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I think that’s not a safe assumption. My house is not a new build but I covered the solid brick walls at the side and back with 50mm EWI and the rear is almost all brand new as we did a two storey extension, so it’s all double wall with cavity insulation. Loft has tonnes of insulation too. The second floor is considerably warmer than the rest of the house. The first floor is always 1 to 1.5C Warner than the ground floor, and there is also quite a bit of variation between the rooms with windows at the front elevation (East facing) and the rooms at the rear elevation (west facing). I’m sure our MVHR is doing something but don’t imagine it will equilibriate everything everywhere. I would suggest you have more thermostats. I have 12!

The confusion prevails. Was about to purchase two ubiquiti in wall APs, as recommended by @Nickfromwales , and a switch and on the ubiquiti website I come across the below infographic which suggests I also need a “Unifi OS Console”. Do I and if so what the hell is it and why are the others on here managing without one?

I really need to just get on and buy this. Anybody recommend any good websites that have a good idiot proof guide to the ubiquiti kit? Still struggling to find the right switch.

Do your concerns about malware Apple to the Apple family of devices? I find that they are pretty immune to these kinds of threats, although I might be blissfully ignorant of the truth.

I thought about this momentarily, but quickly concluded I didn’t understand what the fuss was about. If somebody is invited into my home, why wouldn’ti trust them with my password. I guess the upside is if a stranger has to come in momentarily to service something that is connected to the internet and needs internet for that reason, eg the boiler (and in theory, though still not working, the MVHR) are connected to the wifi, so boiler engineer. But it still seems overkill for that. The only other consideration might be that next month we have a 21 year old distant relative coming to stay. She might lock herself up in the guest room and stream HD tv all day, but would that really impact a 300MB connection?

Cheaper and easier sounds appealing. The only advantage of a managed switch that I think would apply to me is it might be helpful to give certain devices priority for download and upload speed, e.g. each AP should each get at least 15% of the available bandwidth and after that my PC should have priority over the kids' TV, etc. But is this really necessary with a fairly decent internet connection? Will my PC ever have to fight for bandwidth with other devices. In terms of usage: we plan to have two PCs and two TVs wired to the internet, at least two APs (possibly three), a couple of hubs that need ethernet connection (e.g. tado and phillips hue), a printer and a PoE camera. Then there will be at least 12 devices that are regularly using the wifi, including crucial smart switches and a smart doorbell, though I suppose this will grow as kids get older and start having their own devices.

Surely that’s just wasteful

I picked it because I want to power a Tado hub which is 5v without frying it. What PoE switch at the head end do you use @MJNewton?

Interesting… I had no idea this tech existed. Does that mean I can power my Tado hub (which is powered by a micro USB cable) with this Active PoE Splitter: https://amzn.eu/d/hpNsulI

Can you translate “dumb” in this context please? I need something with at least 8 ports because the 4 on my Virgin router are woefully insufficient.

Can you elaborate on this please. What are you tinkering with and why would I not need to?

very much doubt it.

Prior to joining this forum I was recommended a Netgear Orbi mesh system like the RBK852 and was going to do that. My preference is fit and forget which means something consumer friendly but that still works at a high spec, but if I had PoE capability that would help as it solves a couple of issues I have for an external IP camera and also to power to access points / mesh routers as the optimal positions for these are places where I forgot to include power sockets, albeit it might be possible to retrofit sockets now, as I think there is a power ring nearby.

So what’s been launched in the last 4 months that might dethrone Ubiquiti?

So through some fairly diligent purging schedules, I’ve managed to get the temperature in most of the loft down overnight to about 17.5C or 18C. Depending on how sunny it is during the day, it rises to about 25C to 26.5C by the late afternoon. I think an external awning blind or roller shutter on the east facing Velux will help delay the heat rise to much later on in the day. But what is the difference in solar shielding performance between: an external awning blind like this and a significantly more expensive external roller shutter like this The roller shutter is complete blackout, whereas I think the awning blind cuts out about 85% of light. Will that equate to the cheaper awning blind being 15% less effective than the roller shutter at reducing solar gain?

The law already says that. All goods must be fit for purpose. So as long as the supplier of the ASHP knows that the purpose you will use it for is to heat your home, there is an implied term in the contract that it is fit for that purpose. Ergo, always get the supplier to survey the house the ASHP is going to be fitted in. See https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2015/15/section/10/enacted

@AliG is right to say that you should check the deeds (for both your property and the property of the neighbour in question) but it is important to keep in mind that easements can also arise outside of the deeds. I can think of at least two types of easement that might have arisen here on which you could try to rely: 1) rights of way (on foot or by vehicle); 2) rights of access for maintenance purposes; Query though whether this is "maintenance". Also query whether you could circumvent all of this by just bringing in the materials through your house. Is that possible? Issues are likely to be RSJs and large items like sliding doors.

My suggested response: Dear Sirs I refer to your email of [date]. In your email you suggest that “Any use my clients have made of their own property or the passageway is entirely without relevance” as “It would not set any legal precedent on which [I] can rely". You appear to have misunderstood the point. My argument is that all residents on that side of [name of road] have a right of way over that passageway. Therefore, the fact that your client has made use of that passageway to cross other neighbour's land is entirely relevant since it supports my assertion that a right of way exists over the entire passageway, including your client's land, for all residents on that side of the road. I would therefore be relying on your client's use of that land as a matter of fact to support my legal argument, not as a legal precedent. Indeed, the fact that you yourself are referring to the “passageway” as such is telling. It is a passage that shows the way across your clients land for others to make use of to access their own properties. Your client’s position has no legal merit and your correspondence on this point is misconceived. It is patently obvious that your client's purported objection on the grounds that no right of way exists is a thinly veiled objection to my development proposals, as evidenced by his prior objection to my planning application, in a new guise. I urge your client to reconsider his position, failing which I will have to escalate matters to protect my rights, all of which remain expressly reserved. Obviously litigation is a costly endeavour, but I will resort to it if necessary and seek my costs of doing so from your client. Yours [@woz]

So it was @jack’s fault? Surely not

I’msure you must be gutted, but there must be a solution as to how to easily change grout colour. Particularly as you are trying to darken the colour. Maybe @nod can advise.

Alas no equivalent integration for Brink Flair. Though I probably wouldn't be able to get nerdy with it if there was. Many many years ago I took a programming course at university in C aimed at solving problems in computational mathematics. Failed miserably. It's the only programming I've ever done and I found it rather difficult. I hear most programming these days is easier than C, but the experience scarred me.

Yes, this is one of the main reason I wanted it for, although I wasn't going to link it in such a "smart" way. How to you feed those data points as inputs to your home automation?

The unit is located in an awkward to reach spot. So visiting the unit is something best avoided unless it's to change the filters. To monitor air quality and temperature and understand how the automatic features on the machine are working (e.g. the summer bypass) and experiment with settings etc. it's helpful to have access to all the data the machine gathers and tweak settings. All of that is much more easily done with the wifi app - not only is the machine located in an awkward to reach spot, but the control panel itself is pretty difficult to use, particularly if you have large fingers. I paid for wifi control, I want wifi.

I live in a semi detached house. I need a gate for my side passage to stop people just walking around the side of the house and into my back garden. I'm weighing up two options, a metal gate like this or a wrought iron gate, something like this. Ignoring all other differences and assuming exact same size (which would be about 2m high by 800mm wide) is it more secure to have something see through like the wrought iron gate because in that way once the robber climbs over he is still in view from the road, or is this consideration unlikely to make a difference? What have you installed in your side passage?

Ok thanks. I filed a complaint with the supplier/installer. Not heard back from them despite it being several days and despite their engineer scratching his head when he failed to get it registered on commissioning. Really pleased I spent an extra £££ for the wifi functionality, not!