Fly100

Couple of checks to do 1st. you say you have set it a 40c check the temp on the manifolds. My stat adjuster was set a 40c and flowing at 20c, just unscrew the screw in the centre of the knob and move it on the splines so the actual temp matches the displayed temp. I had multiple issues with flow rates and over temps etc, setting flow rates on one day was great but no good a week later. I bought those Salus auto adjustment acctuators and they solved it. Just to note , and happy to be corrected here, my understanding is they open fully at the start and only when to flow and return reaches 10c diff do they start to slow the flow rates down to above 7c difference.

Im sure the Solar Edge Batts have two extinguisher in them.

Hello, Im having my Solar Edge Battery fitted on Friday. Does any one have any tips or guidance for best results ? I see Octopus have have a new tarrif called Flux, any experiances ? I appreciate its fairly new. Thanks, Fly

200m2 region as a ball park at the min. I havent spoken to one yet hence my question. Wanted to get ahead of a few issues.

Was thinking that a big pour like that will take some managing and its a big area with cracking potential and alot of force on the perimeter walls.

Currently looking at getting ahead of some planning conditions. Looks like I will need to come out of the floor 900mm or 1200mm to resolve the flood issue. So the build is likely to be SIP construction, I dont like the idea of a 900mm concrete faced slab, is building the external walls in brick and then filling the area in the middle with hardcore, insulation and then screed up to FFL ? Im guessing the slab would have to be divided up into smaller areas. Im yet to instruct an Architect, just thinking about the challenges I will be coming across. Fly

Hello all, An piece of land has come our way but to satisfy the Local Planning requirement we would need to build out the ground by 700mm min. I’ve recently completed a traditional build doing the same where we built a 900 mm high ring of engineering bricks on the external leaf and blocks on the internal with a block and beam floor. Is this kind of construction suitable for a SIP construction ? Im yet to contact and manufacturers / Architect as we have a few discussions to have 1st , but have read cold bridging needs considering. My intention is to under floor heat the house with 200mm of Kingspan under a screed. Thanks, Fly

Interesting info and alot of data. Im considering doing something similar as my next project. We are about to have a Solar Edge Batt fitted, our main heat source is an Oil Boiler , but looking into making this hybrid with a ASHP to run through the night on the cheap rate during the winter while also charging the battery in winter days that aren’t sunny. Still sketching the idea on the fag packet but hoping I can progress it. Fly

313 kWh here, nice little boost at the end of the month too.

Doesnt work for me ( if it was 20p it be close) as we have Solar Immersion unit. Excess goes to the DHW tank and save us having oil boiler on in the summer for DHW.

Hasty reply, I may have missed what you are actually trying to do. but if it helps :- I have Heatmiser UFH downstairs and running seperatly Evo Home running the Rads and DWH upstairs. I can operate both at the same time or independently and under there own schedules. FLY

Have you tried recalibrating them. I suggest they may be out of cal over the summer months as they have not been powered ?

To be fair when I checked last night it was chucking down, and everything was wet. Im on oil for condensing stops at 47C. Im trying to get my return temps down, but keep passing the 47C ( self imposed limit).Rads are balanced but im running Rads upstairs and Underfloor down stairs both with vey differnet demands.

Hello fellas, Stupid question, if a boiler is giving out white smoke / steam from its exhaust is that an indication its condensing ? The drian pipe is a decent run and I cant see any water dripping out the end of it. Thanks, FLY

I run mine at 15c as we have Rads upstairs so its a happy medium. Just check flow into UF Manifold is what it says on the dial.

I keep beating this drum. Make sure the temp on the dial matches the actual flow temp. I have to remove the plastic knob part and alter it a good few splines to set the corect reading. Mine showed 40C and was only reaching 25C. Simple fix but can throw your data way out. As above, you need boiler flow 10/15c ahead of the mainifold set temp.I can also recomend the Salus Auto Balancing Actuators. Solved a few issues for me.

Hello all, Could someone give me a definitive answer on when an Oil Boiler stops condensing. I’ve read a good few pages and there seems to be conflicting info. Two options are its stops at 47C return temp or 55C return temp.Am I right in thinking the lower you can get the return the more condensing you get increasing efficiency ? Thanks, Fly

Side note, you should check the temp you set on the white know matches the pipe temp. I had that mixer valve and it was 15c out. Easy fix is to move the knob round on the splines by unscrewing the centre screw. 10 sec job.

Upping the Flow temp push my return temp up and out of the Condesing range (47c on oil ?). Probaly going to drop a size as a trial and see how I get on. Time will tell.

Both, my calcs bring it out at approx 16 Kw boiler is reqd while the Airsource heat pump company who did a quote got it to 18Kw ( including DHW). And it short cycles sadly. The boilers lowest setting is 25kw.

That was the suggestion about the lowest nozzle setting they gave me. I’ve looked at the parts list and the only significant difference is the length of the blast tube.

Does anyone have any experience of down firing an Oil Boiler ? Mine was oversizedfor the house, but ive spoken to the Tech helpline and they have given me 3 nozzle and pump settings. Going down upto 3 nozzle sizes below the lowest suggested in the manual. They did say however the lowest nozzle would probably be no good. I wonder has anyone done this themselves or has any experience. Thanks, Fly

I have the Salus heads on a Heatmiser Neo stats. Issue I have had is one unit failed internal and stopped adjusting. Simply replaced it job done. Second issue I had was one unit went out of calibration and needed re calibratibrating. Hope that helps.

Salus Automatic Acuators are great and do all this for you, giving you optimin flow rates.

I built one of these, ( disregard the number on the top unit I only powered it to take a pic briefly) . So the Elliwell unit controls the boiler and I run it until the flow reaches 60c where it the cuts out. I can then set a differential figure which I set to 14c in the autumn and spring and 12 or 10c in the winter depending on the weather, at 46c it restarts the boiler for another heat cycle, reaching 60c it shuts down again. My oil boiler runs both under flow and rads and these figures are the sweet spot for both. The under floor flow is set to 40c and again I increase it slightly if the weather is very cold. These figures give me a return flow of around 42c ish. The unit below the Elliwell is a Flow and Return lcd read out and the unit below is an hour meter that clicks on when the boiler is running. Boiler runs for 500 hours per heating season, we have a large PV set up the provides DHW from March until about early October.