Onoff

My dad, a British Gas pensioner always swore by their service back in the day. He had an oil boiler fitted to an old system that originally had a coal boiler. In the last few years it developed multiple issues, required loads of new parts etc. They tried making it a sealed system etc. At one point they even removed the mag filter that they had originally fitted. Utter farce.

Make sure you get boom swing if you get one.

I have spoken a couple of times to Darren down there. Kept trying to tie up to get down there but it never happened. They've had displays on at for instance The Kent Show, Edenbridge & Oxted too I think. Seem open and honest. I was at the same time looking at buying a Rippa direct from China, door to door with all duties etc came out circa £1000-1500 less than Buffalo. However as I was about to press the button Rippa's rep turned into a high pressure, bunny boiler esque deal trying to guilt me into buying. I ceased all contact. A bit light on the old readies front at the moment so it's on the back burner. Managed to get my BiL to do my recent digging. Tbh I don't really fancy going down there for someone else. I'll just rub in that I can't buy one! 😢

Any good? Supplier local 'ish to me in Maidstone. I was looking to get the 1.2T version but circumstances have changed: https://buffalomachines.co.uk/products/buffalo-b1800-mini-digger

CT1

"With hindsight I'd have knocked it down and started again".

Not what the OP is talking about as he's confirmed above. Again an aside to the thread but on the subject of back box earth terminals, where I've come across the odd one that's damaged I've drilled and fitted a Rivnut and ring crimp Broken screw: Rivnut tool: New earth termination vs old: Rivnut shown here on a loose back box just for clarity:

I think when zinc coated steel is cut, zinc oxide forms. This acts as a protective layer. Only really works on thin sheet edges. Same with a light scratch. Won't work on say the cut end of a galvanised RSJ. Best thing for that is a Zilt stick applied with a porta pack. Most now use so called "cold galv" out of a rattle can. Zinga is very good.

Roll a thin bit of card around the pipe and mark with a Sharpie. That'll give you a dead square cut line. Then use the hacksaw to follow the pen line, rotating the tube as you go. As in you're almost scoring it. Take it easy and the saw will follow the groove when you finally cut the tube.

I've used Illbrück expanding tape instead of Compriband. Seems good.

So the tanking appears to have worked?

I've got a 10mm² SWA running to the charger point. Then a 20mm flexible duct cable tied to the SWA with a Cat-6e in.

Any post tanking update?

You would be amazed / shocked at the shoddy installs by "double glazing" fitters. A lot of the surveyors would under measure the gap so the install flew in. No chasing out etc. Ours got put in with damn great perimeter gaps that weren't foamed or expanding taped. They simply super glued trim over the gap and siliconed. Gradually redoing mine. Where the window is in situ I use Illbrück FM330 expanding foam. Trim removed and gap visible: Finger size gaps: Note no cavity closer either: Lots of little things you can do and it all adds up.