stearman65

Already been water checked, but the pipes from the boiler aren't accessible without tearing the kitchen apart. If you look carefully at the balloon on the PRV outlet pipe, the neck is in 2 parts as though it's split after being pressurised but stayed on the pipe., I've told the agent if WB don't find a fault this time we're moving. But it's been over 3 months of stressful living. If we do leave I'll be suing them for our cost & a bit thrown in for stress. I've got a dossier of 70 A4 pages of email conversations between us. My brief thinks I have a good case Pics of balloon attached..

The boiler went pop again last night, up until 2 getting it re-pressurised & writing the agent a snotty letter. Worcester Bosch coming on their 5th visit since new years eve on Friday. Put a show together on youtube see the link. Started to look for another home, don't think they'll ever fix this one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhckWso6z7U

Hi Temp The set back does work using the switch & the LEDs change, but the difference in temperature fluctuates between 4 & 10 degrees in the rooms I have thermometers in, which is why I don't want to use it but just have the boiler switch off between midnight & 6am 7 days per week. Regs Eric.

You must be burning the midnight oil? The SET BACK mode is a manual operation by the user from the 3 position switch on the side of the 'stat, 1. switch at top constant, 2. mid position set back, 3. bottom position off. Pictures attached taken last night before I went to bed & this morning. 'Stat pic, switch in set back mid position. Note boiler pressure down to .6 bar last night, just above the fail pressure. Reg's Eric.

Hi Temp. This is a rented apartment & I can't do anything without the agents say so. IMO the only thing that needs correcting is to alter the connections in the clock. I haven't seen how the TC-O2 on my system is wired, but I do know when the guy installed it he added the optional link. If you look at terminals 4 & 5, one is normally open & one normally closed. I think these two connections are the key why the boiler cycles all night, one of these is on the wrong terminal. The clock reads on & off at the correct days & times, it just doesn't switch off the boiler when the clock reads off. I just don't have the b***s to whip the front off & switch the wires in case I blow the whole shooting match or lose the current settings. Regs Eric. Maincor_TC-02_Instructions_(1).pdf

No probs, we all have those at times. Done some more research today, found the WBosch say maximum outlet temperature at the boiler, 50C for UFH. Also mine has a Heatmiser UH3 wiring centre & the clock they've fitted is the wrong one according to the wiring diagram. TC-02 fitted, should be TM4-TS. Also looks like they've wired the TC-02 wrong & that's why the boiler cycles all night. Reg's Eric. Maincor_TC-02_Instructions_(1).pdf TM4_TS.pdf Heatmiser-UH3-Wiring-Centre.pdf

The PRV & expansion tank have been changed by WB, the agents engineer fitted a balloon on the PRV outlet twice, first time it inflated & the tank & PRV were changed. As of now the static water pressure has dropped below 1 bar in a week from re-pressurising the balloon is flat, no sign of inflation. WB says re-pressurise if below 1 bar. I believe the DHW header is connected to the sink outlet & can't be seen or checked, if that is the reason, do you know how it can be checked. Are you referring to my Worcester Bosch Greenstar 32 compact? Haven't seen anything about that in the user guide. Thanks Stearman65. Greenstar_CDi_Compact_Combi_ErP_Operating_Instructions_(1).pdf

Just read this & my WB Greenstar 32 compact has similar problems, but on a wet screeded UFH system. Could I assume there is an air sensing thermostat somewhere? or are there more in different rooms. If there are you could check the differential (temp on / off). If it's 1 degree C & it's re-settable, set it to 2 C, that could be an easy fix. Alternatively if your room 'stat hasn't got an adjustable diff,' fit one that does, you can get one from Heatmiser for around £28. DS1-Lv2 (1).pdf

Hi Temp Thanks for the reply. Yes that is the instruction for my Heatmiser 'stats. I was writing a long list of possibilities why my heating isn't performing yesterday, how I want it to. I already had a copy of that one & in re-reading it yesterday came across the statement "and will continuously control to the set temperature." in the up position, It just hadn't sunk in when I read it weeks ago. It was the agents engineer's statement that all the 'stats should be in the set back mode after he'd had a conversation with Maincor that led to them being set incorrectly. I set 3 of them to the top position yesterday afternoon & they all controlled at the set temperature. What doesn't happen, at night if I put them back to the set back position, the boiler still cycles through the night. I have a medical condition called rhinitis, which if there is any sort of heat in the bedroom, my sinuses dry out & causes problems with breathing. Worcester Bosch do a mechanical clock, the MT 10 which would fit in the blank panel in my boiler, that I could set it so the boiler goes off at midnight & comes on at 6am, 2 hours before I normally get up. The local WB man can supply & fit one for £120, I've put that to the agent, saying I would pay, but he has to get the landlord's permission. Sorry for the long explanation, now we've proved the 'stats will control through the day, it's a step in the right direction The only problem then is finding why the boiler pressure loses pressure gradually over 2 weeks & has to be re-pressurised. Regards & thank you.

Hi All I have 2 Heatmiser & 2 Maincor stats on my system. What do you set the 3 position switch on the side to for normal daytime operation. My switch says UP for constant, centre for set SET BACK & down for OFF. Does anyone know if the CONSTANT position the 'stat still opens & closes. They are all connected to a Heatmiser UH3 wiring centre & a Maincor programmer.

Hi Nod, thanks for the welcome. The weather last night in Southport was B**** horrendous.?

Hi Declan52 There is a blending valve, but it's the BS on maximum water temp' from the boiler if all the safeties fail. 65C is the BS so I believe in screed covered UFH. I'd like to be able to copy it in an official doc' which would give more strength to my argument with the agent. Thanks for the reply.

Hi I've just joined the forum. I live in Southport Merseyside. My main hobbies are Digital Photography & Formula 1. (watching). Back in November 2019 we moved into a 5 year old apartment with water based UFH. From day 1 we experience problems with pressure loss from the Worcester Bosch Greenstar 32 compact boiler, constant running of the system at night, 4 visits from WB claiming there was nothing wrong with the boiler, yet twice they re-pressurised the expansion tank, replaced it & the PRV. The system has a mixture Heatmiser & Maincor components, 2 of each thermostats, Maincor Programmer, Heatmiser UH3 wiring centre. In my working life I was a Project Manager for a refrigeration cabinet manufacturer, handling projects for national end users such as M&S, Morrisons, Asda, Macdonalds, the list goes on, I'm leading up to saying I do know something about air conditioning heating & ventilation. I think that's enough abut me, back to the problem with the apartment. Following numerous visits by the agent, his plumber, electrician & WB, the agent is trying to persuade me to set the boiler outlet temperature above 65C, which it has been set at since we moved in. Set the thermostats on the "set back" position on the 3 position switch. Having scoured the'net I discovered BS EN 1264 which reading between the lines says that Water based UFH systems with screed covered pipes should not exceed 65C at the boiler outlet, 5C lower in the EU version. Can anyone confirm what I think or throw any light on the necessity to increase boiler outlet temperatures over 65C Thank you in anticipation.