saveasteading

I was nervous on occasions i challenged that proposals for monitoring were unreasonable, and even self-interested. (Didnt use those words).It always turned out ok though as long as we were reasonable...esp not rude. I think my secret was to not blame, but point out something that allowed them to agree and back down. Site specific, so I can't really suggest what yours might be. Problem...solution. Newts under stones or in hedges...clear only in the pond season Grass....confirm has been mown for x years. Workers wandering too far into nature...strict site rules and fence. Polluting pond ? Etc. Sometimes though you just have to accept it and limit the problem and cost.

Have you reminded them that all newts are in ponds at a definite time of the year? So there is zero risk to newts in that window. Sometimes these consultants aren't the most practical people. Your planner can be subtle." Remind me, is it the case that newts migrate to ponds....etc."

Assuming that the survey says "nothing to be expected here". Not copied by them to the planners but to you. Otherwise don't submit it and try again. I still think that the planners must have reasonable grounds to request the survey. In so doing they should explain why.

I agree. Have you looked at other recent applications near you? They will all be online. If nobody else has this condition then neither should you, unless they have specific requirements, whuch clearly they haven't. If they have, then you will see the details. Then you write to say ...whatever. Come back to us when you have done this research on the planning portal.

I've had about 4 projects where they attended site and looked in the holes we dug for foundations. It slowed the job a few days. On one we killed the need for the above. , and on 2 they wanted special trenches, but the jobs didn't go ahead If there is nothing specific in the condition, and nothing in the Local Plan, then it is likely you only need a desk top study to say that nothing is likely to be of interest. FYI. On one project there were loads of roman pot fragments but they weren't interested in them On another they were looking for signs of a Roman road. Usually they only want to see any signs of hedges and ditches to complete their maps of fields and roads. Beware of them writing a report that says that you should employ themselves throughout the project. So talk to them first and engage the one you can trust: you are paying.

I happened to see part of one of those daytime TV shows about renovating. Bought at auction for 145k. Coat of paint and update and sell for 220k. "I'm definitely moving straight on to my next project." If I was with HMRC it would be a fruitful programme to watch.

Interesting when filling out an application to insure the next project. If a self build burns down, do the insurance company make you self build the replacement?

Good marketing, making it sound new and efficient, and natural. This principle has been around for decades. Lindab make, or made, a version of it. I think it could be useful in providing hot water radiators in big open spaces. The rads could be at work stations. In a corridor it will warm peoples' heads up where the heat is gathering, and the air temperature can remain cooler, and save energy. Not in hospital corridors though if full of waiting patients. In a domestic scenario it isn't so obvious if this is efficient. Logically it shouldn't be expensive....but i think it is. I tried. Getting a quote was very difficult...."send us your detailed design for our system and then we can quote"... My answer...No.

There is a design principle that we first design for draught proofing, and then ventilate as necessary. That is for energy efficiency. Control. The pir is taped to stop draughts or other air circulation. Ventilation of rooms is then controlled by windows, vents or fans. The vapour control is about protecting the timber structure from damp and rot, and so is a separate issue. The membrane allows humid air to vent out, but is waterproof against rain coming in. Thus the structure inside the vcl is always dry, while outside it the dampness gets through but is stopped and the ventilation lets it dry again. If you get an offcut of vcl, play with it. Fold into a cup shape to see if it holds water (it does). Then blow or suck air through it. Even when you know this, it helps to demonstrate it. It also avoids any thought of using leftovers as filter membrane, or vice versa.

Tie it down or have a mug of them next to the diary. I miss the screwfix pencils. A glut of them meant there was always one around, and nobody had to borrow yours.

So many questions. Yes it is complex. If an existing building has no dampness then you can leave it alone. If you are stripping tiles from the roof then fit a vcl before retiling. The cost is low and it can do no harm. Old roofs in england usually have nothing under thr tiles. You get wind and driven snow in the attic and so insulate the ceilng. What little wster comes u der the tiles dries out again...usually. More modern roofs have felt. The same applies except the ventlation is only around the tiles. In scotland (and posher houses in E&W) roofs have sarking. 4 inch boards with gaps between, so it ventilates. Since breathable membranes were invented all reroofs benefit from them, whether new of retrofit. Osb sarking doesnt have many gaps so needs a space under it to allow ore ventilation. The traditional gaps are also left between sarking boards but they also now get a space beneath, because why not? Summary. Yes roofs should breathe.

Nothing illegal about it. These are ok for a garage or gaden shed. Surprising though that these have been suggested. Even if they achieved 1.6, you would lose a lot of heat and they would be a bad idea.

Great. When there is nothing to record, still say something. Could be, 'nobody on site today as prev agreed'. Otherwise you forget if you forgot. Get workers full names, just the once. Thereafter it can be whatever they are called. Digger, sparks, trowel, leaky. My diaries were filled with things like ' joiner + 2' if it was the usual gang. This book doubles as your safety and incident record. Cut fingers, the lot. Nice pen ready for the first entry? Actually wouldn't it be nice to record your feelings and ambitions before it starts. .

Recommended tanking product? Adhesive has to stick to it.

Normal plywoood? Waterproof? I guess any will stand a bit of damp whereas chipboard acts as a sponge. Not that i've ever worried about it before, but on the off chance that the floor gets soaked or a joint leaks. That makes sense about the ply moulding to undulations. I have used hardboard, but if you say ply, then ply. £8/m2 is good news too. Have you tried ditra or similar matting? Anything you dislike apart from the price? Good point about the chipboard screws. One chance. A hands and knees qc session is required.

CSCS cards provide proof that individuals working on construction sites have the appropriate training and qualifications for the job they do on site. Well, cscs would say that. But it is no true. It only means you got a card. Nobody in my company was required to have one, and no client ever asked. i looked through a training book for a test, and some questions were laughable. It shocked me that our apprentice struggled with some of it though. Hired a forklift driver through an agency once, who had a card for a telehandler. He couldn't operate it and we sent him home and the digger driver (no card) had to unload our deliveries.

Wandering slightly off subject....I really dislike how developers name their estates after what they have destroyed. The Orchard etc.

Thanks. I've seen the matting at tops and assumed it was for problem concrete. That looks easy enough to glue to the chipboard. Strangely topps seem to have 3 different products doing much the same. Same sort of price as hardiebacker /m2. It is also recommended for ufh screeds which seems counterproductive....why add an insulating layer? I have loads of tiling straight onto concrete, with no issues...as long as it is old perhaps.

There is actually no legal requirement for them on any site I knew that, but was underplaying. I'd be interested to know where you got that idea @craig

That makes a huge difference. Giving up paid work to manage a self-build is a big deal. The rewards can be great though, on many levels.

When you are talking about the project, what do you call it?

And, sorry to sound negative, if there is any dispute, then your diary is an important reminder of what was going on and evidence if it gets heavy. I asked a lawyer why someone couldn't fiddle a backdated note. He explained that it is surprisingly easy to prove, and the result is jail. We worked all day: you left at 3. We made it work; no that was me. A good diary can be worth thousands.

None of us did at first. You have 2 choices: learn a lot about building or hand it to experts and pay them well. We are here to help of course.

We have 3 areas of upper floor to be tiled for en-suites? They are t&g chipboard screwed to timber joists. Concerned that cracks may form at joints and that chipboard is itself suitable as a tile substrate. We are thinking of Wedi board or Hardiebacker as a waterproof material that will also prevent cracking. Expensive though. The joists are substantial and don't appear to bend or bounce at all Any advice please?

?. On self build? I have put in and repaired a few when fitters were not available. They all had separate glass which aids weight handling but is another issue re fit. That was when I found out that aluminium doors absolutely depend on the glass for strength. I take 4 times as long as the pros. Bear in mind that measuring isn't as easy as you might think, and it is your problem if you DIY. Lesser window fitters add lots of tolerance and mastic. Good ones get it just right.