Onoff

Something like this maybe? https://m.banggood.com/2_2KW-220V-9_5A-1HP-To-3-Phase-Variable-Frequency-Inverter-Motor-Drive-VSD-VFD-p-1392464.html?rmmds=search

This I think is how the motor is wound: https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Dahlander_pole_changing_motor

Ta. I'm reading this might be known as a "Dahlander" motor? Then that if delivers the same torque in both modes? Also then this star delta starter is completely manual in operation?

Some more pictures. HTF has SWMBO got 7372 photos and videos on her phone? Where the feed comes in / the isolator: The O, I, II switch. 3 blacks in, 6 blacks out: Low down on the left, 2nd photo at the start:

Something like this maybe? https://uk.banggood.com/Minleaf-AT1-2200X-2_2KW-220V-PWM-Control-Inverter-1Phase-Input-3Phase-Out-Inverter-Variable-Frequency-Inverter-p-1282676.html?

Thought I'd have another bash with citric acid. Need to do a couple of spare steel wheels for the wife's Pug, some lawnmower deck parts and some old lifting chains for the BiL. (I started off doing the wheels with electrolysis a while back. It wouldn't get paint off, I tried sand blasting...then gave up. This time they'll just get a coat of Lidl Baufix black metal paint and be done with it). 144L blue barrel. 72L of hot water and 10kg of citric acid powder. Did think about painting the barrel black to absorb more heat from this lovely sunshine.

Long story. Basically they were inside a covered barn but with no windows or doors. That top box is just an isolator. All wired previously in 3-core and earth flat 1.5mm. The next box down is interesting. You can just see the black knob on the handle. 3 wires in, 6 out. The lever is positions are O, I & II. Not belled anything out yet. It was getting dark and I was 2 beers in anyway. Photos to follow. On SWMBOs phone as mine was dead.

"General stuff" I guess In the 1st picture to the left is a little capstan lathe in similar dog rough condition Also has a surface grinder there not shown.

I'm going to go and have a look at it and see if there is a DOL starter on it.

Looking at the cheapest option!

The BiL has this old, 3 phase vertical mill he wants to get going. Plan is to swap the motor over for a single phase one. I think this might be a double star wound motor hence the two speeds? Thinking he'd be better spending his money on a better phase converter? @AnonymousBosch, fancy translating this for me please, from inside the terminal box? German kit. Unfortunately the ID plate has come off and is MIA. No idea of the make. Cheers

It'll work in essence but I'd like to be a bit more scientific about it. I'm all rule of thumb generally! My new, proposed ceiling horizontal joists. Do I consider them Floor Joists or Ceiling Joists for a start? Now for Floor Joists there are 3 dead load options: - Not more than 0.25kN/m2 - More than 0.25 but not more than 0.50kN/M2 - More than 0.50kN/M2 but not more than 1.25kN/M2 But for Ceiling Joists only two options: - Not more than 0.25kN/m2 - More than 0.25 but not more than 0.50kN/M2 In each case 3 joist spacings; 400, 450 & 600mm. In my case I've assumed 600mm though it varies from 440 to 645mm. Not one pair of trusses is centred the same. Assuming Ceiling Joists then: Taking SC3 tables as it was, now C16 I believe. Not more than 0.25kN/M2 is 250kg over an area of 1 square metre. I'd never exceed that. A 225x50 joist allows a maximum clear span of 5280mm. I've a clear span between my walls of 5860mm. (For Floor Joists a 225x75 only does 4880mm at 600mm centres).

@scottishjohn, continuing here from the other thread: I have a double garage with truss rafters. I desperately need more storage space. I've been up in there and measured the section of the trusses, nominally 70x35mm. Across the front entrance is a 178x102 RSJ (as in tapered flanges). I'd thought about just spanning the walls with bfo timbers, say 9"x3". I've an old Approved Document A here from 1985 and even 225x75 SC3 at 600 centres doesn't cut it as floor joists. Again, this will not be a "living" area, just storage. Thus half a plan then to run a new UB down the centre, mid span and underneath of the existing trusses. I've drawn this in as a 254x146x31kg/m as it fits with just 7mm of packing between it and the u/side of the existing trusses. Connect the UB to the RSJ at the front. I imagine I'll need square posts coming up from the floor to support the new UB. Then span wall to wall, on the existing wall plate with 200x47. Then frame out up and over in 150x47, screwed to the existing trusses. Then CUT AWAY the existing trusses giving me an open "room". I'll cost it versus a new timber roof trusses. If money were no object!

How big a patch?

No he's only got the frame in and not the pan yet.

?

A tongue in cheek one would be good too.

Under a leak is it?

I take it back. Yours IS neater that @joe90's. Have none of you read @PeterStarck's blog? ?

Neater??? Wtf dies yours look like then?

Is this a holiday let?

For some reason I didn't think you could sharpen modern "throw away" saws.....something to do with the teeth being hardened?

If I were to raise the walls by say 500mm, like this: I've still only got nom 1976mm from the top of the horizontal truss member to the underside of the apex. Hardly tall enough for a "room in the roof" even for storage: It'd be fun too, building up the 4" block, gable wall:

Trusses are skew nailed to the wall plate. Non starter for me to jack it up I'm afraid.

That sounds scary with the concrete tiles still on! Money no object I'd have new roof trusses made, taller with a "room in the roof" profile.