MikeGrahamT21

Yeah i've looked at several solutions. The MLCP appeals due to its strength and bending radius, plus there is the chance of mice under the floors here (it has happened before). Emmetti manifolds are nice, but once you have all the bits, very expensive. The oxygen barrier too, isn't really suitable for CH with JG and the like, and most only work to around 50C, which is below where the CH would be. Happy with the plastic look, my idea was to bring both pipes up in the centre of the radiator, up behind the rad, and bend them back down to tails off of the valves, and finally box the pipes coming from the floor to create a robust install which can't be caught by things such as hoovers. Maybe I'm going a little OTT?

My other concern over the MLCP, it all seems to mention press-fit, which seems a step backwards from pushfit? The tectite is push fit, so it seems the euro stuff is the press fit.

Finally got round to measuring all my pipe lengths, need around 100m in 15mm and 25m in 22mm. I'd got everything decided what I was going to get, a disman 8 port manifold, with tectite MLCP Pex-Al-Pex pipe, but my word is it expensive! Looking around £300 just for the pipe alone. My other option is Pipeplus, which has an EVOH oxygen barrier, and is far superior in terms of oxygen penetration compared with the likes of the JG barrier pipe, and is a much better £61 + VAT per 100m, also in the standard 15 and 22mm sizes. The tectite is clearly better overall, but would you spend the extra on it? This is just for wall hung rads, not underfloor heating. If 16mm TRV's existed, it wouldn't be an issue, i'd just go straight for the european 16mm MLCP Pex-Al-Pex pipe, which is very cheap, but I can't seem to find any. I'll try looking for radiator stems with 16mm push fit or compression ends

OK, I shall leave it be in that case, thanks for the info

Hi, We have a 16 panel system equating to 4kW, which I had always assumed was limited by the G83 recommendation, as we have no special permissions with the DNO, however when I've been fiddling around with my inverter settings (just figured out how to connect to it via bluetooth), I noticed that the current setting was on G59 however, and it presumably has been that way since the day it was installed. Just to clarify, what should it actually be set to? Don't want to be burning out the local substation, though I assume if mine is like this, i bet hundreds of other installs are likely the same. Regards Mike

Yeah, all i can see is 10mm too: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Pushfit/sd3143/Radiator+Pipe+Guide+N+Seal/p63699 Can't imagine you'd find 15mm ones, as the PEX pipes wouldn't bend sharp enough, like the 10mm ones do.

The other day I found Pegler Yorkshire Tectite, which is a UK made, 15mm MLCP, can be used with ordinary push fit and compression as long as you use their 3PS liners. Its quite expensive, but for me, worth the extra so it works with lower cost fittings.

lol, good plan! I'm pretty sure you can take the glazing units out of the door, would turning them round give us any benefits in terms of energy efficiency? Not sure how much the reflective coating actually adds.

Lol! I don't mind the light to be fair, saves us putting ours on, it was more a question of if the sensor can pick me up, that means IR radiation is escaping, and therefore heat. Doesn't happen on the windows which are smooth to the inside.

Hi Bit of an odd one this one. Our neighbour recently had a new spot light fitted, and it seems very sensitive, so much so that we can turn it on inside our kitchen, through the glass of the composite door, and it got me thinking... It's patterned glass, but the pattern is on the inside,just how it came, but to me that's inside out? We have another exactly the same, and that also has pattern to inside. I've even had a look on other people's and theirs is the same. Is there a reason for this or are they all wrong way round? Pretty sure the soft low e coating can only be on flat glass. They are both doors which can have the glass replaced, so taking it out and turning it round shouldn't be impossible. What do you think? Regards Mike

That's good info thanks, I'll definitely incorporate one of these into the new circuit

Yeah I'm sure I'll manage that lol. We don't have a hallway radiator, as it's too small, so I'll go with the bathroom on bypass, as it can get as hot as it likes in there. Now all I need is black Friday to come along and hopefully a bit of luck that the evohome has a discount, I can hope lol

Could have been, but pretty sure it was the wood burner, I know the smell, its very different to a bonfire smell, I think its the peat blocks which are burnt. What do people do on bonfire night with MVHR, all switched off?

Checked manual, boiler definitely needs a bypass, but that should suffice with both the pipework, and the bathroom radiator, so TRV in the room is possible.

Well, I'm not really sure. I also fitted a bypass on part of the pipework a few years back as a just in case all the radiators were turned off for whatever reason, so in terms of flow, there is a path even if everything is off (though the bathroom towel rad doesn't have a TRV currently, so is also a bypass). I was just thinking from a boiler perspective. I'm about to invest in a Honeywell Evohome System with connect radiator TRVs, currently the back of the house tends to be cooler (thermostat lives in living room where the TV and home cinema gives off quite a bit of heat), so ideally i'd want a TRV in the room too (even though its not recommended to have one where the stat is, evohome doesn't really work like that though), to close off the room radiator while still allowing heat into the back radiators, without cooking us

Well it seems the wood burning season has truly begun! Went outside last night, and could indeed smell it everywhere on the property, so until they come out with some kind of filtration, this will be a no go, which is such a shame!

Hi, Is there a size requirement for the Bypass Radiator? Or can it be any radiator? I was thinking of making it the towel radiator in the bathroom. We have a combi condensing boiler. Thanks for any info. Regards Mike

If this is in the UK, you may find that no one actually visits. We've just remortgaged, and it was done using some automated system, i was expecting someone coming out but no one ever arrived. They give very low valuations, which aren't correct for the property, so don't expect it coming back to what it actually worth. Ours is £140k, valued using automated system at £116k

Cool, many thanks for your input on this one. Regards Mike

Yeah i've done all the straps and bracing as per requirements, BCO have signed this stage off already.

200mm each side, so more than the 150mm suggested. It was more of a what if something isn't right (since i built it myself), I don't think theres anything wrong, but my wife is seriously ill at the moment, and I cant be doing with any hassle if you get my meaning.

Straight off of the blocks (well sat on sand/cement), its only a tiny single story extension to be fair. Yeah not thought about shrinkage of the wood, very good point! Extension has been up for 2years without any issues, but I do worry about snow, which we haven't really had.

Let me fill in the gaps... This is for an extension which is already built, cavity wall construction using masonry blocks (2.9N), wanting to give an extra 50mm load bearing for the lintel to sit on either side, and also line the reveals at the same time, so going to use 6x2 timber, C24.

Yeah, but steel on the inside rather than timber for the actual lintel

Yeah