles and be quickly removed via the guttering etc. Instead it appears to me that the moisture is feeding the bricks below the lead apron. Thanks Paul

Further to my builder is now this damp on condensation due to my late decision to insulate the attic. Can anyone recommend a condensation consultant/firm who via studying photos, drawings etc can advice if there is a chance condensation is the cause please? Happy to pay for a detailed report. Thanks

Odd my builder and the posi-joist manufacturer both are blaming the abuse the egger boards took from 6 months of bad weather as being the source of the floor movement/bounce. While Egger themselves remain adamant their product would be fine. (It did swell a tiny bit on a couple of exposed edges but that was about all)

Can this thread remain on the subject 'Floor bounce - PosiJoist Floor Vibration checks' please ? Many thanks Paul PS My floors seem worse as time passes or it is cold outside (not sure which)

3 years on, drawing combustion air from my ventilated under floor space works fine. If I was doing it again I'd make the vent a bit bigger, as although I made it 150% (I think) over sized. I wonder if the tight right angle I'm make the air flow go through is slightly limited draw

600mm posis standard spec - bloody awful for me really regret them.

The 'cross-talk' I put down to the internal leaks within the MVHR - there are plenty of routes for the stale air to be sucked into the fresh air feed within the device. Mine you havn't noticed it recently

3 litres since in 12 hours since 7am ?