Andeh

Perfect, thanks guys!.. Would 1/2" be a sensible estimation of the thread on all the kit?

I'm building an outdoor shower. The things you do when you've finished building a house.... 😁 I've bought a kit online, and am assuming a 1/2" thread to 15mm John guest pipework for the actual water works. However, the rain head is just the shower head, arm with I presume 1/2" male thread.... Then nothing? What part do I need to connect this to the John guest fittings, and also surface mount to hold the rain head? Pic attached, on the right you can see the large bar to hold the shower head, terminating in just a male thread. Second pic is the woodwork, stood vertical, which I eventually want it all installed on/behind. Thanks!

Husqvarna is you just want the job done without any fuss, and no next gen tech, and good warranty, customer service etc... But ££££. mamotion luba types are the opposite option, high tech, more advanced, in theory probably better... But chinese and relatively young to market. But ££

You can always run the pipework for AC, and first fix it.... Then in future years install the expensive bits either end. Could do it all for a few £100... MVHR is too invasive and there is no retrofitting.

Brilliant, well done! I'm wondering if I could do it alone, but at 4m x 6m ideal size for the space, it's tricky imagining it with young kids, and a wife who would happily support but less hands on. How and what did you plan it on? Any ideas or cost vs buying new?

This!

FWIW our big sliders, sat on mortar, are a collosal thermal bridge.

If its just a solid window, without movement... You could just pack it with more plastic packers to add rigidity, and then use construction adhesive to glue them all tightly together, then expanding foam around the rest of it? It's certainly gunna be a lot better insulation wise then mortar, and will still create strong static strength.

I wanted expanding foam, but builder insisted on packing it tight with mortar to ensure the packers and window stayed secure. Looking back, I'm pleased I let him. I used expanding foam at the top and sides though. With the movement of the door, if it nudges those packers out post patio install ya'll in for a world of trouble.

As much soft stuff as you can... Rugs, large pictures, curtains, soft chairs, etc. We have similar, and it isn't so much the echo but the whole environment is "noisier" - can't think of a way to explain it , so two convos in the room are harder, kids are amplified etc. It's obviously worth it for the impact of the room, and how special it is as a space... But everything in life has a drawback...

Low right wire fence in front of it to keep the sheep away?

Ours stopped once we confirmed demolished, then restarted with a new valuation when it was livable. We did a knock down and full rebuild, that 20% VAT saving was pretty helpful.!

Urgh, so with hot tap open I depressurised it all. No water flowing. Applied electric pumo,which pressured it and hot water flowed from open tap. I kept going for 5mins,and never got a pressure rise in the cylinder. Just stayed at 0.95 bar. Is that a dead tank then?

Thanks, I see the point now! I'll give it a go Friday when I'm next free

Hmm, so the tap was left open for 60 seconds or so with cold shut off. I was pumping and pressure falling per previous message. However, when I shut the tap I was able to pump it up to 3 bar very slowly, but it seemed to be steady and touch wood was left at bang on 3 bar. Opening the hot taps and cold water back on, all seems to flow normally. Do you think I need to do anything now? Or redo the whole excersise with hot tap open fully for the entire duration?

Well, i turned off the water... And opened a hot tap. I then proceeded to try and pump up the tank... Much to my horror the more I pumped, the lower the pressure dropped. Was starting to really worry. Then I realised the hot tap was still running, and I was effectively pumping the water out.... 😁 Tap closed, and back up to 3 bar... Fingers crossed it stops the water release now. Thanks for the guidance!

Erm...... 🙃 Let me come back to you tomorrow once I've got home and tried it again. Thanks!

I'm having a release of water down the discharge pipe/tundish, and as it's fresh water it's not from the heating circuit. The heating circuit suffered identical failure modes and glycol water release down tundish, a few months ago, due to a rusted through pressure tank. Replacing the tank with a recharged one resolved that issue. With it now reoccurring with fresh water it has me thinking my pressure tank has failed. I tried the nipple on the top, and pressing down on it didn't release any air... So I'm assuming it needs to be recharge. I've tried two bike pumps, but neither seem to work, I don't think they are pushing the pin down on the nipple... But the fact they manage it on a bike has me unsure? Is there a knack or technique I'm missing here?

I also really like chemical anchors! 🥰 I'm almost disappointed I don't have more stuff to bolt down with it. It's a hard life post-build... When you run out of fun stuff to sink your teeth into...

Keeping everything in folders, electronically ideally, with a systematic naming and numbering system is key I think. We only had 40-50 odd receipts though, all electronic originally.

Yep, we found the whole system really good! Excel sheet list, evidence with matched titles to line item. Item, source, price, vat etc etc matched them over to their online system and uploaded, and submitted. Have to say, it worked really well.

Our plant/utility room has the exact same 'problem'. Nothing you can really do about it, everything you listed gives off heat and its all stored together. Just makes for a very good drying room for the washing.

We're 2 years in, cem floor no matting ... No issues!

I'd be looking to seek forgiveness, not ask for permission here! Opening that can of worms of permissions and approvals l will take months and months and months and months.....

I think (!) distance to road is governed by not blocking traffic whilst waiting for it to open. Ours is about 5m from memory.