Andeh

Urgh, so with hot tap open I depressurised it all. No water flowing. Applied electric pumo,which pressured it and hot water flowed from open tap. I kept going for 5mins,and never got a pressure rise in the cylinder. Just stayed at 0.95 bar. Is that a dead tank then?

Thanks, I see the point now! I'll give it a go Friday when I'm next free

Hmm, so the tap was left open for 60 seconds or so with cold shut off. I was pumping and pressure falling per previous message. However, when I shut the tap I was able to pump it up to 3 bar very slowly, but it seemed to be steady and touch wood was left at bang on 3 bar. Opening the hot taps and cold water back on, all seems to flow normally. Do you think I need to do anything now? Or redo the whole excersise with hot tap open fully for the entire duration?

Well, i turned off the water... And opened a hot tap. I then proceeded to try and pump up the tank... Much to my horror the more I pumped, the lower the pressure dropped. Was starting to really worry. Then I realised the hot tap was still running, and I was effectively pumping the water out.... 😁 Tap closed, and back up to 3 bar... Fingers crossed it stops the water release now. Thanks for the guidance!

Erm...... 🙃 Let me come back to you tomorrow once I've got home and tried it again. Thanks!

I'm having a release of water down the discharge pipe/tundish, and as it's fresh water it's not from the heating circuit. The heating circuit suffered identical failure modes and glycol water release down tundish, a few months ago, due to a rusted through pressure tank. Replacing the tank with a recharged one resolved that issue. With it now reoccurring with fresh water it has me thinking my pressure tank has failed. I tried the nipple on the top, and pressing down on it didn't release any air... So I'm assuming it needs to be recharge. I've tried two bike pumps, but neither seem to work, I don't think they are pushing the pin down on the nipple... But the fact they manage it on a bike has me unsure? Is there a knack or technique I'm missing here?

I also really like chemical anchors! 🥰 I'm almost disappointed I don't have more stuff to bolt down with it. It's a hard life post-build... When you run out of fun stuff to sink your teeth into...

Keeping everything in folders, electronically ideally, with a systematic naming and numbering system is key I think. We only had 40-50 odd receipts though, all electronic originally.

Yep, we found the whole system really good! Excel sheet list, evidence with matched titles to line item. Item, source, price, vat etc etc matched them over to their online system and uploaded, and submitted. Have to say, it worked really well.

Our plant/utility room has the exact same 'problem'. Nothing you can really do about it, everything you listed gives off heat and its all stored together. Just makes for a very good drying room for the washing.

We're 2 years in, cem floor no matting ... No issues!

I'd be looking to seek forgiveness, not ask for permission here! Opening that can of worms of permissions and approvals l will take months and months and months and months.....

I think (!) distance to road is governed by not blocking traffic whilst waiting for it to open. Ours is about 5m from memory.

Yeah, I do agree. Context is important.... Last house the boiler was under the master bedroom, and we had a faulty zone valve which triggered it randomly, plumber miss diagnosed it so I lost a lot of sleep with it firing randomly and me being twitched about it. I accept zone valves can do the same to ASHP, but I still carry frustrations over that period of home ownership!

Was a tricky decision, as I knew nothing about them and have always had gas in the past. I love my technology, but worried about earlier adopting, and shortage of skilled people on them. Had gas available and on site already.. So seemed mad not too just keep it simple. Even with UFH and the Grant... I still wasn't sure. Architect and builder both looked at me as if I was mad when I hesitated over ASHP, and explained the above.... I generally declined but said I'd think about it. The builder went ahead and costed and put it into the plans anyway. oooooooh were they correct. I love the ASHP, it works well, is cheaper then gas, with smart tariffs it's just brilliant. No gas standing charge , no big noisy boiler inside the house, no stupidly high flow temp to then try and reduce for the UFH.

There is a massive law of diminishing returns! I figure U values of high teens is the point at which it becomes futile to pour more money into it, as ROI becomes many many decades. The irony we find, the house is so well Insulated the floor feels cold during mild periods when the UFH doesn't come on as house hasn't dropped below 21 degrees.... So we end up artificially boosting the heating to cancel our the cool floor feeling. Cool floor and warm ambient = feel chilly. We also have a huge amount of average glazing, so that probably doesn't help. All that, and we still spent several £grands increasing all the insulation to mid teen U values.

Got more pics? Layout, tell us more. Congratulations, our moving in anniversary will be this July, amazing how much you look back as if it was all a dream.

We ran out of monies building the house, so the single garage that existed with the original bungalow was left as is. 3.5m x 6m low 30 degree ish pitch. Recently we now want to tidy it up. I got a quote for £6500 to strip the roof back, and replace with a warm roof single sikflex membrane to match the house. Same company who did the house, and they were brilliant. I like the idea of a warm roof as it visually ties in with the existing house, and gives some insulation to the garage, which will eventually become my workshop. I'm pretty handy with most DIY job, so I can't help but think I could give it a go... However the sheer price of what they're charging has me concerned I'm underestimating it. I figure it's just a matter of stripping off tiles, felt back to A frames. 18mm ply the roof, 50mm PIR, ply wood again, prime and apply membrane. Soffit and fascias screwed in. A long weeks worth of work for me, but I don't want to stitch myself up! Any thoughts from the group? (ignore the odd roof coverings, it's me checking water ingress)

Thank you! Any benefits to adding the SBR to the self leveller?

Thanks, that'll be the plan! Is there anything more I can do for belt and braces, as it will be driven over daily? Additives to the SLC, priming with more then water etc?

We had a pressure drop similar to that, and it was a failed expansion vessel. Some damage had allowed it to rust through.

Thanks Conor! That is what I was hoping to hear. Track sits slightly higher, but I'll mask and dam it off slightly and level either side of it.

That's what I'm leaning towards, building a small dam with foam tape or equiv and fill the void? Any ultra high strength ones? Should I prime the floor first?

We have had to have our garage door track replaced due to issue with the sliding door sticking. Hormann & garage door company have been brilliant over the years, but I do now need to try and tidy up the 'final solution' which was grind the floor flat and relay the track. I now need to tidy up this small trench, with the track installed... It is entirely no removable. I just want to improve it visually, and will then repaint with epoxy floor paint. Any tips? Thin concrete mix? Reinforced? Any other clever ideas? Thanks....

Pretty sure the two drain thing is to ensure that if there is ever a blockage or excessive flow, it cant back up into the over flow. We have it going into two drains, that then combine into the same as it exist the building into an external drain. No issues in 2.5 years of operation.