Nethermoor

It has always been a standalone little plot as far back as records go so I don't believe it will have any, excavations for the foundations have cut into it a fair amount and haven't seen anything as yet...

Thanks all, can't find any evidence on the old maps of any ditches but there must be some sort of highway drainage to explore. I think you are right, I can't really avoid a percolation test so may as well get on with it. Only reason was the levels, the drive is sloping away from FFL whereas the garden is approx 1m higher, but yes may well have to have two. Yes, there must be some drainage as it was a fairly well drained field originally. I think the 'rainwater harvesting' idea @Temp @joe90 is definitely one to keep up the sleeve! Would be quite a big divergence from the existing plans so don't think that's an option now. I'll make a start with the options suggested and see where it goes...thanks

My initial drawings were all done based on SuDS with two soakaways and went through planning fine with no comments from planners or Yorkshire Water. We then did a site investigation, day 1 was soil samples and coal mining and day 2 we were going to do a percolation test. After looking at the window samples the geologist (very experienced) said there was no point doing a percolation test as he could see from the soil build up that soakaways wouldn't work (clay and mudstone). From there we presumed (naively) that we would be able to do a combined connection to the sewer. We knew there was one in the road and that quite a few neighbours discharged combined into it so didn't foresee any issue. To be able to apply for a connection on the Section 106 form I had to purchase a sewer map (attached). This revealed the sewer in the road is only 150mm diameter and foul only. Anyway, I tried to apply for combined with my ground report from the geologist stating that as the strata is impermeable soakaways will not work, and a supporting document explaining that we had intended soakaways originally but having done a site investigation, had to change course. Yorkshire Water promptly rejected the application, saying I could only connect foul: Unfortunately, your application has been rejected pending resolution of the following issues: 1. At planning you proposed to discharge of surface water into a soak away and the plan that was approved shows surface water into a soak away. 2. Yorkshire Water have no combined sewers in the area. Our records show there is a foul only sewer in the highway. Surface Water is NOT allowed to discharge to a foul only sewer. 3. Please supply a new drainage layout plan showing foul only discharging to the public foul sewer. So...what are my options now? I've asked architect and engineer but no-one seems to be very sure, guessing a few on here have been in similar situations before? Work with Yorkshire Water to see if they could accept surface water with an attenuation tank or similar? And explain why some neighbours have combined connections into the sewer, plus others not shown on the map... See if I can drain surface water into highways drainage? Do a percolation test and hope oversized soakaway/s will work? There's space in the front drive to fit one in within guidelines (5m from house, 2.5m from boundary) Lay a pipe to the nearest watercourse (350m across neighbours land and a private lane)? 19-003-10-H Proposed Site Plan-[A1].pdf CAS-02751-M3D2F6_Final.pdf

Thanks for the responses, will certainly help in my preparations.

Hmmm. I will be insulating the roof myself. Design is here https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/5608i-088a0c8b982c485d893e8bf55933449f Which bits do I need to watch out for? Had assumed it would be quite simple fitting Frametherm between the rafters...?

Thanks for the replies, would anyone think the south elevation glazing is likely to be a major problem (3 sets of french doors)? If not then ideal because it looks like external blinds for these would be quite expensive... Is solar glass on this glazing worth it or best to focus on Velux windows and roof insulation?

@ProDave Oh dear...just paid my deposit on these to be able to get the full truss design for the structural engineer ? The plan was to keep the eaves and apex void within the insulated area as red line below. What bits are hard to insulate properly compared to a cut roof?...may as well get prepared!

I'm building a bungalow with rooms in the roof and I want to get the right materials specified at this stage (planning granted, next step BC) to minimise overheating. I want to avoid the need for AC if possible but don't want to be installing materials with a payback of more than 10 years really (may have moved on by then). Going for 'above regs' spec but not passive. My parents house is also a RIR bungalow and for 2-4 weeks of the summer it is not pleasant to sleep upstairs unless there is a portable AC running. Obviously the basic spec of my build will be a lot better than theirs anyway, so I'm not sure how many extra measures are worth taking. Been reading other posts on overheating on the forums so have an idea of the different options, but no real clue what will be my weakest points in terms of overheating and what to prioritise... Juliette balcony on the south elevation upstairs (master bedroom), 2x 3m french doors downstairs. External blinds for these? Solar control glass? 4x large Velux roof windows - solar control glass, external blinds? Seen the Solstro ones which look good. Large roof area - foil membrane to reflect heat? Insulation with high decrement delay (architect is specifying Gutex/Pavaflex wood fibre but saw @ProDave post that Frametherm was similar decrement delay and a lot easier on the budget)? Guessing PIR would be a bad option. Rafters are 222mm deep so a far amount of space to play with. Accept it will overheat and plan for AC from the start? (bearing in mind I don't want PV due to long payback time) I will have MVHR but have seen from others that comfort cooling on this won't really make enough of an impact. Plans attached to add context. Be very glad of advice - don't want to spend a load extra on wood fibre roof insulation if it won't make a noticeable difference. 19-003-20-M Proposed Floor Plans-[A1].pdf 19-003-21-H Proposed Elevations-[A1].pdf

I used Self Build Zone for site insurance, came out best on price. Can get an instant quote online without having to speak to anyone. Didn't have any insurance on the land until we started works, as is fairly low risk flat site with no nearby footpaths or anything. Not sure on prices for land liability although you get public liability as part of site insurance, you may find it is worth just taking out the one policy for a longer time period.

I was quoted £1200+VAT for a fairly simple land purchase, but got a referral discount down to £950+VAT.

@Russell griffiths Interested in what you are saying with tape and jointing. When you say FST do you use the Fermacell stuff but just on normal plasterboard, or can you get similar stuff in another brand? Do you use this over the whole board or just the joints? Wondering whether this would overcome the issue with wallpapering - if you wallpaper straight onto a taped and jointed wall and then decide to change it in future you basically have to remove the plasterboard entirely...

+1 for the concrete screws, these are the best option you have. Full details here if you need http://www.timco.co.uk/fasteners-fixings/multi-fix/mf-range-screw Express nails are ok, but more light duty, more suited for battening etc. and aren't as easy to remove should you need to reposition.

The way the trade would fix this is with plastic tube washer and concrete screws, this gives a thermal break and a fairly easy application compared to using resin overhead which isn't great fun. 250mm version of this https://www.fixfast.com/products/fastener-systems/surefast-reg-flat-roofing-fastener-system/sf-75mm-tube-washers-for-insulation 100mm version of this https://www.fixfast.com/products/fastener-systems/surefast-reg-flat-roofing-fastener-system/sf-rs-6-1-fasteners-for-concrete-and-timber-decks Fixfast have an Irish branch if that is where you are from memory? If you are struggling from them there's other sellers online.

Thanks, very interesting.

Thanks again, I'm thinking the same on solar...if it was a 'forever home' it would be obvious but I can see I'll be struggling for payback in my scenario. So UFH downstairs - but upstairs: I've had prices on the Omnie TorFloor and equivalents where the pipes are routed in chipboard and then have a structural ply over the top, and it seems quite expensive - around £5k for my first floor (after adding cost of 6mm ply on, and deducting what 22mm chipboard would have cost). There's also Pug screed which is cheaper but I guess the weight will cause extra structural costs, plus it looks a real hassle to install. A couple of friends have said that I'll find the upstairs heating rarely comes on, and recommended just having an electric UFH for bathrooms and just some 'backup' heating in the bedrooms (radiators or electric heaters etc). Be glad of anyone's experience on this? If I have to just bite the bullet that's fine, but I'd hate to spend £5k to find it only comes on in the very depths of winter!