Not completely. I have a SOLAR iBOOST which has two outputs, although the instructions say they are for two immersions, I don't know why one couldn't be used for electric UFH.
In the Lindab instructions they specifically say not to use power tools for cutting. The reason they give, is that using power tools destroys the galvanising around the cut. Apparently if hand tools are used then the galvanising is able to 'creep' back over the cut surface and maintain rust proofing. We didn't have any rust problems after six years.
Close the flow valve fully, counting the number of turns. Then open the valve half that number. Leave it a day and if the room temperature is still too hot, or not hot enough, adjust the valve accordingly.
We've just fitted some Cedral Click cladding which was readily available through our local builders merchants. They do a smooth or wood effect finish in a range of colours including timber. They have a featheredge (Lap) or T&G (Click) type.
https://www.cedral.world/en-gb/cladding/
I used a Floplast double branched connector for back to back WC connections into a single outlet pipe. The outlet dropped down and the AAV was connected to the top. The BCO was interested in the connector but was quite happy that it was designed for that purpose. We lived there for over three years without any problems.
https://www.floplast.co.uk/product/double-branch
The problem is, who does that? To ensure it is correct would mean educating the masses about WC, who don't want to be educated about 'boring stuff'. As has already been said, finding professionals who can do it is difficult enough.