MikeGrahamT21

Underneath was clean, nothing to report, so yeah, i guess the only sensible explanation is the radiator has been leaking for the last 5 years, explains why i've needed to keep topping it up!

Yeah, i thought the same, but feeling round its dry, unless it only leaks when hot, i.e. more pressure.

yeah thats true, i guess the cold from the airbrick would make moisture accumulate here.

Under the floor boards looks fine, and doesn't have the damp stain, just a million wood worm holes in the joists! oh well i knew they were there anyway

Currently lifting all the carpets and floors in the little bedroom in preparation to knock through into the new extension... Floor construction is suspended timber, absolutely no insulation whatsoever at present. About 5 years ago, we had a leak on the radiator pipe where this black mould is, the stain on the floor would lead you to believe its still wet, but so far it all feels dry, though i've not lifted the floor board there yet, but the carpet grippers around this radiator pipe were coated in thick black mould. Underneath this area is an air brick, though its now open on to the extension though still gets to around 5c in winter. Humidity levels in the house are always around 50%, even through winter, with temperature around 20C. I just can't understand why mould would grow next to a hot radiator pipe of all places?? Will report on my findings what is beneath the floorboards...i dread to think

Just found this online: http://www.safetyassured.co.uk/products/ Would need the non standard cavity barrier, classed as a finger protector.

Yeah, the magnetic stay is absolutely fine on our, but this is more a belt a braces approach for the people who 'forget' to use it!

lol, love it!

Hi Does anyone know of an anti slam device for the opening door of bifolding doors? cheers mike

Yeah thats cheaper than toolstation, though i certainly don't need 6 bottles for what im doing! lol

Its a 1960s build, and the boards definitely don't line up to the joists, i know that from other rooms i've done! I'll stick to my previous practice of lining board ends up to joists

Yeah, i'll be doing it by myself. B&Q sell shorter boards (cerca 1600x634, instead of the usual 2400), which means i'll be able to fit them in the car and avoid delivery costs). Not too bothered about cost difference between the boards, I just want the best product. Always a bit dubious of chipboard and any potential water on them weakening them, hence why OSB3 is my first choice, plus its also classed as a load bearing product which chipboard isn't. Joist spacing is a little over 500mm, so we can't go for any less than 18mm OSB or 22mm chipboard. I'll aim for the OSB i think! And get some D4 glue from toolstation next time i'm down there.

For clarification, the 18mm OSB3 provides as much strength as 22mm chipboard too. Would you prefer chipboard over OSB?

How do you normally install your floor boards, do you cut to the joist, or ignore the joists and rely on the tongue and groove? I've always cut to the joist in the past, but i've heard people doing it the other way too, and relying on the T&G for the joint. Obviously the latter will result in better joints and less waste, but is it strong enough? We are considering 18mm OSB3 TGV4, or 22mm Chipboard TGV4.

OK, looking at those diagrams, i'd say all of the ones i've looked at so far are counterflow.

OK, will keep an eye out for a counter flow unit.

So they quoted 89% efficiency i think for this unit, how can it only be 60-65? I'll keep on the lookout for counterflow, makes sense air at 90 degree angles to each other would pass more heat. All good information this!

I think the end goal would be to use the 75mm Radial ducting for ease of installation, but thanks for letting me know up front. I think my first goal if I can get a reasonably cheap but good MVHR unit second hand, will be to mount in the loft, and give it external air, and then basically just see what comes out of the inlet, if it smells of smoke I can investigate further then, before I go cutting a load of holes in the ceilings and walls.

Thats good to know, thanks for the explanation

Of course it is! My brain clearly isn't in gear today. Would a PS heat exchange need replacing every 6 years?

Actually that particular one i looked at says: Heat Exchanger – Crossed Counter-Flow type, made of PS (Polystyrene). How can a heat exchanger be made of insulation material?

OK cheers for that, wasn't aware there were different types of core. Assuming they were all aluminium. Not really seen much in the way in the specs either what type of heat exchanger they are, will have to keep a keen eye. Would aluminium core last forever bar a bit of cleaning?

Yeah i guess someone has to buy it to make it start. I wish i had that kind of money! lol

I've seen a second hand MVHR unit on ebay, Vortice HR200, 8 years old, but reading the manual the heat exchanger should be changed every 6 years, even if the filters have been looked after. Is this normal practice? I would have thought the heat exchanger would last a lifetime, and perhaps just need the odd bit of cleaning? What im wanting to do, and i think its the only way i'm going to come to an answer, is to mount an MVHR unit where its going to go, feed it a supply and extract, but don't do any ducting to the rooms, and see what i can smell come the winter time in the loft (which has never smelt of smoke), if its smells OK then its not likely to be an issue. Before I saw this one, i'd considered a Brookvent Aircycle 1.2, with summer bypass, which can be had for around £700, which didn't seem too bad, but what do you think about the above unit for £250, and just needs new filters apparantly?

What i want to know is, why do people do it for 'non-financial reasons', I suppose knowing that you doing something positive is good, but if its going to cost you money whats the point? Surely in 10 years time everyone will be wondering what on earth to do with all this battery waste.