j_s

I go back and forth on whether I should do this. Detached 4 bed house with 75/80mm full insulated wool batts. I have various draughts which are hard to track down which this would help with. I can only do 100mm max though due to moving waste pipes and narrowing of walk way down the side of the house, kitchen waste pipe being the major issue as it would narrow the walk way down to much to get the wheelie bin down there and this is a must. Is it wise to have different thicknesses of ewi on different walls. For example 50mm or less on the east facing, 100mm on the rest? I know I won't get the money back but we like where we live and it's about comfort more than anything

I think I know who bitpipe is referring to. I have spoken to them this week and they are cheaper than my local firms and were very quick to respond. They aren't far away from me and I will be speaking to them about the RK entrance doors they sell too. I was quoted for supply/fit similar size hormann sectional door t rib with stainless steel inserts

This might not be helpful but we get a lot of noise in our big spare bedroom. When the temperature changes you can hear various noises from the floor and also walking along one side of the bedroom. We will be doing some serious renovations to the bedrooms next year so will know more then but I am sure it's to do with the floor boards being nailed down and the base plate of the stud wall and lots of movement either side of the stud wall and potentially underneath it where I expect it's nailed down but not solid so more movement can happen. So perhaps you are on the right track with regards to the ground floor stud wall.

Thanks guys. Turns out I didn't need to do it in the end but I will keep those carbide rasp attachments on file for my multi-tool

Hi guys, I've started improving all of the joins between windows and brickwork. The brickwork in places is awful (not straight lines in reveals) , also got mortar sticking out slightly. I'll be using foam and expanding tape but to use the tape ideally the gap needs to be more uniform. Any ideas how to cut back the mortar between frame and brick in a max of 10mm gap? Thanks James

I think once you get going like jack says you will feel better. You can't let all the work youve already put in be for nothing. I lose sleep now and again just planning stupid little things like insulation improvements to my house and other renovation plans and it dominates .y thoughts. I'd be a mess with building a house!

Hi guys I've removed the plasterboard, window board, adhesive etc from my garage window reveal (this will be done to all my windows but using the garage as a test). The garage (on side of house and has an internal door to my utlity room) window reveal has no cavity closers, I do know most if not all my house window reveals do have them though. For this reveal should I get some cavity closers or use pir board and foam the board into place. I was planning to do the following: If I use pir board should I get the right thickness for the cavity and have the reflective backing so it faces the outer brick and the inner block or get whatever thickness I want and cut the right thickness and have the reflective lining facing me as I fit it or does it matter? I can do this on the left, right and under the window board. I was then going to get 12mm (maybe even 24mm) pir board and line the reveals completely across the blockwork over the cavity closers or make shift cavity closers, under the window board and covering the lintel. Should I use normal expanding foam as an adhesive or buy some actual foam adhesive for this part of the task? I plan to get a joiner to make up some birch ply linings for the reveals as I like the ply edge which will face into the room for a contemporary look and paint the reveal linings, these will be mechanically fixed into the block work, I'd like to foam/glue them in but not sure how to make them stay in place and solid but we will see. Before all the insulation is added, the gaps between windows and brick work will be foamed and I planned to tape up over the this too. Yes it may unnecessary but I'm going to do this properly. If I use tape should I tape between window and cavity closer or tape before adding the closers in? I will be adding new cavity batts where they are missing (you can see this in the pics below). I will also foam the gaps where the existing plasterboard has been dot/dabbed. Pictures are below of current garage reveal thanks James

Thanks guys Garage window reveal done and will start new thread concerning how to insulate etc.

Will try. Will need to order some specs actually. Actually I'll pop down the local diy shop in the morning as they are 5 minute walk and an independent. On a slightly different subject, removing external sealant from aluminium window to brick, what is the best way without scratching the ali frame? My aim is to better seal the gaps between window and masonry, so I'm starting from the outside with expanding foam tape (like compriband), then using low expanding foam from a gun from the inside. thanks all.

Just to update you guys, new club hammer and chisels arrived today and had a quick go and hey presto suddenly a lot easier. Hammer weighs a bit thanks all

Thanks All.

Cheers guys I don't actually own any chisels so any advice on size?

Hey guys Finally back with a few questions I am starting on my project to improve all of our window and door reveals but first I need to remove the plasterboard and adhesive. The plasterboard is easy but the adhesive seems to be a right pain. I was using my multi tool which really gets jammed in the adhesive. Any advice? Will dampening it allow it to come off more easily ? Many thanks James

I was JmS on ebuild before. Glad this place is here I'd like to thank Jeremy for the expanding foam nozzle he posted to me just when everything hit the fan on ebuild. Also a reminder for our resident plumber from Wales, about his thoughts on the kitchen extractor motorized damper fitting