Marvin

Hi @Sam45 Yes there are many choices of this type of wall called retaining walls. Its worth searching "retaining wall design" and go to images. You will see there are many designs. You may also see solid brick walls that get wider the deeper they go... Designs that allow for drainage either through weep holes or drainage to foundations or back filled with drainage material depending on the soil type, slope and existing drainage ground water levels and so on are also indicated. As you say the wall needs to be attached to the base, however, again, there are many choices but basically, depending on the design the bigger the heel or toe of the foundations the less chance of failure. Whilst the mix of views may seem confusing, the answer, as always is in the maths and someone competent to calculate it and come up with the design that will achieve it. @Mr Punter, @Conor, @ProDave, @Redbeard and @Iceverge have all come up with good information. I wonder when the neighbours paving was completed and if the sloping land was levelled at the time bringing the earth higher on the failed wall. Any builder would know that the wall without backing would fail.... Best of Luck Marvin

Hi @Sam45 In my humble opinion, I would not go for a two wall design. If you did, the only thing holding the wall up would be the strength of the strongest designed wall. The other wall would only be for show. The ones I have build retaining the high ground to about 3 feet high have the wall becoming thicker on the ground side the further below the level of the high ground it goes. As @ProDave comments, the best design is for the thickening of the wall to be under your neighbours ground.

The problem with the waste, in my humble opinion, is that the solvent weld vertical pipe is too short. What with the short length of pipe catching the fitting and the vibrations from the flexible grey waste pipe its going to fail. Another thing I do is dry off the sink first downpipe, and all the bits in the compression end of the junction pipe that grasp the top pipe, and silicone the parts, fit together and hold in position for 48 hours by propping. However, I still would not do this without lengthening the vertical solvent weld pipe. Good luck Marvin

Yup cooler air drawn from the north side, through the bungalow.

Hi @GNB88 There are a few who have done what you are doing, definitely in Scotland. As some? rules are different in Scotland from England make sure you point this out when posting. M

Hi @KevH Welcome. What sort of garden are you thinking of having? M.

We find when its really hot the sun is out so we use a mobile air conditioner which has a heat pump. It doesn't do the whole building but then we tend not to be in most of the rooms.

One of the best savings is achieved by insulating the hot water tank within an inch of its life not just the 2 inches of foam around it.

Hi @ReedRichards Yes we have similar. We don't do many miles but we must have spent a total of about £100 over the last 2 years buying electricity for the EV. We use the 13amp charger and leave the vehicle plugged in when home and it only charges when the PV produces over 3.5kW. Of course this wouldn't work if the car was parked at work all day...

Hi @LSB Renovated an existing bungalow converting the garage but added a rear extension. Involved a bit of labour to help now and then otherwise definitely self build.

This is what we do. The outlet from the cooker hood which is above a kitchen unit also directs the exhaust towards the extraction point in the kitchen of the MVHR. However I think it depends what sort of cooking and how much you are doing as to the effectiveness of this. The extractor hood does not take the temperature or humidity away and collects grease....

Hi @nod As it's a two story building do you have to run the tanking up the walls between the ground floor ceilings and the first floor flooring? (if so presumably by removing some of the ceiling board or flooring or both??)

Hi @nod I assume you would remove existing plaster first?

Thanks for your thoughts @Redbeard and @nod

Please can you tell me what the best way is to approach insulating an old 2 up 2 down solid brick wall house external walls. Slap a coat of PIR on the plaster? Seal the wall first? Batten out? Strip plaster? Insulated plasterboard? Help, thoughts appreciated. Thanks Marvin