Chriswills

Temp outside is now 6 deg C and ASHP I now comes on at a return temp of 32. Is that right? may be a bit cold for rads upstairs, I think it needs to come on at 35. which DS values could reflect this

Thanks. Any recommendations for pipe thermometers too so I can see what’s going on with the system?

Just wondered if anyone has on of these so we can touch base on a few things?

Understand. Hasn’t thought of it like that. it’s only a small room I Suppose so doesn’t use a ton of energy to heat. flows are on full. Can’t get more than about 2 l/min.

Can you recommend one Pete? It is warm yes.

My UFH on the smallest zone ie utility room will not get up to zone control temp of 18 deg C and switch the actuator off. All other zones do and rooms are much bigger. If I turn it down to about 16 it will switch off then. Maybe flow issue?

I have the manual here for the controller, but very difficult to find the delta differential, not sure if you can help: 8MA10222_SBW600_EN_1209_low - google search this

Not using the pipe stat at all. I think it’s waste of time. So in accurate and if garage is cold then it goes off and when I get up house is cold. All sorts of issues

Me neither. That’s a job for when I do a full system flush in the summer

Yes some on the back here. They have plugs in there at moment. So to fit something would have to drain down I guess

Good question. I’ll check. what’s your reason for asking?

The HP unit settings are based on the return temperature which I have set to 37. The flow is then 5 degrees more at 42, or it’s supposed to be anyway. When the pump picks up a return of 34 it starts up again. 3 degree delta. I have been trying to reduce it but the rads suffer, so for me atm this is the best setting. Do you think it’s worth trying the compensation settings instead?

Glad someone thinks it’s simple and Thankyou so much? Could you just run through the settings please to achieve best efficiency, DS02, 04 and 06?

I wouldn’t mind a go at trying the weather compensation option. Got the manual info but need a bit of plain English if anyone can help please? Current settings are: DS00 = 0 which is off, needs to be 1 to activate. DS02 = 22 DSO4 = 15 DS06 = -5 these are the factory sets I assume and here is the page from the manual:

That’s total electricity used per day heating, water and everything else. I don’t have gas installed, just have a bottle for the job that’s all.

It’s not plumbed in to. Solar cylinder is separate to buffer. I’m on about 40-50 kWh a day now in winter at 12p a kw so not too bad. In summer it’s a lot less.

Yes GP grundfoss pump. hot water is solar thermal and immersion heater. by End March I usually switch the Ashp off heres an image of weather compensation graph. Is it worth a play?

There is a temp switch on the buffer return tank which I can set. It works based on the return temp to the HP. So for example it can be set to activate the pump only if the temp is 35 any lower then the grundfoss doesn’t come on. At the moment I have it switched off and the GP runs 24/7. HP runs when the return temp setting minus 3 is reached. Eg: return set to 37. Pump activates at 34. Pic shows 35 so unit is off. Timer is on 24/7 for UFH and from 6am until 12 pm for rads upstairs. Although most of the rads are off. Here’s some pics:

Thanks so much for the advice guys. I was beginning to think about changing the manifold so it does the job properly. any recommended components to use, eg, manifold with flow meters on lower, wiring centre etc. I did read in the supplier manual not to change the weather switch compensation to on if the unit was south facing. See pic. None of this has been commissioned, guy went bust and I had to pick up the pieces with other people. Although we had 10 years I’ve kind of just gone along with it as never had time, working away. Now I’m deep diving into it all. Max temps at 32 would do nothing for my rads either. This morning, after reducing the return temp on the ASHP to 35 (flow 40-always plus 5) the actuators are all open (bar 1) on the UFH and HP running trying to get more heat in I guess. What if I started to reduce flows to try and force more water where needed as the hall is now up to temp. Turned up by 2 degrees now to see if I can get the UF up to temp. Bit of a trade off in my opinion. UFH room stats are set to 18.

Thanks Dave. Would you suggest fitting a mixer and pump type manifold or leave as is? As it stands the actuators have no way of telling the pump to switch off. It’s mad really. My problem then I have only 1 pump so upstairs rad will go off too.

What’s the best a higher temp on the HP to close the UFH actuators quicker or low as possible temp output on the HP taking longer to get rooms to temp? I suppose higher the temp on the ASHP means costs go up or is that the case?

I know the property well I built it. Insulation is all good. Unfortunately I left the so called plumber to fit everything. It’s a long story !! Rad temp is about 30deg but because of new build is ok and warms up rooms nicely. I have radfan on the cold room and works a treat. UF zones, 5 in total are set to 18

Is about 10 yr old. Runs off ASHP. works ok but not too efficiently in my opinion. rads to other 2 floors also run off this pump from the buffer

Thanks. I have grundfos pump but it’s not on the manifold it’s by the buffer tank on speed 3. Is that OK?

Hi, my first post in here. Hello all. I have UFH downstairs with 5 zone controllers. I have just cleaned all the plastic tubes to see what the flows are and had a play with them. Seems I can’t turn the flow up anymore than 2l/min and they are all fully open. Is this normal and what should they be?