Ttw
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Posts
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Everything posted by Ttw
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Unfortunately I couldn't wait for the 8-12 weeks planning application time. The roof is as follows however I can change for a better idea. C24 47x145 joists, Vapour barrier, 18mm osb 100mm insulation 11mm osb Rubber roof finish If you could throw as many ideas that would suit carrying the flat roof joists but keeping the depth to around 70mm......id be absolutely massively grateful
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Its for a garden room and needs to be 2500mm under the permitted development ruling.... I should've gone for doors less than 2100 high that would've allowed for more options for a lintel. The doors were pretty much half price though and I'm a sucker for a bargain
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I have an opening of 2500mm and need to ideally use a 100mmx65 concrete lintel. My concern is will it be OK if my roof joist sit directly on the lintel at 400mm centres. The length of the joists are 3300mm. Any advice will be appreciated
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Hi all, I've had some pretty amazing replies to previous posts and thought I'd best carry on picking your brains. Im building a garden room under the permitted development route. It's 2 skinned using concrete block. I've kept the dpc as low as possible but worrying about keeping the finished height within the 2500mm. Ive got french doors to go in that are 2130 including the cill which doesn't leave much for the flat roof. The flat roof including 100mm insulation, 2 sheets of ply, timbers to span 3400 and internal skin plus the required fall for a rubber roof. The dpc is about 120mm above ground level. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Much appreciate your comment and yes it totally makes sense that damp won't be an issue. The next issue is finishing the build and keeping the overall height under 2500mm... I guess that's another topic
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Thanks Russell, I thought not but pretty sure the visqueen dpm would be pierced by the 40mm crushed stone. The second dpm doesn't run up the 25mm insulation upstand but hopefully it will keep any damp at bay.
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I've had a concrete slab poored today and just found out from the contractor that he did the following. 100mm 40mm to dust compacted with a a dpm (visqueen thick guage) layed straight on top lapping up onto the inner skin of blockwork. HE DID NOT USE A BLINDING OF SAND instead he layed another layer of dmp on top of the insulation but not lapping the wall. Then he poored the 100mm concrete slab. In short Crusher run compacted Dpm lapping inner skin Insulation Dpm Concrete Am i likely to suffer damp issues? Fortunately its quite dry round with sandy conditions and great drainage. Sorry to be long winded in my description.
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Definitely worth doing right the first time so there's no regr..... I've done that in previous extensions and regret not making it right the first time.
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I was pretty shocked too, fortunately I only need 50m2
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Unfortunately I'm not able to build with such a large cavity, what type of building is the one you are talking about using a 300mm cavity?
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300mm in the roof space? Surly not a cavity! I agree with doing the best so there's no regrets
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Unfortunately my garden isn't of a big enough size to move it in, I'm basically building it the full width of my garden and stepping it forward enough to get a fence up at the rear if required however the neighbours are OK with staring at a block wall however I'll be able to get round with enough space to render or clad it of some sort. It just seems easier to build off the slab.
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I'm looking at ordering 100mm insulation for a new build annex (100mm cavity) I've come across Knauf earthwool dritherm 32 and dritherm 37. The 37 is quite a bit cheaper and wondering if anyone has any advice. I've been told that if using a full slab to go double the thickness of what kingspan would need to be.
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That's great news, thanks for confirming it for me. See how my bones hold up to throwing blocks about now. Cheers again mate.
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Thanks for your input Russell, I'm going to do it to the spec that I had on an extension to my property but not able to build in the same way in terms of access. Definitely agree with getting it right first. What's your opinion on me building the external block work then filling the cavity with rock wool type inso and then building the internal block work up to it? It sounds simple but I've been out the industry for 10 years and don't want to miss any tricks.....my memory is like a sieve
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Thanks Declan Its just if I was to build the outside skin first then I'd not be able to have the kingspan on the inner skin and doubtful that that's acceptable? What's your opinion on using a good quality rockwool and filling the cavity? Appreciate your input
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I cant get access to next doors or the adjacent property to build my garden room. I'm wondering if it's possible to build it all off the slab within the new build (8mx4m) Im trying to find out if its doable by building the external block work first then using a full fill cavity insulation as I'll not be able to use the original idea of 50mm kingspan. (cavity 100mm) Any advice would be massively appreciated.
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I am in process of doing a garden room that will be built in mind of becoming an annex in years to come. I'm unable to lay 3 elevations from outside my property and wondering if I can do the external block work first from within the build (off the slab) I've ordered 50mm Kingspan insulation but because of needing to build this way would I be best swapping for some form of full fill cavity rock wool type insulation (100mm cavity) Any help would be massively appreciated. How have I never used a forum before.. The info on here is amazing