JohnMo

Plus additional cost and more to go wrong than needed. Did find a system than messed with flow rates rather than on/off valves, but by the time you finished, it add a £1000 just in parts. What benefit is questionable.

Really? Just get on get it done.

Our edge trim is two layers of 10x2 timber, so I just used M10 x 75mm hex drive flanged coach screws. Used an impact driver to drive them in.

Mine was outside in a high wind load area, plus a massive drop in areas. Face mounted on timber structure.

Depends how you do it. The first study (paid for by the tax payer) was with Peterhead power station. The whole flue gas was captured. It was compressed and catalytic broken down, to hydrogen and few other products, the waste product re-compressed and injected subsea offshore.

I did similar but at 300mm centres, just didn't pipe under internal walls, kitchen units or beds and only did 100mm concrete.

Why not make something self supporting and not touch the walls at all, something like this, but make it nice and solid

The trouble with that, is the long delay in room temp dropping and floor warming enough to recover room temperature - especially on a low temp thick screed system. But it is strange that a self learning linear actuator doesn't exist for UFH. Self balancing exist, but they don't do what you describe, they just change flow rate to maintain dT, not room temperature.

I have an MVHR in a hall cupboard, but with a bedroom either side. My walls are wooden stud walls. The mounting face for the MVHR, has a double layer of 18mm ply. The stud walls are filled with Rockwool Flexi and 12.5mm plasterboard elsewhere. No vibration and zero noise. I did not use anti vibration mounts.

Do you have them? What sort of time delay do you get if switching by motion sensor?

I bought mine from here https://www.made2measure.co.uk/glass-balustrades/?mh_keyword=balcony glazing system&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=12052583245&gbraid=0AAAAADv1etNOPVsB6l6fBCLWEMa72dGOx&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnJHMBhDAARIsABr7b844WI-m1FTO32K-Blto5enxEUMAp2YkU1fodvh8LLpF7khwS1hhwYMaAhGSEALw_wcB Go to the useful information section, all the design certification is there, with approved mounting schemes for the various products etc. Just bought the appropriate hardware, downloaded the certificate and structural engineer signed it all off. Zero thought, fully approved, simple.

We just did 15mm to manifold and then 15mm to each wet room - 22mm bonkers - plumber not really understanding anything.

But does generate on a dull wet day like we have today, unlike solar. Big battery, PV and a diesel generator with waste heat recovery straight into a thick screed floor - job done

Yep, UK electricity prices are almost purely based on gas wholesale price. As you say until that fact is changed, no change to electric prices, irrespective of cost to actually generate. Trouble is nuclear is the devils electric, with millennium of hidden charges and costs two to three times the gas price, without the hidden costs.

So final update on commissioning. 1. Circulation pump has 3 modes AUTO/ON/OFF. In AUTO mode, the pump speed modulates and it goes off when no call for heat. In ON mode pump runs full speed all the time even when no call for heat. With thick screed and a fan coil, AUTO mode for pump does not work well, flow rate goes down to circa 6L/min and controller can't cope and under and overshoots modulation. It cannot find find the correct running mode. In OFF mode ASHP trip with flow error. Have set to ON and it seems to work well. 2. Control mode can be either dT mode, fixed speed (speed can be selected), or dT control with circulation pump in full speed fixed speed (depending on point 1. and setting to ON above). Have set to dT control. 3. Target dT is selectable, best one my heating setup is to target dT 4. dT2, 3 and 5 didn't respond as well. dT actually sits nearer 2 to 3 but controller seems happy with that. 4. Restart hysterisis, found the controller reacts badly to a premature restart, found I was chasing issues due to forcing a start early. dT4 for restart was acceptable, dT 3 lead to unstable running as the heat couldn't dump heat well. 5. Volumiser in, out or part out of system doesn't make much difference, have left in place. 6. Heat meter reads 0.6 degs higher temperatures, than the Haier controller 7. Final WC curve is 12 OAT 22 flow, -5 OAT 31 flow. 8. Controller set up to use 3rd party thermostat, this allow a 'stove on' over ride, to switch heat pump off when stove is on. It also allows a single switch to move between heat and cool on ASHP and thermostat. It also allows cooling to be temperature driven. Wiring is, from house to wiring centre - 2 core cable for winter/summer change over, wireless switch from thermostat Then from wiring centre to heat pump a 2 core cable to heat pump. No DHW connected. 4 degs outside delivering an average CoP so far today of 5, currently doing 5.2.

Won't make a bit of difference - sorry Why is it difficult to fix, keep building above 16, ideally warmer, then you air movement from outside to inside

That's what you get doing a retrofit. And reusing 22mm Hep2O pipes, 12m each way to cylinder. Original install was combi boiler.

I powered mine from the 3 port valve as it was only needed during DHW. But you may have a zone 1 pump control in your wiring centre? So control as you would if there was a buffer in the system, then call or no call for heat, the main and secondary circulator do the same thing

Titon HRV also sold by Beam under a different badge and lower price point. You can get enthalpy exchangers if you want

So what are you replacing it with? Enthalpy or normal heat exchanger?

Statistics got to love them, but they can produce some rubbish information. You could add minor events like the Russian invasion of Ukraine. Sent gas prices through the roof. Building big nuclear generator, which the tax payer seems to be paying for and also adding to electric bills.

I filled mine with water glycol mix and pressurised - they are not get crushed by anything. My pipes were installed as part of the foundations, so pre walls. Survived a Scottish winter.

I did similar with my super long DHW heating loop. Think it pulled an extra 15 to 20W

185m loop is very long, it will dominate the system pressure drop I removed glycol a year or so ago, system flow jumped from 18 to 22L/min. Add inhibitor and biocide to system, use only one manufacturer for both - do not mix as you may have chemical incompatibility issues.

From the other thread before it closes