passivhybrid

Can I ask what 10mm thermal break you used to the lower chord please any pictures of the build up? thankd

if you still have a chance look at energy heel trusses https://www.norbord.com/na/blog/raising-the-roof-raised-heel-trusses/ raised heel truss

Solar iboost

Looks good Has anbody used n roof system with standing seam zinc roof?

thanks breather membrane is fom Dorken Delta Maxx Plus basc specs in screen grab below

Just trying to figure out what products are breathable and which are not. Came across the vapour diffusion resistance factor when looking at the properies of a straw based board.It shows 10/10 for a istraw board and 2/5 for a woodwool board( like celenit) Another thing is that When i introduce a breather membrane on top of the insulation ( roof with counter batens ) i get condensation,if i don't put breather membrane into build up no condensation

yes its first floor I actually managed to route all the HRV ducts and first fix electrics within the 3 stiffening sections ( thinner blocks)and through the hollow slots in the blocks. Used steel fibres in the concrete and increased depth of concrete by 50mm . Prior to concrete pour I also drilled 100mm cores at each corner in building and in centre to facilitate plumber and electrician.

is it a warm roof? would you mind posting build up of your roof?

Im not in the UK My engineer is German and is quite familar with clay blocks and this system

Thanks for replying and my Apologies for any confusion.The clay block and beam system is on the first floor i used it instead of a precast floor slabs at this level. the ground floor has u value below 0.10 it is the passive kore slab. in attached screen grab of ground floor i have averaged out the concrete because of deep ringbeam on perimeter of foundation plus horizontal and vertical ring beam inside slab

https://www.blowerproof.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Blowerproof_Variable_Moisture_Control_Vapour_Control_Layer_VCL_Capacity.pdf

clay block walls are already constructed we are at wall plate level now i did consider conventional blocks but the breathability of the poroton block coupled with the heat storage capacity was why we went with it. we havent made a firm decision on the EWI as of yet will be next year before we need to make that decision, i have actually considered just pouring an external ringbeam around the perimeter of the Kore Passive Slab and just putting another skin of poroton up and blowing in cellulose in the newly created cavity, no fixings to worry about and simply lime render it job done 100% breathable. Finances as ever will dictate that dcision at the moment it looks like i will have 10 pallets of the blocks left.

maybe i misunderstood it........ by external radiator do you mean placing it outside the building?

yes its a breathable wall airtightness is with a parge coat and in critical junctions blowerproof liquid ( which is also breathable) rockwool to be attached with adhesive and insulation fixings

screen grab of manufacturers specs I am not aiming to go the certification route for a passive house just following their criteria and using passive certified products for all the main purchases.

this is the wall build up, may add steico internal wood fibre on inside but dont think i will need it, the €5k price for passive certification here is not worth it

The external radiator part would be difficult in practice

We are building a poroton clay block 2 storey house ( with attic space liveable) to passive standards. Ground floor and first floor are 112 m2 with the attic space of circa 76m2. I bought the poroton clays directly from the manufacturer n Germany and went with their block and beam floor as well . The block beam floor is essentially concrete reinforced girders with a poroton clay block 195mm high dropped in between the beams, then a 50mm concrete screed was poured. Having bookmarked @TerryE blog a long time ago , i now have the perfect opportunity to mimic his and others work albeit with a different cnstruction and on a different level to create a radiant ceramic slab The only UFH i will have on the ground floor will be a circuit running around the perimeter of the building and another circuit for UFH panels which will be placed in the walls on the north elevation in living room and bathroom. In the attic space i dont envisage any heat being needed . I have toyed with the idea of putting the UFH pipes on the ground floor ceiling and killing two birds with the one stone heating both upstairs and downstairs but electricians and others put me off. The poroton clay blocks in the floor will hold the heat for a long time so the UFH system i choose is variotherm which has the ability to be used as a cooling system as well. If i run with an air to water heat pump i will ensure it has a summer bypass function fitted still trying to figure out the Willis heater system So having ruled out using the ceiling the Upstairs floor will be used. Nearly 500 metres of piping is sitting in the garage awaiting installation but as of yet Nobody has being able to answere my queries on the need for insulation on top of the screed. The hollow clay poroton block is essentially 195mm of insulation on its own. If i put 75mm of insulation down on top of the 250mm screed and cover this with a screed of 75mm am I essentially blocking the heat going going to the ground floor ?. Giving that its a passive house and high decrement delay with the poroton the heat demand is not the primary deciding factor. The variotherm rep forwarded my query on to their Head Office in Austria and that essentially there was no need insulation other than for a getting a fixing for the pipes but no need for fixing if i use their grid underlay to hold the pipes in place . The only other point they raised was insulation might be necessary for sound as the blocks are hollow. Having walked on this floor screed for the last few months i dont think noise will be a problem. What would you recommend?

We visited my uncles newly built passive house a few years ago before w started our build., his only gripe was that the house was so well insulated that he couldnt keep his fruit or vegtables from detoriating rapidly and he had resorted to storing his veg outside in his shed this was what cemented the idea of a pantry for us.

Building a passive house at the moment and we have put a pantry on the northside configured to be part of the external envelope to leep it unheated. The plant room is located directly above it meanng will also have to insulate the pantry ceiling to keep it unheated Have been toying with the idea of running the mains water pipe in a coil on top of the passive concrete slab when final finish floor is being put in. Do you think this will work? Ran this idea by a guy who installs refridgeration units into shops and he suggested running copper pipes and using refridgerant/ coolant , i got lost in the detail but i think he recommended hooking it up to a pump and a sensor it would only need to be on for a small amount of time has anybody done anything similar?