Ferdinand

And just for the record, that squirly mark on the kitchen floor where someone missed a bit is on the camera. It's all Apple's fault. All the other marks match the tile pattern, but that one got through. ????

The other one is, though. *innocent face* But obviously, being me it is in the space sideways.

Do you perhaps want something practical and reusable rather than bespoke if the kitchen is being redone? This is what I have in the corner of my kitchen. It is an Ikea ‘mobile island’ with 2 lockable wheels and 2 legs, which is sized to fit snugly into a single 600 unit space and fit just below the worktop. Dimensions are 50x58cm on plan x85cm high. It has a couple of wicker baskets on it, which I think are also iKea. Not expensive, but not charity shop prices either. They do several sizes and versions of these, and you could repurpose it as a ‘trolley’, mobile workbench etc later. Looking at this page, it is probably a Bekvam which costs £40. This has been in my kitchen for at least 15 years. https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/cat/kitchen-islands-trolleys-10471/ There’s another one called a Forhoja (same page, get Bill and Ben to pronounce it for you in flobadob), which would fill both your unit spaces. that is 100 x 43 x 90, but the legs should be trimmable go under the worktop. That has a pair of biggish drawers (cutlery drawers). Another type of basket to look at are the IKEA ones for their Kallax grid-shelves, which are around 30cm x 30cm x 30cm where you can get a fairly floppy but useable fabric one for about £3 up to a nice wickerwork one for say £10-12. Bottom of this page for the varieties https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/search/products/?q=kallax (Yes I know you all hate the rug but it refuses to die. Bought from IKEA in 2000, and was so inexpensive that a spare was purchased. The spare is still wrapped up in the cupboard.) I think all of these can be ordered on line. probably flat pack. delivery charges but probably not outrageous. F

I have occasionally done things by going to visit the regional office near me - especially where I want to have particular things explained, and reference several docs. But I have not done LR stuff since 2017 or so, and COVID has affected it in god-knows-what ways. It all helps to short circuit the thing that always worry me most about LR - which is getting something not quite right on a form and being told much later to go back and start again.

I don't think so. Depending what you are doing it could be a couple of months to quite a lot of months. I have always found their helpline to be very informative, so a phone call may help you get to grips. If you really need to expedite it your solicitor may have access to their online 'trade' system and that may be quicker than doing it yourself with paper forms (if that is what you are doing).

We are all 21, in our heads.

Sorry. Latin Group 3 verb TYP-IRE - "typo, typiss, typit etc - to make a typo". "... covering what I perceive to be all the issues, and with details of all the kit I used ..." F

I can help there. Being the forum cheapskate, they are already in pots growing for a couple of years time. The aim is blueberries from late June to mid September, different foliage colours and varied flowers. There is also a box, a blackberry and my previously neglected Fuschia which is kindly giving me a new flush of flowers after I apologised to it and extracted it from its sulking corner behind the bamboo.

There are a couple of threads on the forum about different options. An aquatron is like a composting attach,ent on the end of a conventional system plumbing. It separates solids and liquids in a fixed spiral separator. Solids fall into a smell free worm composter which needs emptying every several years. Liquids go into a leach field or soakaway. we had ours about 30m from the house. very economical option.

if you are doing this I would say do a fan as a matter of course. I wrote a series of 6 posts about the conversion of my downstairs bathroom for my mum two years ago, covering what. Perceive t9 be all the issues that details of all the kit I used Here is the index article

My thoughts: ? Looking at the plan, I wonder whether it might be easier to just hinge the door the other way which would save hacking around with the frame - a 762mm door should hinge fine into 830mm. I would possibly put a "catch and hold" door holder-opener on it, like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07CLWN3CS/ For the loo, I think I would put it under the window facing along the bathroom, as even with the Sani Compact the 400mm clearance to the bath is still really tight - I think they like 750, and 510 is the required minimum (though no one is going to jump on you for it unless it is subject to rental regulation in one of the more tickboxy places). And I think I would fit a pedestal basin to give for leg clearance when sitting on the loo, and then a carefully chosen wall cabinet for storage. And perhaps a shower over the bath, plus a screen. Is there somewhere to hang a towel, and a radiator? (Might be an argument for outward-hinged door). How are you ventilating? One of my hobby horses is fans with a backdraft shutter. Ferdinand

@Mr Punter develops niche housing projects. Quite a lot of types of people on BH ? .

If you are on a slope, why not consider something like an Aquatron, which needs no power.

I'd agree that it is a more recognised problem, but I would argue that it is a change that is still becoming known. In another say 20 years it will be part of design practice, but the art of building develops slowly. One favourite quote I always liked: The answer to wrong use is not disuse, but right use. We still have people fitting trickle vents to solve condensation ? . And presumably other people still use concrete pointing. Pneumatic tyres were invented just after the Penny Black, but I still had childhood friends with solid tyres on their bikes, and I'm really young. Allegedly. I'm planning a deep loggia or arcade across the S side of my house (which is unfortunately the road side but I can't bodily move it across the road, 'cos there's a house fthere already) for sun sitting, and breakfast, for my blueberry grove, some solar panels on the roof, and to keep more sun out of my study and no 2 lounge to stop them badly overheating occasionally. I don't get a view of the Firth of Wotsit, however. F

One issue there is that you need to think about time factors in heating up and cooling down, and balance the amount of heat the house can hold with the rate at which it can get in or out. If you have a lot more thermal storage in the extra concrete inside your superinsulated airtight house, then the larger amount of stored heat will escape very slowly once it has built up - and you could have a high swing that eg stays high for a number of days 'cos your insulation is keeping it in. The total amount of heat moved by air is relatively small. So things like the "decrement delay" (which is a measure of how long heat takes to soak through your walls) become more important. If it takes (say) 12 or 16 hours, that means that it will be a long hot day before the inside starts heating up, and much of the heat can go back out of the walls outwards overnight, plus you can cross ventilate, stack ventilate or purge ventilate. Mine is *not* superinsulated, and in hots circs it can get uncomfortable by early to mid afternoon, so in a real heatwave (outside temp say 30C or more for several days) I need to have my skylights and a downstairs window or two open overnight, and have it all shut it all up before the sun comes out. One slightly unintuitive thing some here have found is that overheating through windows in highly insulated houses is that overheating can be more of a problem in spring / autumn than in summer. That is because we are used to doing things like brise soleil and similar things now, but even though the slanted sun in the spring / autumn is less intense, it circumvents the measures we think to put in for the summer sun by being lower. Ferdinand

Here are the guidelines from my water company. https://www.stwater.co.uk/content/dam/stw/stw_buildinganddeveloping/domestic-and-residential-fire-sprinklers-design-policy-and-guidance-final-v5.pdf

Most domestic systems just use mains pressures; you have a separate and larger pipe and the mains pressure does the job. I think you have 0.5bar and a big pipe. 90% of domestic fires only activate a single sprinkler. http://www.ultrasafe.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Water-Protocal-Doc-V2.pdf Talk to a respected local company for15 minutes, and they will give you the gen. It’s really not as exotic as it may sound. Some places (Wales) fit them by law in all new builds. F

And perhaps also a plan of your bathroom. I have had more success with compact basins than wcs, but there is a huge range available if you look hard. F

Welcome, @Mako. I'll sit this one out in my deckchair.

I would think it should but you would need to check the policy. But a sprinkler system will do about 95% less damage than the fire brigade, and accidental setting off is very rare. One of their main selling points is that fires get restricted to a single room, and they use relatively little water. Briefly, they have a separate mains supply and sometimes a tank in eg the loft, the sprinkler heads are concealed in the ceiling, and they detect a fire by having a link which melts when the air temperature reaches 60 degrees C or so and it drops down and turns on. Normally there would be a sprinkler head for every 3m x 3m area (ish). There is a separate water pipe system, and they do not need electricity. They do not use the same mechanism as smoke detectors, which usually use an optical sensor to see smoke, so are toast proof and should be woodburner proof unless it has started a fire and triggered the heat detector. There are also systems which use a water mist rather than a spray. You need very few of these, but they tend to cost a lot of money for each one. They are not normally linked (ie Hollywood is lying about the hero setting a fire in a waste basket to flood the entire building and kill all the zombies with 784 sprinklers going off at once). Hollywood, lying. My faith is shattered - it even happens in Spongebob Squarepants.

A Ha-ha would help there...

Aha - the one with the services going through the eye of a needle. ? Had not twigged to your other question. F

Yes - that can be done. The quality of the pointing will be poorer, but it is possible if there are a few inches of space. I'm not wanting to open a debate, but if your neighbour's structures are well away from your new side wall might it be worth offering to buy a strip of land - say 1.2m or 2m? It would cost a fair amount, but would make it easier to build more neatly and more maintainable, and may even gain support if he is going to get a few thousand out of it. Just a thought. Ferdinand

On your last post have you considered trimming the sides of the end with a bit of skirting a bit of windowboard? You could have the bullnose at the front or top, and it would neatly flll your 2 inches of extra length, and finish it off visually. If you don't want to do that you could use a couple of pieces of 1 x 1 with quadrant or another trim on top. It's very Ferdinand to have a thing to fill that is 2 inches longer than the standard timber size ?.

You can build it without any access to next door and anyone or anything touching their fence, can’t you? Or you will need to negotiate access.