Marvin

Hi @JohnMo Yes, need good insulation in narrow space so using PIR. Studs existing. breather on outside. True still thinking about 25mm PIR on inside.

Hi @Redbeard thanks for this Yes on the inside I am adding 25mm over the joists, then the VCL then the Fireboard. Forgot to say this is for a garden room walls. Hi @Mr Punter Thanks for the info.

Thanks @JohnMo I was also thinking about the dew point. I didn't know which way was best to instal them PIR to the outside and glass wool inside or vice versa.

I have a timber frame that I want insulate which varies in thickness from about 118mm to 155mm I was thinking of using 100mm PIR and loft insulation to fill the gap. Which is best: Outside surface, 100 PIR loft insulation Inside surface. or Outside surface loft insulation, 100 PIR inside surface.

Hi @MorganP This is a classic: Never have the cable going in at the top of the pump! The 4 Allan key bolts allow the motor housing to be rotated to any of the 4 sides and best if the cable inlet is at the bottom, BUT ONLY with the system drained or the pump isolated. I haven't read all the info here... Have you bled the pump?

I have never seen a green roof that falls towards a higher side of a building. I would try to find another way. At least falling away from the building and altering the drainage. It's even more of a concern when you consider that all the rain from the house roof in that area will also be draining there.

You couldn't think of anything simpler to explain then? 😂

This how my system is set and yes it heats up until the tank thermostat reaches the temperature set.

Hi @evekell A quick check to see if the bottom door seal is working is to pour a small amount of cold water on the outside of the door when it is closed and see if it goes into the house. I have done this with ours before now by using a COLD kettle and pouring a trickle about a foot from the bottom of the door, onto the door and frame, across the entire width of the door from the frame one side to the other. If the bottom seal is damaged it will leak If the door has been raised in the frame too high it will leave a gap between the bottom of the door and the seal and leak. This is a simple and easy thing to cross off the list of potential problems before doing any serious work. Good luck M

Hi @SteamyTea No smart meter. Energy used by ASHP goes through a separate meter first which only logs amount used. PV is already monitored to turn things on and off with CT clamps measuring the power to the grid. Extremely rare to supply power to the grid in winter even if PV working at full capacity. The Watt/hour level only peaks when doing serious cooking. Home background level is about 600w ASHP is in weather compensated mode and I wanted to see if the hot water is still adequate in lower temperatures.

Hi @SteamyTea Hope your well... This is the start of a test I am trying to do during the winter as this is the high use period. The heating is programmed to be on permanently and will be on until the spring (a few degrees lower in the night but still on) The hot water is programmed to come on when the tank temperature is below the 'on' until above the 'off' levels. the spread being 5.5°C, However I will stop that happening on occasions (when the outside temperature is lower than today, with no sunlight) to see what happens. You have made me think about it and I will record where the hot water temperature starts from in case it is below the level of 'demand' when it starts. Other poster had been discussing what happened to the house temperature when the heat is diverted to heating up the hot tank. I realised this would be affected by the outside and inside environment and decided to record the result when possible.

19/10/2025 8.30 am test: House temperature when heating hot water: During this test no major actions in the home were happening that would effect the results. Outside Temperature 11°C Weather no sun/raining/25mph wind - gusts to 30mph. Home temp 22.7. Hot water tank 205 litres Buffer tank 36°C Hot water starts calling The difference between hot water demand turn on and turn off is a rise of 5.5°C Hot water reaches temperature in 35 mins Home temp after hot water demand is 22.7°C Buffer tank 35.3°C Home temperature during 30 minutes after hot water heating finished stayed at 22.7°C In my opinion the time taken to bring the hot water tank up to temperature is suitable in duration (we are using low fan speed) and does not materially effect the home temperature when the outside temperature is 11°C.

Hi @JohnMo and @HughF Thanks for your thoughts. Yes I have lifted the sensor temperature to 42 degrees. However this is not the temperature of the water in the majority of the tank because of the sensor positioning. Reasonable hot water temperature and consumption in this bungalow. Thanks for your concern. Definitely over 45 degrees in majority of the tank when set at 42 and over 60 once a month.

This is the sort of thing that is my aim. I just need to adjust the ASHP controller to the right settings.

I cannot find the hot water set points so have adjusted the temperatures in the weather compensation section. M