MikeGrahamT21

Also, what type of spacers do they use, no mention of that on the website? Our current 'new' ones are the black thermal spacers EDIT: Found it: Inner pane – Pilkington KS Outer pane – Pilkington Optiwhite Gas filling – Argon Gas Spacer bar – SuperSpacer Thickness - 28mm or 36mm for triple glazing How did you manage to get 44mm for triple from these, they don't seem to offer it?? Do you have to speak to them direct?

Yeah i'll definitely look into these. If you wouldn't mind sending some pictures, especially of the internal beading. The eurocell modus is definitely better than this, but its whether it warrants the extra £, and at the moment I don't know how much extra £ that would be.

Yeah the 7016 on upvc does have a slight blueish tint i agree, we have some already, but I don't mind it, looks nice when installed. What are the u value on those windows? I'll take a look at that company, and also the profile.

Yeah absolutely, less frame and more glass will always be better. Both products boast about slim sightlines for maximum glass area, so there may not be much in it. Yes the Liniar frames are indeed marketed for improved acoustics, however we don't really require that as the area where we live is very quiet, most of the time you could hear a pin drop! I know for a fact our current windows suffer from chunky frames, and are indeed designed badly (on our part when i didn't know any better) to have too much frame. The new windows I'll be designing with as little frame as humanly possible, so we get the most glass area.

Hi, Before you comment on this, please bear in mind I don't want to spend thousands and thousands on Alu Clad Timber windows, but rather are more modest uPVC in 7016 grey to the outside. I've narrowed my choice down to two profiles, both would be triple glazed with the following spec: Liniar's brand new EnergyPlus90, 90mm profile which I would furnish with 48mm Triple glazing (4-18-4-18-4) which I believe would give a u-value somewhere in the region of 0.7-0.8U for the whole window. This profile is very new and very hard to get hold of at the moment, but i'd be willing to wait for it, its a 9 chamber product, which has ph-B status. We have other Liniar profile already (energyplus70), which i quite like, and they use q-lon gaskets on their windows which I also like. Eurocell's Modus, which is a 75mm profile, which can take a maximum of 44mm triple glazing (4-16-4-16-4) which gives a certified u-value of 0.8U for the whole window. This product is a 6 chamber, non-passivehouse certified profile, which is easy to get hold of, and can be ordered from the many retail outlets which Eurocell have. Not sure what gaskets they use, website talks about triple seals and airtightness which is a good indication, but I have had eurocell (eurologik) products in the past, and haven't been massively impressed, this however is a very different product. Does anyone have any experience of these products? Not expecting it for the Liniar one as its only just been launched, but the eurocell one has been out for a while. Because the Liniar one is so new, getting a quote for comparison is quite difficult. I did email a company in Nottingham, however they have gone quiet on me. I saw a post by Jeremy talking about the gas spacing in the triple, and from that I reckon the Liniar one would be more suitable, nearer the 20mm spacing, but if both hold the sameish u-value, would there be much difference? Any comments greatly received. Regards Mike

Can't find anything online about Tyvek, but Kingspan Nilvent breather membrane claim "Airtight at normal building pressures", whatever that means? EDIT, found it: Air Permeability Kingspan nilvent ® is airtight, when tested at normal building pressures, i.e. 50 Pa pressure difference. Pretty sure the Tyvek stuff will be the same, but i will check, and if its not airtight, i'll consider the Kingspan Nilvent stuff as a replacement for it, it will come in at some point for the roof.

breather membrane is tyvek supro by the way, not the cheap stuff.

Yeah thats the one, sleeper wall in the middle. Are breather membranes not airtight within 50pa? I know they aren't fully airtight. I seem to remember asking someone before, and for suspended wood it had to be vapour open membrane, so that excess moisture didn't collect under the floor and rot the joists, is that not right? We have plenty of air bricks, and good flow underneath, so I guess it shouldn't be an issue, but was just erring on the side of caution. Plus i've got 2 rolls of the stuff! lol

You are correct in terms of air leakage, not much point as it would be below the barrier, but my thinking was to stop any moisture migrating to the joist ends which would be a lot colder. Thought about insulation type, I know fitting PIR is a pain, but with only 100mm to utilise, its the best type per £ i'm going to get. Also, if I use a wool based product, ideally i'd need the membrane below to stop air movement into the insulation, which isn't going to happen. I could lap the membrane over and under which would get the effect i'd need, but that would also be a pain to detail.

Hi, Just wanting to run my plans past someone to ensure I'm on the right track... We have suspended wood floor (using 4x2), with about 200mm void underneath the timbers and my plans are as follows: Clean out all of the rubbish from under the floor and hoover all the dust up Replace any bad timbers (we have had woodworm previously), and treat any remaining good timbers Re-do heating pipes and ensure fully insulated Apply a sand/cement parge around the joist ends, and then seal using airtight tape 100mm PIR friction fit in between the joists to fully fill them, and use expanding foam to fill in any gaps overlay the joists with breathable roofing type membrane, with the 'outside' side facing into the room, overlap by 100mm, and seal with airtight tape. Lap the membrane up the walls slightly, and bond to the wall (possibly using an airtight silicone??) Flooring to be 18mm OSB3 smart ply Skirting board to finish, and cover up the membrane lap Is there any part of this which can be improved at all? Thanks for your input. Regards Mike

No problems, i'll go with the option of installing it in the back gable should we proceed, which will vent onto our own land

Actually, I think a quick google has just revealed the answer to this one, its a no go! We can put it on the gable end either end, so I'll have a ponder about it and see what I can come up with.

Hi, I'm thinking of installing a Single Room MVHR to our new utility, which will protrude the garage wall by around 50-70mm if I remember right, and we have the option of either exhausting directly onto the neighbours garage (between the buildings there is around 700-800mm), or we can exhaust over his driveway. Now he has been very funny over the years, so I thought this was a sensible question before i crack out the old core drill. Are there any legal issues or come back potential here? Mike

I've seen these type underfloor heating systems before on the internet, and was very interested in them, makes sense I guess using larger area to heat, just seemed a bit too good to be true.

OK, was worth considering, but yeah I do worry about the cool air intake, even from the heated models, only gets to 10c, which seems a bit inefficient. PIV is a lot cheaper to buy, but i'd prefer to buy MVHR and have all the benefits which come with it. Installation will be done by me, following someones design, so costs from labour point of view are nil.

Also, what are your views on Positive Input Ventilation, and d-MEV as a whole system, and I'll monitor the loft for smells. This obviously wouldn't capture any heat, but would still fulfil the air quality side of things.

Yeah i think thats got to be the next step. I'd say a good 80% of the time it must be westerly, however we did smell it quite often last year in the front (nearest to them), so this may not necessarily be the case.

Neighbour is east of us, so normally with west wind, wouldn't be an issue, just those odd times when we get the cold easterly's. I'll keep an eye on where it smells, the back of the house is always better than the front, but i'll take more notice this winter.

Thought that might be the case too. Ah well, at least I'm going into this with my eyes open, last thing I want is to install all this and be disappointed. On the plus side it gives me a free £1500 to go toward battery storage for our PV when it becomes viable (going to give it some time to develop, as things are hotting up), you never know may even be government incentives in the coming years.

Yeah thought it might :-( Oh well, I guess i'll keep an eye and a nose on where the smoke actually gets to around the property, and hopefully there will be somewhere which is smoke free. Would MVHR actually be worth the cost and effort, if we couldn't use it from say Nov - March?

Another question on MVHR units... Is there any way to operate them in Extract Only? I'm just thinking so we still have a ventilation method to remove excess moisture during times of smoke when we don't want to import air? I guess the air would just come from other places though wouldn't it? And probably be no better off?

Thanks, i've added that to my watch list.

mmm, I think i'd agree with you there! Perhaps BPC are just on the sell sell sell tactics. Plus the filter they recommended is a whopping £800 for the smallest one! And no guarantee of if it doesn't work can i have my money back. I'm going to pay more attention to where we can smell the smoke this winter, it may be that we can only get it at the nearest point to the neighbours house, though i guess it probably depends on the wind direction! They are to our east, so more often than not the westerly's carry it away, but get a cold easterly, and it would definitely be on, and coming in our direction, so its not looking promising! I'm really annoyed to be honest, as I've been dreaming all this up for years. We do seem to suffer from quite high humidity in the house (if i leave the dehumidifier off we reach around 70% in occupancy, dropping back to 65% if we go out), which this would have cured, and currently resolve this using a smart dehumidifier, but obviously it takes a lot of electric, though does give us some heat back being a dessicant version, and this brings it back to a more reasonable 60%, though we can go to 50% if required. We have an extractor in the bathroom which is PIR activated, so is on regularly, but perhaps isn't powerful enough. I don't even know whether to consider a single room MVHR for bathroom when this one breaks, as we'll be in the same situation, just on a smaller single room scale!

I contacted BPC for a free quote, they didn't seem too concerned about the smoke issue, said that the units all come with filters which should get rid of it, and if its too bad, they sell an £800 carbon filter as an extra which would see it off. Opinions on this? I know someone recommended BPC, but they seem to be saying the exact opposite of you guys, and its a lot of money to spend!

Thanks! As soon as I saw the car radiator fan I thought it would be ideal, and very cheap too! Do you have a link to a speed controller? I'll have to give this build a go at some point, should help me massively moving forwards. Got some plywood coming up for use, its temporary flooring at the moment, so this will be a good use of it :-)