Marvin

Hi @nod I assume you would remove existing plaster first?

Thanks for your thoughts @Redbeard and @nod

Please can you tell me what the best way is to approach insulating an old 2 up 2 down solid brick wall house external walls. Slap a coat of PIR on the plaster? Seal the wall first? Batten out? Strip plaster? Insulated plasterboard? Help, thoughts appreciated. Thanks Marvin

Yeah. Until the earth is warm enough nothing happens. But get ready this week!!

Interesting. There are several searchable technical trials on compost used to produce energy (mainly heat) from a small scale to an industrial scale. Reading the results and conclusions give a good general understanding of how to get the best for my garden. Made quite a lot of compost and tried several versions over the years. From what I understand, basically the rotating bins help air flow and uniform decomposition. If you start with understanding that in order for the breakdown of the vegetation you need the right temperature, humidity, aeration and fresh waste at start, all the rest is easy. The main difference with the rotating ones, with or without insulation, seems to me to be to effect speedy and uniform results. What system/apparatus would be best for you would depend entirely on the supply you have, what outcome you want and when you want it (slow or fast breakdown). After many trials I use a jumbo bag method. (All food waste goes in the worm bin). I shred all my garden waste (and some of the neighbours) that's woody and mix the various types either together or in thin layers in the bag. (no evergreen). Because it's so big it holds the temperature in the middle so no particular need for insulation. When it comes time to take it out I grade the result: good stuff one side, un-rotted back in a different jumbo bag to sit for a year because once the bacteria is dead (too cold/hot/dry/wet/no oxygen) you're back to rotting it the slow way. To check the temperature I use one of these: cooking well even after a cool night... In this bag I put a layer of 2 inch old wood chippings in the bottom to help with drainage. Filled 6 of these last year: all gone on the garden. You should never need to dispose of any garden waste apart from thick wood!

Hi @JackofAll You haven't indicated how you intend to heat water. I assume a instant hot water system and it will need a pressure limiter anyway. However in general a water pressure limiter will protect your home from excessive pressure which over time can wear out equipment, cause some loos to be very noisy when filling, protect water softeners, allow a more regularised supply when more than one tap, loo, shower or machine is using water at the same time. I usually connect them right after the supply to any outside taps.

Hi @JackofAll Personally I would use a pressure reducing valve set at about 3 bar fixed on the incoming main. Depending on how far you are away from the supply during the summer the pressure can drop significantly. But its not just the pressure its actually the flow rate that you should worry about. Test this by using the first tap from the mains: Put a big bucket under the tap. Turn the tap full on and count how long it takes to fill the bucket and then turn tap off. Measure the water in the bucket so you know how many litres are in it. Divide the litres by the amount of seconds it took to fill the bucket and times the result by 60. This will be the amount of water that will enter the house system per minute. As an example a typical shower will use between 12 and 16 litres a minute. What will happen: If you have 2 showers on at the same time in the house you will need a supply of 24 to 32 litres per minute otherwise the showers will dribble. Bear in mind the kitchen tap on and off loos flushed, washing machines and dishwasher possibly using water whilst showering. Good luck M

Shame. Easily available: lead sealant in lead colour.

Yes. if anything, I prefer to see a mister system....

Yup. You'll know for sure doing this...

A must.

Hi @G and J This is a fluid question. The GU10s have gone up and down in price. The range of choices is now so big as to require a spread sheet to list them. Different makers produce different qualities with different designs with different materials. Different installations with different temperature extremes, being turned on and off more or less frequently. The list goes on and on. You can buy them for 79 pence each now. The first ones I bought cost 3.75 each. You can also pay £7.99 for 1 thingy. I have clients who have had the same GU10's for over 20 years without replacing one (these were all glass domed ones). I had one client where the same bulbs kept blowing. I put it down to the poorly built cold flat roof allowing a breeze to blow through...

Interesting. We have multiple GU10 brands, some different wattages with different brightness and angles. Some get hotter than others and I think this is a factor. Also I seem to remember reading that ceramic domed ones are better in regard to heat problems. We have about 50 installed. Some have so far lasted 8 years with high use. WE mainly use GU10 4W 120 degree warm, cool, or daylight. @NickfromwalesDid you see how I managed not to mention Bulbs? 🤬 I just mentioned them.

Hi @Pocster Er... No one wants to look at your photos in case their of, or eluding to, an abnormal anatomical subject matter. Especially when you write about gel. M

I have not done this. However I wouldn't do this. Pipes in trenches in the ground are a big heat loss thing especially over that distance. Yes it can be done but you will be paying a lot more for heating and hot water forever... I saw one once. The concrete path above the pipes melted the snow, and the rain water flowing around the pipes absorbed heat before flowing away. It would have been better to lay them in a swimming pool. Outside temperature effects ground temperature significantly in the first meter so on very cold days the ground around the pipes will be colder... Protecting boiler and pipes from freezing will be achieved by running the boiler during the day and night or antifreeze?? Humidity effects the electrical side of a boiler and components. I wouldn't do this either, but it would be better off in the loft if you have one suitable. The best place is inside the building thermal envelope. Other's may have other opinions Good luck M