Chriswills

Can only relieve the pressure but it will still be connected up I think. Here is a picture of the spec. Worth getting one of these or another type?

I can physically see it coming out of a pin hole. I’ll have to drain and change then.

I have a leaking pressure cylinder used for my solar. Is it easy to replace without losing any of the transfer fluid?

Final floor will be vinyl

It’s dried out now since I took all the old wall away

It was where the existing wall was before the extension went in

I have this between the kitchen area and lounge of a refurb we are doing. The kitchen is new extension and final floor will be self levelled. What the best to put here to pack it out before self levelling the floors ?

I will check ASAP again the location of the orange wire. So.....this green light......where is it located?

I think it was D, cant be 100%, so will need to check

Yes Dave, I put the relay back with the plug as shown in the picture.....disconnected. Ill try again to route the orange cable, but its very difficult a its buried in the loom. What do you think about the resistance reading?

So I followed the wires from the heater to the source, which was on a plug as shown in picture (also had another feed in there), re-connected the relay /2 and it tripped immediately. Also tested the resistance as instructed and had a reading of 0.08. This was tested on the plug as shown in picture - disconnected.

Thanks Dave, thats what I will do next (when the rain decides to stop!) So if I disconnect the heater and refit the relay KA6/2, switch the unit on.......it should not trip?

So I have 2 questions: 1. If it is working OK, would it be hot to the touch (I read this) and when would it be hot? 2. I have a multimeter (never used one) can I have a step by step instruction on how to test the heater before buying a new one please?

These are the only other x3 wires I can see going into the bottom of the compressor, x2 black and one earth. They fit into a large jubilee clip with a sort of tube attached around it. Is this the heater connections? EDIT - after a bit of research I found this to be the crankcase heater

Its just the inside of the cap I removed on the compressor

Heres the image of the removed plastic cap, where it connects to and whats inside the cap.....some instructions. I have not been able to find out where R1 is on the system or trace the orange lead, it dives into an area I cannot get to. These are the only electrical connections to the compressor.

Thanks, would you be able to show it on the actual pictures I sent in of the unit, as an indication please?

Thankyou looks like a way forward, can you tell me on the pictures I previously posted where the R1 is please?

I have enclosed the complete manual, I assume as per the picture that KA6-1 is on the left hand side, and -2 to the right. Compressor seems to be working and is warm to touch as are the pipes coming from it. Hope you can find something in the manual Dave. Air_source_MT_rev2.pdf

How can I test these items or should I just replace them. I’ll post some pics of them in more detail ASAP. the compressor seems to be warm and running though. Would it not work if either of these were faulty?

These are the circuit diagrams from the manual, so just to re-iterate, I have removed KA6/2 and it works! Could it be the compressor starter......A5.....shown in pictures too?

I can probably get someone to change it over if needed, just need to be 100% thats what it is

Here’s a picture of mine. Are they straightforward to change?