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You are the type of LL to fit secret cameras in the bedrooms of your properties aren’t you?

Well I’ve ended up drilling about 70 holes into the thing, each hole has a diameter of 8mm so I’m hoping this will make somewhat of a difference. We are just storing bikes in there, no tools. Rust doesn’t really effect them as any bare metal is oiled. But mould did grow on some of the rubber bits. wish I’d known about the waterproofed floor, as we have laid a concrete floor, but there is no DPM. I guess I could paint a liquid DPM onto the floor, but probably won’t make a difference. If this doesn’t fix it, I will have to get a fan. There is actually some electrical lighting in the bike shed, so hopefully not too complex to run a feed off of that to power the fan, but I’m just a bit confused as to the practicality of such a solution. Would it need to be running 24hr a day or just come on a few times a day to clear the air?

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@Pocster why does your kitchen window look out onto a brick wall. Is this the “kitchen” in the Fritzl dungeon?

+1,, though depends how fat you are.

I have an Asgard steel bike shed. It approximately 1.85m long, 95cm wide and 1.2m high, so just over 2 cubic metres in volume. It consists of 4 steel sides (one of which is a door) and a flat roof, which I’ve covered in Seedum. It has ventilation holes at either end, but the holes on one ends have been obstructed by us building a low 80cm high wall in front of the shed. The shed contents get mouldy as soon as the temperature drops to autumn/winter temps. There is still a 6cm gap between the shed and the wall, but I suppose it’s much more sheltered from the wind, such that the obstructed holes aren’t doing their job. I’m hoping to fix this issue by drilling 1cm diameter holes into the shed, at a higher point on its walls, ie above where the 80cm high wall reaches. Is this likely to fix the issue, and how many holes should I drill? The fewer the better, but I will space them out at regular intervals.

Take a photo of the building, print it and hang it up in a museum. Then knock it down (the building, not the museum).

Why on Earth would the OP want to do that? Great way to piss off your neighbour, who you then have to live with until one of you dies or moves.

You will find a few on google. Here’s an example: https://keyfix.com/product/non-combustible-cavity-tray-lintel/?ppc_keyword=cavity trays with lead&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjMKqBhCgARIsAPDgWlx8CyNhgFmA730RIROMxpaQ2MGKnkndaf1HQZ5MjJug3wNxZHAFUg0aAgSrEALw_wcB

My builder assures me it was installed. I went through my architect’s photos from the build, but unfortunately they don’t capture that level of detail on that particular aspect. I don’t have much choice but to trust the builder is not spinning me a yarn.

Will the snubber/capacitor that was linked to earlier in the thread work, regardless of the voltage requirements of my LED?

I don’t, but I doubt anything has been done against regs, add the sparky was very good.

Maybe they aren’t demolishing it? Maybe they are converting it into something? Or extending it?

Yes, well hopefully this is now fixed. Only time will tell. We need lots of rain to test it. But if it’s fixed this easily then it will be another example of me worrying excessively over sh!t not with worrying about. Sorry to hear about your roof. That’s terrible!

Yes, it’s pretty maddening that this may have happened. I don’t know the exact design of the lintel and DPM but I understand it’s a lintel with an integrated cavity tray. Not sure exactly how deep into it the screw went, as presumably the cavity tray is at the top of the lintel, and the lintel must be pretty thick given it’s holding up lots of bricks. The window supplier was responsible for fitting, so it would have been their mistake. But it was compounded by lack of weep holes, which likely caused water to build up. The leak was not huge. Maybe 25ml of incoming water after heavy rain for many hours. So I’m hoping the weep vents will now allow the 25ml of moisture that built up to evaporate, but we shall see. Wondering if I should invest in that stormguard product someone linked, think it was @ProDave.

Don’t you need to do some differential equation to model the fact that the heat leaks out continuously not incrementally.

This is a pretty long flexible LED tube, but not so flexible that I’m keen to remove it from the recess in our ceiling and experiment. It’s odd, because although it’sa long LED tube, I’m pretty sure it runs off normal voltage, without a transformer.

update: first two weep vents went in last week, final three went in yesterday. So we have 5 now, each one spaced about 42cm apart from the other, above a cavity that is about 165cm wide, so just within the NHBC requirements (not that my house was built to that standard 😂). Was a very quick job. Could have been done in half a day, but weather required a different timetable. Looks pretty tidy: They also removed the screws that the window company has drilled upwards, and filled the holes with silicone. So fingers crossed that is the end of my leak. Let’s see. Query what to do about the damp looking bricks. It is actually not the bricks themselves, but the off white mortar that has gone a bit brown around a few bricks above the lintel. Is there any harm in waiting till the wall properly dries out, I expect no sooner than April next year given we are this side of winter, and then addressing that?

Where would the double pole switch go in my three way switching set up? Is it instead of one of the switches I have already or in addition?

I think I found what the issue is and the potential solution another forum: It's capacitive coupling between the wires between the two switches, this allows a small amount of electric current to make a side-run around the open switch contacts. This small current is enough to cause some CFLs to flash periodically and some LED fixtures to glow dimly. and to trigger non-contact voltage detectors. It can be cured by adding a lighting capacitor in parallel with the light fixture, providing a path to neutral sufficient to pass most of the ghost current rendering to voltage at the outlet too low to activate the lamp. Thoughts?

it's not even that bright! But me being the perfectionist that I am find it annoying. Weirdly, i just tried the light in that room and the issue didn't occur. I wonder if maybe it only happens after the light has been on for an hour or so, maybe it only "glows" after it has "heated up "(but even that would be surprising given it's an LED).

The mild irritation is that this is in our bedroom.

We have a long LED flexible tube light, made by ilumos, recessed in our bedroom ceiling. After being switched off, there is still a very very faint glow from it. Maybe 1% of its lumens. I googled this fault, and it appears there are several possible causes, from poor wiring, to poor bulbs to poor light switches: https://ledstore.pro/blog/2023/02/06/why-led-stays-on/#:~:text=Thanks to their high efficiency,to produce a dim light. the light in question can be switched on or off from three different light switches, all using the same brand of light switch, which I believe is this: https://www.corston.com/products/intermediate-toggle-antique-brass?variant=39293017751649&bcndyn=d2lkOjQ4OHxjaWQ6NTY5&gad_id=&utm_campaign=Google_Ads&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgK2qBhCHARIsAGACuzl1FlNR3r1YE3F-6TPccW9ae0fi-GGOtwnMByEOeoQZSo5eXcBeDy4aAoBbEALw_wcB That switch is made in China, and although it was very expensive I suspect the manufacturer focused its efforts on the brass switch plate rather than the internal switch module. The wiring is all brand new (less than 2 years old) so I’m hoping it’s not that. Can anybody recommend a high quality switch module that I could swap out for the three switches to see if this is the cause? It needs to be a toggle switch, not a rocker.

Mvhr might help. how old are windows?

Agree. mvhr is good, but for various other reasons, not as the dominant heating system. If you went down this route, wouldn’t the increased airflow dry out the place too much, such that you would need an enthalpy exchanger thingy as well as a heat exchanger?