saveasteading

CSCS cards provide proof that individuals working on construction sites have the appropriate training and qualifications for the job they do on site. Well, cscs would say that. But it is no true. It only means you got a card. Nobody in my company was required to have one, and no client ever asked. i looked through a training book for a test, and some questions were laughable. It shocked me that our apprentice struggled with some of it though. Hired a forklift driver through an agency once, who had a card for a telehandler. He couldn't operate it and we sent him home and the digger driver (no card) had to unload our deliveries.

Wandering slightly off subject....I really dislike how developers name their estates after what they have destroyed. The Orchard etc.

Thanks. I've seen the matting at tops and assumed it was for problem concrete. That looks easy enough to glue to the chipboard. Strangely topps seem to have 3 different products doing much the same. Same sort of price as hardiebacker /m2. It is also recommended for ufh screeds which seems counterproductive....why add an insulating layer? I have loads of tiling straight onto concrete, with no issues...as long as it is old perhaps.

There is actually no legal requirement for them on any site I knew that, but was underplaying. I'd be interested to know where you got that idea @craig

That makes a huge difference. Giving up paid work to manage a self-build is a big deal. The rewards can be great though, on many levels.

When you are talking about the project, what do you call it?

And, sorry to sound negative, if there is any dispute, then your diary is an important reminder of what was going on and evidence if it gets heavy. I asked a lawyer why someone couldn't fiddle a backdated note. He explained that it is surprisingly easy to prove, and the result is jail. We worked all day: you left at 3. We made it work; no that was me. A good diary can be worth thousands.

None of us did at first. You have 2 choices: learn a lot about building or hand it to experts and pay them well. We are here to help of course.

We have 3 areas of upper floor to be tiled for en-suites? They are t&g chipboard screwed to timber joists. Concerned that cracks may form at joints and that chipboard is itself suitable as a tile substrate. We are thinking of Wedi board or Hardiebacker as a waterproof material that will also prevent cracking. Expensive though. The joists are substantial and don't appear to bend or bounce at all Any advice please?

?. On self build? I have put in and repaired a few when fitters were not available. They all had separate glass which aids weight handling but is another issue re fit. That was when I found out that aluminium doors absolutely depend on the glass for strength. I take 4 times as long as the pros. Bear in mind that measuring isn't as easy as you might think, and it is your problem if you DIY. Lesser window fitters add lots of tolerance and mastic. Good ones get it just right.

Should have added. Our groundworker found it easy but hadn't a clue. Testing for this before engaging a contractor is tricky. References aren't necessarily guarantees either...they were nice and the building hasn't fallen down or cracked (yet).

There are lots of good people out there. Also plenty who aren't so good and don't give the best service because of a skill shortage. It must be very diificult to judge as a first yimer, when not from the so called industry. Our family team were quite shocked when I said we must confront the SE to save £20k, and sack the groundworkers. The former had a perfectly reasonable principal who accepted my alternative, but our assigned guy was not happy to be questioned. The groundworker, whose main skill was charm, turned nasty, but went eventually, and the family carried on and finished it. Slab &drainage. But neither of these were possible to first timers, and I can see how problems and costs mount. Thats prob why most of us on here want to help. A few words can save a lot of money and pressure.

Roofing. I was taken with the kind that is painted on to a fg scrim, and becomes a 2mm, totally flexible surface without any joints. It comes in tins and is brushed on. Looked ideal for DIY and esp on flat roofs. But it doesn't appear to have been widely adopted. Whether it is flawed or has been squeezed out by the competition I don't know. Basic Electrics is easy enough, and few sparkies seem to really understand the more complex aspects anyway. But you do need an expert overview and sign-off.

Try a steel portal made of lightweight steel, rolled galvanised sections as the primary steel. @Gus Potteris a bit of an expert on them. I used the principle only once, and found that the saving in structure cost was equalled out by extra labour. But that was with a super steel erecting team. For DIY or just a builder that could change because it is all more manageable. If you need it to be heavily insulated then perhaps icf. If it needs solid walls then trad or icf. For cheapest use timber shed type, but won't last so long and not very high. For best value open space, with height: steel throughout.

Virtual hearts to all the above. Decide what is essential now, and do it full quality, once and for all. Decide what you don't need to function right now, and postone it. That could be empty rooms. You can leave boarding off, even flooring if you shut the door. That may leave some gaps where a temp solution will suffice. Eg a basic kitchen One bath / shower room These can be fitted out at a fraction of your likely budget. A toilet suite to basic standards is remarkably cheap. I think i saw £80 for wc and basin, with fittings. Buy cheap carpet and fit it temporaily. £60 will do a room. Remnants are not usually the best vslue when allowing for waste. If you miscut it, double sided tape sorts it. Throw out next year. That will not be ideal, but wins time and you have some comfort.

I once looked at a tender document where the client's architect had appointed 12 more consultants. One was 'hard landscaping' where they skilfully suggested tarmac, gravel and block paving. Bats, newrs etc if course. The main building design , the bit the architect did, was barely competent which is why it was double the budget. I'm thinking it would have cost 100k for fees pre tender.

100m2 of closely cut lawn Keep it cut. Depending on how stroppy you want to be, you might just find another consultant who will say all is OK. They exist. Their attitude is more that we do our best and let nature sort itself out. Planners will accept an alternative view. The trouble us when they come recommended by the council. Not dodgy, just too cosy.

I have strongly implied, when inheriting planning permission with reports already done, that it is not proper that a consultant deems that they supervise another survey and mitigation and the construction.... And here is our counter proposal. One council had a realistic policy that newts, if any, would all be in ponds between (can't remember) and so any site clearance must be then. Other councils just demand surveys and barriers and exporting thr newts.

You will learn a lot and get a certificate. Whether that makes you a skilled roofer is another matter. Not saying don't do it, but allow for learning more before and on the job. I assume you have some building skills already. Don't assume that you are saving £20k. Other jobs you can learn and do? Depends so much on your abilities, head for heights, stamina, boredom threshold, strength and endurance, coordination. I would say you cannot learn enough about bricklaying, heating, electrics so don't consider them. Yes painting and flooring. Allow for some errors. the university of Youtube will help. Groundworks, foundations, drainage? Some find it easy enough and some never will. Timber structure No, but inner studs and insulation etc maybe. Do though study every subject and do quality control, as the trades might not care as much as you do.

I don't know enough about your specifics, or the stage you are at, but I (in business) developed a process to avoid such expensive reports by others. If there was asbestos on the roof, then our proposal says that we know there is asbestos, and this is how it will be dealt with. We know there are newts, and this is how we will deal with them. We know there may be archaeology but our design won't disturb it because...etc. Eg, for newts we advised clients to keep grass short (you are allowed to mow them to sludge) and arranged that site would be stripped at the season when they are all in the water. No survey or catching newts required, All of it polite and considered. Otherwise some consultants rather take advantage.

I go for option 1. The rules are to retain habitats not to make money. So explain if the area is currently not suitable for gcn. So no loss. And that you have already made new ponds. And can you provide some additional land cover to their liking? And whatever else makes a sensible case. Eg that nothing significant has changed since the original approval. Make it easy for them with plans, photos etc.

It sounds undersigned for a 'proper' building, esp now you mention overhangs. It feels too flimsy to you so I suspect it is. A sketch or photo?

That is a bit skinny. What centres are they on? Is the cls spanning the 2m? If you hang off one, does it deflect a lot? You say a toilet block. Is this for private occasional use, or public?

OK. So either you use another wall opening to transfer the levels through, or you drill a hole through what will be the shared wall, and measure up and down again. Make sure the hole is horizontal.

Contraction joint. But yes, do this and allow latex as above. Latex, concrete, dpm, stone base, added up for your depth. Vinyl floor contractors will do levelling screed, then there is no-one else to blame for blips.