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I just asked the designer at MBC how big the pipe was and whether there was space for both it and the sound insulation and that was the information he gave me. He could well be wrong and you be right! I think in terms of space, I need to make the wall thicker. Then it's a case of which method is most cost effective but I think the acoustic plaster board might as well be the first decision.

Yes, I could use acoustic plasterboard. Is this better than putting something around the pipe?

If you had more space to play with, what would you use as insulation? My architect is like bloody molasses and I want to get the MBC drawings signed off asap so I'm doing his job for him and trying to determine whether I would be better having a wider stud wall or whether the standard depth is ok

We have an SVP running through a stud wall - I believe the SVP is 100mm and the stud wall is 127mm internally. What's the best approach for implementing appropriate acoustic insulation?

I'm not sure to be honest - it's an MBC frame so I suppose I get what I'm given!

Yes, I had noticed that the 'traditional' way wasn't particularly good! I came across a few postings back on ebuild where the windows had been installed flush with the outer OSB of the frame - I think Jeremy's is like this and I've also seen a schematic from MBC done the same way. But, I also read comments where people preferred a wider external reveal than this would give. All of the first floor windows in our build will either have render or timber cladding around them. On the ground floor they will have stone slips cladding around them - with the slips affixed to blockwork. The only caveat to this is that one GF window will have render around it and 2 windows and the front door have stone to one side and render the other! (it looks better than it sounds). I think it would look better if the 'rendered' windows had a deep reveal, so putting the window in the middle of the frame would be good. However, I have a bit of a detailing issue with a stone reveal, as by the time I've fitted 25mm battens, 12mm cement board, 5mm adhesive and 40mm stone slip I'd be covering the entire width of the window frame. I know I could always fit an additional 40mm trim to the window, effectively making the frame wider but it feels like I'm fudging it! If the windows are fitted flush with the outer face of the timber frame, the stone problem goes away as I can complete any small reveal detail with an aluminium trim profile. The downside is that the rendered reveals are much smaller - this may or may not be an issue. Thinking about it (typing this is helping actually), what would be good to see is images of rendered walls where the windows are fitted flush to the outer face of the timber frame, as I think getting the detailing right with windows in the middle of the frame could be a right pain!

When fitting the windows into a timber frame, does the window normally sit in the middle of the insulation or flush with the external face of the structure? I'm trying to work out the detailing for my stone cladding and the location of the window is going to affect what I do

That's good to know as I've selected an Integra window in our MBC build

I'm liking the shed idea!

Cheers guys. What did the MBC guys do with their gear whilst on site, for example while doing the slab?

Thanks Jeremy. The best quote I've had so far is with Protek and I'll probably set it up for 12 months so it should be enough to cover me without needed to extend. Did you get cover for hired plant at all? I assume this could include scaffold and toilet but I am assuming!

Fingers crossed we'll be breaking ground next month so I'm planning what I'll need on site. Electric and water supplies have been ordered and the groundworker is waiting for the nod, but what about site hut and/or storage? What is normally expected and what must I supply? We don't live on site and as it's an MBC timber frame I'm expecting it to go up very quickly, but I realise that at the moment I've not made provision for the guys to store anything nor make a brew. Thanks in advance www

What have you guys covered yourselves for under site insurance? Below is a list of the items I need to consider, but I'm not really sure whether I need cover, nor at what level, for things like hired plant. The property will be an MBC timber frame with groundworks done by an external company and we don't live on site. I'm intending doing as little of the work myself as possible! Owned Plant - £0.00 Hired Plant - £0.00 Caravans & Site Huts - £0.00 Contents of Caravans & Site Huts - £0.00 Personal Possessions – Up to £5,000.00 Personal Accident - Up to £20,000.00 Bone Fracture – Up to £400.00 Employers Liability – Up to £10m Public Liability - £5,000,000.00 Products Liability - £5,000,000.00

At £1800 for an architect, you aren't going to get much "architecting" done. Leaving aside what has been offered, what is it that you want? Everyone has a different view about what they need and the value that an architect (or architectural technologist) brings to the party. At the most basic level you could sketch something up that you like the look of and then just get someone to draw it up - that doesn't need an architect and if it works for you then it shouldn't cost much at all. However, at the other end of the scale if you want significant design input with the aim of creating something with more "wow" then don't underestimate the value of a good architect - and don't underestimate how much will cost either. With our architectural technologist he charges a fixed fee up to planning permission submission - that includes iterative concept designs and detailed designs. You could stop there (many do), but if you want more detailed design done (including building regs drawings) then there is another fixed fee for that too. There are also other elements that he can help with, for a cost. Only you can decide if the money is worth it. For us it is - there is no way I would have come up with anything anywhere near as good as what he did. His not-insignificant costs though are more than outweighed (5-10 fold) by the expected increase in value once it's finished.

Thanks Hugh. Great advice and much appreciated

Some really useful info there guys - really, really appreciated I'm probably guilty of trying to think of too much, too soon and should probably hold back a little but I find getting little bits of information here and there is really helping me plan the various elements. Given what you know now (and based on the fact we're getting MBC in), would you suggest we wait until the frame is up and the roof slated before getting the facias/soffits measured or just order off the plans so that we can get it done as quickly as possible? I don't really want to be paying for the scaffolding any longer than I need to but happy to keep it up if that's the better/safer way!

Cheers Hugh. This is the one area that has me in cold sweats! The soffits and facias I'm ok with, it's all the coping and flashing detail. The architect has suggested that I need additional detail drawings (££££) but I feel he just has to think about it and explain it a bit better. I may well just get the top work done first while the scaffold is up and then tackle the rest later.

Cheers Terry. My plan is to use that system based on what I think you'd posted on the other site

For those of you that have used some architectural aluminium details on your house, did you get quotes and place your order based on your plans or did you get them out to measure once the house was up? So far I'm looking at Dales Eaves and Guttercrest - can anyone recommend any other suppliers or installers?

I met them on a stand at the NEC show recently and when they asked if there was anything they could help with I just told them I wanted a Premium 2 and that I could get it from Denmark or Czech Republic for £xxxx and that if they wanted a sale they should call/email me the following week with their best price. I got an email a few days later. I haven't followed it up yet though as I'm not sure whether to go that route or normal MVHR with and arrange cooling in another way. Out of interest, what cooling do you get from the Sommerbox?

To be fair, I got a UK price for the Genvex Premium 2 of £5,550 delivered - about £500 more than from Denmark from memory. Ignore list prices - there's always a deal

How long did it take you?

Is this the right link to start the process off (Openreach), or do you initiate it through BT first? https://www.formwize.com/run/survey3.cfm?idx=505d04010e0f00

I so wish there was another option...

Mods - please move this thread if it's in the wrong area Thinking ahead a little, we will need a new BT connection. There is a pole directly across the road which has overhead lines running to the neighbours' houses so I'm assuming that I too would also have to have an overhead line. I don't really want this if I can avoid it as I want to bring the line into our ground floor plant room via a duct through the slab and I don't want to drop a cable down the face of the house to be able to do that. There isn't any decent information out there that I've found so does anyone know of any general principles or maybe give a view as to what is likely to be possible (or not)? Given that the pole is on the other side of the road, I'm guessing my options might need ££££...