Gone West

We tried an electronic water conditioner back in the late nineties as we had very hard water. It didn't work so the suppliers swapped it for a commercial version and that didn't work either. After that it turned into the beginning of using proper softeners, which were the twin cylinder type, and that lasted all the time we lived in East Kent. Now we are really lucky and don't need a softener.

It all depends on what they find out. A previous neighbour converted the end of his garage into a bedsit with LPG heating, shower, toilet and bedroom for his family to use when they came over. No planning or building control and he did a very neat job.

Yes we had a three way kitchen tap so we could have hard water for drinking and soft for everything else, but because the water tasted strange we had to have another filter just for drinking water.

When we were living in the old bungalow, while we were building our house, our Minimax twin cylinder softener packed up, probably around ten years ago. We thought we would try an electric softener as they were a fair bit cheaper, and we bought the Eco15 from Wrekin. It did work ok, but unfortunately the built in timer didn't remember the settings if there was a power cut. As a result it sometimes did a regeneration cycle during the day. It also wouldn't take salt blocks so we had to use salt pellets. When we moved into the new house we decided to go back to a twin cylinder and I fitted a Harvey Crown Softener. This was some time ago, so models have probably changed.

The installers used what looked like standard duct tape. It did the job for a couple of weeks.

Polycarbonate panels are usually fitted between aluminium channels, which are screwed to the rafters, and the panels held in place by a sprung plastic strip banged into the aluminium channel. They are usually very tight unless the wrong channel has been used for the thickness of polycarbonate. I would try @Redbeard idea of scaffold boards and remove the flashing and then knock the polycarbonate panels back into position. Fit new flashing and ensure the panels can't move again, possibly with a blob of CT1 between the panel and channel at the top under the flashing.

Are they fire doors, if not I don't see the significance.

Our 22mm Caberdek flooring was glued and ring shanked nailed and only the T&G joins were taped. It was open to the elements for a couple of weeks and had puddles on it at times but when the covering was peeled off it was fine.

Can it truely write code for something that has never been thought of before. I thought it was only using existing information and then learning/rehashing it, to give you what you want.

Where does it get the information from though, if it's never published in the public domain?

I think the last programming I did was in the early 80s using Fortran77 and I don't think the MoD would have been very happy if I'd got AI to do it for me.

I haven't got a clue what you're talking about, but it's great that you're getting things done, that you want.

I've only ever used yellow Frog Tape for your situation, and it's very gentle, not had any problems.

I have a curved bead lifter but if this is the only time you're likely to need one, try to find something with a similar edge.

I've capped central heating pipes live, but I wouldn't fancy doing high pressure mains 😁.