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SeanDean

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Everything posted by SeanDean

  1. SeanDean
    Sorry i'm referring to the two layers of mesh in he entire floor. Im aware the mesh will need to connected if casting in one go its just not on the plan
  2. SeanDean
    Cheers for your input it's greatly appreciated. Yes, there is no insulation there, it was recommended by the lift supplier and a builder not to put insulation under there. If the garage area was to be converted into a habitual room in the future the pit would be insulated and filled in. I'm just not sure if I should be pulling the second layer of mesh out or be leaving it in, having it in causes issues with the builders walking on it and possibly damaging the UFH but I feel as it was specked this way I should leave it in. I will for sure keep the two layers in the pit regardless. Regarding the thickness of concrete, this is already paid for so reducing the size does not save me any money and is more hassle than it's worth I think.
  3. SeanDean
    The total area is 50m2, the step is to be cast in concrete. Here is the cross section for the pit, and base. The pit is 270mm deep.
  4. SeanDean
    @TonyT @Onoff So the current plan is to use chairs for the lower mesh and then continuous chairs for the upper layer of mesh. The builder laying the slab is a little worried as he will be walking over it, do you think a single layer of mesh mid-way is enough or should I be using the two layers as originally planned. From what I'm reading it seems two layers could be over spec'ed but I keep thinking there must be a reason why it was spec'ed in the first place.
  5. SeanDean
    The original architect spec'ed it with two layers, if it's 100% not needed it could save us fathing about trying to protect the pipe from the top layer of mesh. Is it possible the architect meant layered directly on top of each other rather than spaced apart? (long story short the architect is no longer working on the project) If I was to remove the top layer of mesh am I correct in assuming I would move the single layer of mesh as close to the centre of the slab as possible while keeping the UFH pipe 50mm below the surface?
  6. SeanDean
    I guess I could add bits of conduit over the points where the top layer of mesh comes into contact with the pipe like @Onoff has done in the images above.
  7. SeanDean
    Yes, that is correct but also heavy workshop machinery might go in zone 2 as well so thought it best to over-spec the thickness there as well for future-proofing. I guess I could reduce it to 100mm thick but other than saving a little bit of money I'm not sure what I would need to.
  8. SeanDean
    Sorry to highjack the thread guys but I want to check my last min plan for UFH is ok before I start laying the pipe. I might not even use the UFH but thought it best to get it into the slab as I might regret not doing it down the line. Zone 01 is a workshop area and then a step up into zone 2 which is a bar/chill area. The entire space is open plan. So I plan to zip tie 16mm PEX-AL-HDPE pipe to my lower layer of 142 mesh @ 200mm spacing, the base is 150mm thick. I have a couple of questions below, if anyone can help me with them that would be greatly appreciated. - Does anyone see any major issues with my design? - What is the difference between PEX-AL-HDPE and PEX-AL-PEX and is one better than the other? - Am I correct in not running UFH where I might have units/bar or machinery bolted into the ground? - The pipes will not be hooked up to a manifold until later down the line but should I put water in the pipes when pouring the concrete base? Any help with be greatly appreciated.
  9. SeanDean
    Hope this helps
  10. SeanDean
    Some really useful responses from you all that have really helped me understand what I need a lot more and the reasons why. I'm going to work on a solution that includes anchor or resin bolts along with a strap like the one below, I just need a solution for sealing the DPC after it's been penetrated along with sealing the DPM if I put the straps on the inside of the build. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  11. SeanDean
    Cheers for your input, what are your thoughts/solution on penetrating the DPC?
  12. SeanDean
    These look good, but not cheap also some additional work involved regarding insulation needing to be shaped around them.
  13. SeanDean
    Ideally, they would but then that would mean they would need to penetrate the DPM that comes from under the base and laps up over my blockwork. Is it ok to do this and if so do the areas the straps penetrate need to be taped or sealed up some home?
  14. SeanDean
    Thanks this cleared it up for me. I have 12mm OSB 3 ply on the outside.
  15. SeanDean
    Cheers for the info, I have been trying to find the timber connectors you speak of but its proving difficult and I'm just coming across standard straps. I was hoping to just adopt one of the methods, is this wrong and should I be adopting more that one? What are your thoughts on the DPC being pierced when using anchor bolts or resin anchors? I'm not sure what the racking boards are that you refer to, I have researched this but can't find this term relating to timber frame construction. Cheers.
  16. SeanDean
    I'm looking for some guidance on how to join a new timber frame to an existing wall. The timber frame will be clad with timber feather edge board so no brickwork to tie in with a wall starter kit. Do I just fix the timber stud to the brick wall with resin anchors, a vertical DPC and then some sort of flashing in the corner? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  17. SeanDean
    I thought it best because the Marmox Multiboard is not a load-bearing product. Do you see it having just two studs like this?
  18. SeanDean
    Hello all I'm at the stage where I'm looking for the best solution to strap/bolt down the soleplate of my TF to the blockwork and I am looking for your opinions/advice. I'm currently looking for one of the following options fixed @ 800mm centres: - Anchor bolts down through the soleplate. - Chemical resin anchors down through the soleplate. - Strap bend on the outside of the blockwork going up and over the soleplate. - Flat strap on the outside of the blockwork that goes up the studs. Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated.
  19. SeanDean
    So I received a reply from Marmox and they have suggested the use of 50mm Marmox Multiboard up-stand like this.
  20. SeanDean
    Hello All, Does anyone have any ideas/solution for the Marmox Thermoblock course at the point my foundations step down 300mm? I have had a search but I can't see this mentioned anywhere, I have contacted Marmox but have not heard back from them as of yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  21. SeanDean
    @Russell griffiths Would be great to get your feedback on this updated design please.
  22. SeanDean
    My original wall PIR was just 120mm and was giving me a U-value of 0.24W/m²K when calculated, the updated design now has 140mm PIR along with an additional 25mm PIR internally between the studs and battens so I'm guessing the U-value should be improved. It's my understanding that the min wall U-value on a new build cant be any higher than 0.3 W/m²K so we are good regarding building regs. I think my bigger issue is the thermal bridging my SHS columns are going to create because they sit directly on the trench foundation and are in the single leaf wall construction. I currently have no clue how to combat these issues and that's the next thing I need to research.
  23. SeanDean
    So here is the drawing update, what do you all think? I have not incorporated any straps yet as I'm still looking into solutions for this and keep coming across chemfix and self-sealing DPC
  24. SeanDean
    Cheers for your input. Yes SE has gone over everything and done all the calcs for the steel, the balcony is actually on SHS columns but the render is old and does not feature them. I did a lot of research on the VCL but maybe I missed that it's not designed for PIR so thank you for pointing it out, I will contact the manufacturer. I will also search the BH for another solution. I have an updated drawing of my improved foundations based on the help and direction you guys have all been giving me, so thank you all.
  25. SeanDean
    Am I correct in thinking that where the soleplate is I should extend my up-stand PIR insulation up? Should i be using Marmox THERMOBLOCK under the soleplate?
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