elite

Hard to tell from the pics, but I would say bumblebees - certainly doesn't look like honey bees Bumbles will only use a nest for one season, so this was probably last year and they shouldn't return Pic 2 of the second post, looks a bit like the base for a destroyed wasps nest

Have you considered insulated metal panels? They acheive a decent span, though the detail around the gable doors might be complicated

Recessed magnetic contact sensor / reed switch as used in alarms - depends on your doors / windows, then just need someway to make that info available to your blinds

Chicken keeper here, if you have chickens, rats will try and move in. If your neighbour will cooperate get them to minimise the amount of food available - treadle feeders are good, but take a bit of training for the chickens Locate the runs they the rats are using and place bait boxes across them, make sure you wear gloves when handling to avoid making them smell of humans. I've found the grain bait much more attractive to the rats than blocks, but of course make sure non-target species can't get access. Keep bait topped up for at least a week after they stop taking it. Rats are naturally cautious so it may take some time for them to trust a new food source or strange new objects in their run. If you can find someone with a good ratting dog, they will have the time of their life

CT1 or some similar sealant on the outside where the glass meets the rubber? But will only ever be a temporary fix

Not a sparky... I do grey as neutral and black as CPC (both sleeved at both ends to identify) Don't forget to make sure your armour is connected to CPC too and you have continuity - wiska do some nice clamp bars I'd use wagos to connect the cores, but do check they are rated to at least 32 amps (in your case)

Yes I would want an upstand, EPDM should be lapped up the upstand and then flashing applied on top

Perfect - thanks

I'd probably go with a tile backer with SLC - marmox claim 40 tonnes / m2 when tiled, not sure about LVT. They say you can use any thickness board, unless onto floorboards which then has to be minimum of 10mm. So thickness really depends on how much insulation you want vs how much height you want to lose You probably only need 3mm SLC, unless the floor isn't level A much more painful option would be to dig down and get a decent amount in the slab

I've had an EV charger installed at the renovation, I am currently with Octopus so was looking to swtich to Octopus go, however they are not offering it as the smart meter is not communicating with them (I don't think it has ever successfully sent or received data) - the location has terrible mobile connectivity I understand they have to try and make it work, but I was wondering if anyone has had experience with this? Seems a bit rubbish if I can't benefit from smart tarrifs just becase the DCC network coverage is crap

Yes, on my roof I multitooled the fascia flush with the OSB - my buld up is on your other thread: It is usually good to keep related posts on the same thread, so people can see the progress and stops you having to repeat the same info. Hope the roof goes well

At work we target 24 degrees for our onprem server room which has been calculated (not by me), to be the most efficient temp to run at, so I wouldn't be too concerned at 27 to 30 in a home environment, though not being able to shut the door would be an issue for me. What temp does it get to with the door shut? Is there any scope to increase extract or even partition between boiler etc and tech? I think 40 degrees is the max ambient temp for the UDM Pro, I expect the internal temp to maybe hit 60-70 deg under load

I'm not sure what you are proposing here - can you post a diagram / photo? I have just replaced a roof on an outbuilding (no furring), this was my buildup: Joist -> OSB -> VCL -> Insuation -> OSB -> Rubber Fascias were fitted after the deck

Very similar to my first house, in our case we were planning to go into the loft with a rear dorma, which might be trickier for you with the orientation of the stairs. In the end we decided it wasn't worth it and ended up moving. I'd probably want to retain the full bathroom on the first floor, so would add the third bedroom on the ground floor, but this may not be practical if we are talking a young family.

I'd check both their deeds and yours. What are their access rights, can these be maintained while work is carried out? As Roudtuit says I'd agree it is reasonable, give notice and do it. It sounds like it will be complete quickly and they are unlikely to want a dispute with a neighbour if they are in the process of selling