Pocster

I’ll quickly unlike joe’s post !!

Ok ! Will go that route . How thick should the adhesive be ? Notched ? . I need to know how much it will drop ? . Will it ‘shift’ / ‘sink’ overnight as it sets ???? Sorry , lots of questions - don’t want to get this wrong !!

The best solution is a lite tray . I reckon props / jacks from beneath is the man solution ?

Not on this yet - but thinking .... I could stick a hole in the beam and block and use a bottle jack to lift/ lower it . Only issues are the height the jack could go and some method to support the whole tray - stop it falling off the jack . Is it ok for a tray to be ‘jacked’ at one point ? ??

Understand with a corner tray - easy ! Also - still concerned about heights . Marine ply is about 3mm below the screed . Can fill gaps with floor tile adhesive . Before I apply floor membrane should I attempt to ‘skim’ ply up by 3mm ? Also when finally bedding tray in sand/cement - how thick should that be ? Notched 10mm ? ( spell check kept trying to type ‘botched’ - obviously it’s well up on my skills ! )

Ok ! Right ( tries not to be confused ) . I forgot (!!!! ) I have a waterproofing kit ( shouldn’t really of forgotten that ) . So - order of tasks 1. Glue and screw ply down 2. delta seal all joints 3. water proof paste 4. fleece and pre form corners 5. more paste I.e as instructions . At this point I assume I would want to bed tray . But still confused how / what point I try and fill the tray to wall touching edges with ct1 ( or silkaflex as you use ) . Understand this silicone application is the real water proofing and that the ‘nice white’ line of Mastik is simply the first line of defence against leaks

Trays pretty tight on all sides . I know I’ve got to bed it in sand/ cement but also ct1 around those edges . Presume once I’m ready to bed it I can ct1 the lower part of the wall ? I.e so as I bed it ct1 squishes our the edges ( easier than trying to it in afterwards ?? )

Fitted the trap to the tray and lowered it in . I think from underneath I can get to it ( worst case chip more block out ) . So ! . Need to glue and screw marine ply down . Then attempt to use tile adhesive to fill any floor gaps ( between marine ply and screed floor ) . Also ‘skim’ tile adhesive over some of the ply to get to screed height - so level ( ish )

Right ! Finally back on this ! I don’t like the tray trap as it’s a screw fitting then a push fitting . I worry if it leaks access from even below is awkward ( hence widening hole in the beam and block ) . Trap though unluckily sits above a beam ( rather than a block ) . So going to get this position right .

SWMBO said the same . Oh sorry , you mean that link ....

This might be useful https://leachs.net/big-ben-roller-tie-scaffold-fixing?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3Peil5yO6wIVVeztCh3NQA1AEAQYAyABEgIkbPD_BwE#

That a euphemism??

I’ll get the vertical pole in place . Then make a cardboard scale model of what I thick the bracket should be .

Maybe ? https://fractory.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrOiziOGL6wIVGO7tCh0NmgN3EAAYASAAEgIQ0PD_BwE

I’ll look online there’s bound to be “ online fabrication service “ ....

Couldn’t I just use my method and each short horizontal is above the other ? I.e 2 clamps on the vertical. Trying to sort an off the shelf solution ...

@joe90 What about clamping with a U bracket a short scaff pole on the outside of the wall ( on both sides ) and then just a horizontal short piece clamped to the main vertical with scaff fixings? Crap picture - for no clarity

Looking at cargo slings on eBay now. Not ordered yet as best to build something; so I have some idea. So ( for now! ) will use a wooden pallet as platform. 2 slings I assume ; 1 each side; going under pallet ( some timber or something to stop them slipping ) Up into spreader ( still not sure what to use here - perhaps simple timber is ok? ) then to hook.

Ummm, I guess so ( he says ). Essentially it is better because as you say bolt can pull out the wall with a U clamp. With this method it's directly in the wall vertically. All I need then in reality is maybe a nice meaty right angle bracket that I can cut/drill to suit.

The only issue I've got is the length to weight ratio that the counter weight scaff pole needs to be . i..e I've got limited room for it ( drain in the way ) so will need to be shorter - but obviously can stick more weight on it to compensate . Struggling to find parapet clamps at a sensible price....

RIGHT! That's it. Only way to move this forward is to actually purchase something! So winch and scaff pole gantry from eBay ordered . Going with @joe90 suggestion. So if I suffer injury he's liable

So I can simply over paint it with the appropriate paint? . Do I need to prep the surface?

Ouch ! . Mines only 1 year old ! . Just repaint then with the appropriate silicon breathable paint ??

Should it lose its colour so quick though ? Always thought k rend should last for years - not 1 year . That wall is on a sheltered side aswell .... ?

My exterior was K rendered about a year ago . I’ve noticed a few scuffs and assumed it’s where I’ve hit the wall . I no longer think this . Not sure it shows up in the photos . Obviously I could re paint at a later date just surprised how soon it seems to be losing its colour