Alan Ambrose

>>> Ask loads of questions, we will give the same amount of answers Actually, we’ll give six different, sometimes mutually opposing, opinions for each question. 😉

+1 Yeah suggest you must have an SE look at this and do some calcs & designs. A useful check would be the weight of the windows that were being removed plus details of how they’re fixed and how the openings are presently supported. If you’re not modifying the existing apertures, the new supports, if required, may also reduce the window size allowed by a bit.

Yes, the US, but not unreasonable to think we might face the same potential problem here due to datacentres gobbling power: An electricity crunch is driving high bills in these states. It’s not getting better anytime soon https://edition.cnn.com/2025/12/22/climate/high-electricity-bills-maryland-new-jersey-pennsylvania?iid=cnn_buildContentRecirc_end_recirc&recs_exp=up-next-article-end&tenant_id=related.en

@gc100 >>> I just got a good passive aerial/dish and pointed it towards the nearest mask (looked up online). It’s just plugged into the back of the router that has the sim Possible to say a bit more? This was a directional aerial? With gain? More than one (I see some router ads wasping on about multiple aerials and ‘Mimo’). 4G, I assume?

Mine might be the little 1/4inch Makita DDF083 drill/driver and a set of hex drills. Oh, and a magic wand to wave over my local planning department…

My reading is that (with the possible exception of bathrooms) that low voltage dc e.g. 24V led strips (or ac come to that) is outside Part P. Similarly PoE which is usually 24V or 48V dc over ethernet cables.

I’ve recently been bugged by Enforcement a couple of times and had an Non Material Amendment (NMA) turned down. And the LPA owes me some money for their previous unreasonable behaviour. The whole ‘system’ is a piss take designed to stop development. The beneficiaries are the existing land/property owners, of course. It needs rolling back 50 years or so.

Sam U’s example: 1. Application Form (inci. the correct type 23. Economic/Employment Assessment of Ownership Certificate 24. Energy Statement 2. Site Location Plan 25. Flood Risk Assessment 3. Existing & Proposed Elevations 26. Heritage Statement 4. Existing & Proposed Plans 27. Inclusive Design Statement 5. Existing & Proposed Sections 28. Landscaping Strategy 6. Affordable Housing Financial Viability 29. Microclimate Wind Assessment Assessment 30. Noise & Vibration Impact Assessment 7. Affordable Housing Statement 31. Planning Fire Safety Statement 8. Agent of Change Assessment 32. Planning Statement 9. Air Quality Assessment 33. Public Art Strategy 10. Archaeological Assessment 34. Preliminary Drainage Strategy 11. Aviation Impact Assessment 35. Preliminary Ecological Assessment 12. Biodiversity Statement 36. Refuse and Recycling Strategy 13. Biodiversity Net Gain Statement* (incl. 37. Safety, Security and Resilience to completed copy of the statutory Emergency Strategy biodiversity metric calculation tool) 38. Topographical Plans/Surveys (Existing 14. Community Engagement Statement & Proposed) 15. Community Infrastructure Levy Form 39. Townscape and Visual Impact 16. Contaminated Land Assessment Assessment 17. Daylight & Sunlight Assessment (On- 40. Transport Assessments Site & Off-Site) a. Swept Path Analysis and 18. Demolition Plans b. Parking Surveys (Richmond 19. Design and Access Statement Methodology) 20. Draft Construction Logistics 41. Transport Statement Management Plan 42. TV/Radio Reception Impact 21. Draft Delivery & Servicing Plan® Assessment and

+1 with the exception of crazy wall or dodgy tiles. Even then, a good tiler will warn you in advance and give you the option.

Quite a good summary here: https://www.samdumitriu.com/p/labour-are-finally-taking-the-housing

Easiest way to try out is Arduino software or similar and the USB dongle which will present the 485 as standard serial. The manufacturer’s simple protocol is probably documented somewhere, otherwise it’ll be hard to guess unless you have a working example from somewhere. Post up docs here?

Congrats. You need the patience of a saint, no?

Re 5G routers - anyone have a recommendation for SIM providers? O2 has bolloxed our camera sims and talking to people at O2 and EE shops - they don't really support data sims. They say they will cut off any sim that doesn't have a voice call on it at least every 3 months. AI recommends EIOTCLUB, Transatel and other providers I've never heard of. I read there are some multi-network IOT data sims? Any experience? p.s. O2 & EE seems to be our best actual networks at the plot. Ditto 4/5G router/aerial recommendations?

Ah, that’s good - it includes the ‘not yet built’ database

Yeah, there’s a ‘new build database’ or something and the standard ‘actually exists’ database. My LPA insisted on putting us on the former. That means that all but a few switched-on merchants can’t see it. Annoying for deliveries.

Is there a vague 'requirement' for a fire-brigade-accessible PV-shutdown switch. I'm thinking a big red stop switch in an obvious place, probably wired to the inverter or a DC-contactor? Would this be sensible or is it completely OTT?

I'm meaning from a Part P / BC point-of-view? Yeah, I realise that this is industrial spec cable rather than domestic, but this is for 24V (i.e. ELV) ffs. Max current will be 3 x 14W 5m LED strips i.e. 2A. The braid will be used for EM shielding, given that dimmer control is fairly noisy. You could have the same is it / isn't it discussion for 24 or 48V PoE over CAT5/6/6a, of course, and pretty much nobody would think that falls under Part P.

Errrr, super-complicated, slow expensive torture by your LPA, utilities and various other suppliers who don't give a ....... monkey's and are often actively hostile. Will test all your considerable skills and patience. At least with a PhD you get a piece of paper at the end.

FYI, for MVHR, I used both the spreadsheet here on ‘t ‘ub and, for comparison, the Ubbink calculator. Then there’s a bit of common sense re air & duct routes, ceiling heights, valve positions. Detailed but not rocket surgery as they say.

A couple of questions: + anyone used ROTHOBLAAS air tight tapes instead of Pro Clima? e.g. https://insulationmerchant.com/products/rothoblaas-seal-band-60-airtightness-tape . I know their screws get proper SE reverence, so maybe their tape is pretty good also? and... + there's a bit of a fuss re CT1 being maybe less than magic: https://youtu.be/bwvE9FqjfQA - anyone have any views?

OK ta.

Should the max MPPT voltage be compared against the panel's open-circuit or max power voltage? For the panels I'm looking at (JAM54D41-445/LB) the max power voltage at 32.65V is only 83% of the open-circuit voltage of 39.1V. I'm pushing the max MPPT voltage with the number of panels I'm thinking of, hence the question.

I found a few scraps on info for anyone coming across this thread. Summary is that you can control either by linking up via Velux's propriety RF interface e.g. + Documentation - Velux | Loxone + Velux - Home Assistant Yuk. The more grown-up solution is via a custom PCB: + Controlling Velux windows | SmartHome.Exposed + Module VNX-A for interfacing VELUX® KMG100 window actuator drive Curiously, Google AI thinks this (which seems to be nonsense unless this is maybe for some non-retail Velux products): VELUX 24V control systems are Open System solutions for controlling electric windows, blinds, and vents via a ±24V DC signal, allowing integration into building management systems. This is different from the company's proprietary io-homecontrol system and is often used in commercial applications or with smart home systems that support this voltage. You typically need a compatible building management system and hardware like relays to control the devices. How it works Voltage: The system uses a low-voltage ±24V DC supply, which is a standard in building automation. Control signal: You send a polarity-based signal (positive or negative) to open or close the window or blind. Integration: This allows you to integrate VELUX products into your preferred smart home or building management system (BMS). Hardware: A building management system can control the devices through hardware with relays that switch the 24V DC signal. Devices like the Velux KLF 050 or KLF 200 interface can also be used for this purpose, or you can use a system like Loxone with appropriate relay extensions. Key components VELUX products: This includes electric or solar-powered windows, blinds, and ventilation modules equipped with a 24V actuator. Control unit: A building management system or a specific interface (like the Velux KLF series or a Cartelectronic interface) that sends the 24V DC commands. Power supply: A 24V DC power supply for the actuators and control system. Relays: In many cases, a relay is needed to switch the 24V DC polarity to control the motor. Example scenario A smart home system (like Loxone) is connected to VELUX windows via a relay. The system sends a signal to the relay, which then applies a 24V DC current to the window's actuator, opening or closing it based on the polarity. This allows for automated control of windows based on time, temperature, or other inputs within the smart home setup.

One of the next few Thursdays maybe? IP14-ish but feel free to make suggestions. Or maybe if we're very nice to @G and J he might resurrect his Woodbridge offer?

This is Artisan Electric's view of battery options from a year ago (below). I'm leaning towards the Sigenergy stuff. Anyone have a very different view or some more nuanced observations? I'm looking for single phase, adaptable 'open' system, to bolt into Home Assistant or similar. From: https://youtu.be/7xQGexleUfQ