Thorfun

https://www.britishgoatsociety.com/about-us/breeds/pygmy/ but they're so cute (and yes, I am kidding)

yes, agreed. and in this instance they should be. we're very happy with what the lighting designer has designed. she did say that she can help with the sourcing/control/install etc but as that will cost us more money we're fine with figuring this out on our own (and with the help of this wonderful forum 😇)

right. ok. so I think I'm starting to get a handle on this. so, IF I don't want to dim those LEDs I would simply have an LED driver suitable to run the 12 x uplighters and that will plug in to the Loxone Relay extension? https://shop.loxone.com/enuk/relay-extension.html

yeah, thinking somewhere between 1W - 2.5W for this application. why is the Whitewing dimmer not appropriate?

the wildflowers have started to bloom

thanks. good info. I've not bought any LEDs yet. not even run a single cable yet! just trying to plan ahead as I know it's all going to hit the fan at the same time and I want to make sure I'm a little bit prepared for it all.

thanks Jack. I do get a bit lost with all of the electrical stuff and I do have a good sparky but just haven't given him the plans for lighting and sockets yet. in the area shown above they will be pretty low wattage lights. in fact, our lighting designer has used very few downlighters and so those we do have tend to not be many in a row. I was thinking of using the Whitewing DMX controllers that @joth, at least I think it was (apologies if my memory has failed me on that!), was using (http://whitewing.co.uk/acdim.html). seems to be a cheaper option that Dali. I think I'll give all the details to my electrician and ask him to sort it out. 😉

thinking we might buy a goat?

oh! cool. didn't realise you could do that. 🤦‍♂️ I really should speak to my electrician about this stuff. that's the problem with a million things going around your head there's just not enough time to deal with them all!

sorry. meant to mention that! in this situation they will be either all on or all off or all dimmed. obviously, for lights that need to be individually controllable they will have their own power cable.

I am planning to control our lights with Loxone and the current plan is to use DMX. we have situations where we'll have multiple LED spots in a row and I'm wondering if every spot needs a power cable brought back to the cabinet? e.g. along our vertical posts next to the stairs we're planning uplighter illuminating the posts as shown in the mockup below. that's 12 LED spots. so will I need 12 x power cables running back to the Loxone cabinet or is there a more efficient way of doing this?

the roof may well overheat in the summer but as it's just storage space I'm not that worried. there's not too much you can do about stopping the sun shining on the roof to block out solar gain! you can use different forms of insulation to increase decrement delay. i have used mineral wool between the rafters and PIR underneath. the mineral wool has better decrement delay than PIR so it might help a bit but if I had my time again I would get pumped cellulose in the roof for two reasons.....1. installing mineral wool and PIR is a ******* and 2. cellulose has a very good decrement delay so will help with keeping the loft cool in the summer sun.

cheers. will take a look.

thanks for this. I think I can take care and have a logical mind so maybe I can do it! I'll look at Lindab and see how it compares to the Metal Gutta parts that I've been looking at.

scaffolding is still up as the timber cladding is being installed from next week. so once that's done I will keep the scaffolding up to allow safe installation of the guttering. so, the consensus so far seems to be that maybe for zinc and stainless steel it might be worth getting a professional to do it as it's easily damageable?

yes, expensive but a lot nicer than plastic and if I can save on costs by fitting myself then I have more money to spend on materials! 😉

As title says really. it 'seems' simple enough but I'm having a little wobble about getting it right. anyone installed their own guttering and have any issues/concerns or was it just plain sailing? Also, how about knowing what to buy? I have a civil engineering drawing showing where downpipes etc should go but I'm a little concerned that I'll over spend on too much material or not buy enough and have to wait weeks to get extras ordered and delivered! we're going for either Zinc or Stainless steel so would suppliers help design what items are required?

115m2 @ 50mm average Cemfloor £2200.

welcome. we had the same dream and, after two failed attempts, we finally found and bought a bungalow to demolish. it was a long journey but we're now at a watertight stage and can see the finish line in the not too distant future we hope! so stick with the dream and ride the ups and downs of the journey and you can make it happen. 🙂 I personally don't think the state of the house is a considering factor but others who know more will be along shortly I'm sure.

Bloody expensive though!

I ended up painting the walls with a roller and used Dulux Trade Blockfiller. probably would've got a better finish spraying as it was really hard to try and fill the gaps in the blocks but I think it came out alright and it is, after all, just a plant room! we decided to leave the external concrete wall as is (à la @Bitpipe) which we also like and it'll be the only room that retains that concrete look. Bought some grey floor paint but haven't done that yet even though it might look like it but the screed was grey!

Thanks Dave. Glad I kept all those off-cuts. 😊 think I’ll do it as well.

how is it possible to insulate pipes when they're running in a service cavity? even with 47mm x 47mm battens as a service cavity will be tight to insulate water pipes. so do you only insulate between the posi-joists and don't bother in the walls? seems pointless that way though.

greetings. should a Tony tray in a timber frame house be insulated? the architects said not to bother as I'll be putting acoustic insulation between the joists anyway but just wondered what others have done as it's pretty much just a piece of ply between the outside world and the house. I could easily cut 140mm deep glass mineral squares to fit in those gaps. worth it or not? it would get a bit trickier in other rooms where the joists are closer together

thanks. we're getting there! our flat roof makeup from inside to out is: posi-joists 18mm OSB VCL 190mm PIR 11mm OSB Alwitra VSK single-ply membrane then the green roof is simply laid on top of the single-ply. not sure on the exact make-up for the green roof though sorry. I wasn't really paying too much attention at that point and they laid it so quickly that I missed most of it! we have 2 drains on each green roof which are part of the waterproofing layer, so built in when the single-ply got laid. then the green roof drains down to that layer and the out of the outlet. you can see them on the far side of this photo.