gavztheouch

This is a hard one to explain with just words. So I made a model to represent the problem. This flat roof dormer connects to a 35 degree roof clad in metal. I am having a hard time work out how to waterproof the area where the upstand for the parapet meets the sloping roof. Open to changing the roof material and design. Would much rather not have these flat roof dormers but I am here now and need to make the best job I can. World appreciate any ideas and thoughts

Probably can do that. until I put a straight edge across its hard to see how bad it is now. If it doesn’t get much worse then it will be fine for carpets. Might need to plane down the bathrooms if they are tilled or vinyl.

Flooring is down. I used egger protect which has a coating on it to give 60 days protection. Unfortunately the joiners have used half the amount of foaming glue needed so the glue has not sealed the boards and already after a couple of days the edges have swollen. Pretty annoyed as the flooring is something you can’t really ever replace as it’s under the first floor wall and glued to the joists. Fingers crossed it emerges out the other side of 30 days getting the roof on in ok shape. The joiner said he knew how to fit it and he has done it many times. We discussed the importance of a seal on the boards so I felt comfortable I didn’t need to check the installation instructions to check how much glue we needed. In hindsight the only way I think to make sure it was done right would have been to check the installation instructions and then worked with them to make sure it was done right. Exhausting having to second guess everything.

Flooring started to go on today. I had to pre-insulate the floor round the edges where the wall sits on top as this will not be accessible later on. I used hemp insulation here as it was the closest to wood fiber I could get at short notice in the sizes I need

This is why I love forums. This seems like a great idea to give extra protection incase of failure, I don't think I would have though about doing this. Some other ideas I might incorporate would be to 1. staple the concrete DPM to the racking board to give an extra back dam. 2. On the lowest/bottom wood fibre board tuck external membrane inside the tongue and groove of the board. This means if any water makes its way under the membrane at the top it will never get past the last 600mm of membrane and boards. It means wasting a some membrane to achieve this (cutting standard width down to 800mm or soo. The alternative is to lap the membranes in the usual way by this would rely on the membrane being taped to the wood fibre for 50 years or so without failing. Since in Scotland we normally have a brick cavity in front of our timber frames I think it worth thinking about ways we can engineer our walls to be more robust.

One of the steels in position. We used my dad’s digger to lift the beam in position. Reckon it weights around 300kg

Preparing the steel that will sit inside the floor assembly. Needed to metal screw a 5x2 piece of wood with a plywood packer to the top, drill some mounting holes and also cut to length.

Hello, I have a similar problem. Here is my condition.. Restrict Occupation: The occupation of the dwelling hereby approved shall be limited to a person solely or mainly employed, or last employed, in connection with the Hay Barn on Land 255 Metres North of (Parents) Farm or a dependant of such a person residing with him or her, or a widow or widower of such a person. Pretty nasty as it connects my shed to my new house and makes it impossible to sell the house by itself which is the definition of an issue. The second part of the below bullet points is new, i've been checking this for years on the HMRC website and never seen this before. You are not eligible to use this scheme if you’ve: constructed a property that, because of a condition in the planning permission (or similar permission such as a planning agreement), cannot be disposed of or used separately constructed a property that either you, or your relatives, do not intend to live in but intend to sell or let out or use for any other business purpose — a business purpose also includes a dwelling built because you need to live where you work What really bugs me is my house is the only one in my area that has this specific condition. All my peers who are also building now on their parents farm land have no conditions attached. I think I caught my local areas planning department in a transition phase when they moved from applying general ag tie to now zero ties. Somewhere in the middle they decided to make their own custom and specific ties which look to be very hard to reclaim the vat on. My plan was to get the condition removed via a section 42 form, I have 1 month left before my 3 year window of opportunity closes to do this. My fear is, if I get the condition changed, it will trigger a new planning approval and hence I may not be able to claim vat back on all purchases I have made to date, roughly £100k. @Shanemac I would love to hear your experiences

Rim beam, Joists and Glulam arrived today. Can't wait to start building the floor.

Thanks Gone west, I didn't think about the DPM, I think I still have that option available as I haven't cut the dpm back yet.

Hi James, do you have any details on the junction where the bottom of the wall meets the foundation. My wall is similar to yours, did you tape/seal the membrane to the foundation. My architect has this detail for mine but I'm worried water could leak behind the membrane and then pool at the foundation level as it is now sealed by the tape.

Im trying to think of ways to improve the wall to isoquick junction at the bottom of the wall. The wood fibre adds protection from water entering higher up the wall but when it reaches the Isoquick, if trapped behind the membrane there is a direct path into the sole plate. Thinking about adding a chamfer to the Isoquick to drop the external wood fibre down 10mm or so to create a ledge making it harder for the water to get in.

How did you get on with proforma invoices HMRC say that do not accept proforma invoices for vat reclaim?

We decided to go ahead and fix the bolt issue later if needed. The contractor also removed and reinserted some concrete screws to place shims under the sole plate. Concrete screws don't work as well after remover and reinsertion. The latest frame saga is the window lintels not fitting under the head binder. This means the walls are not properly tied together. I haven't ordered the lintels yet as they have a long lead-time but until we redesign the walls and floor I don't know what to order. This is really frustrating as I brought this issue up when I made my model.

Just noticed my joiner has fixed the sole plate down with 7.5 x 120mm concrete screws at 400mm centres into my slab. The fixing schedule calls for rawl bolt concrete anchors which are M8 x 120mm. These Rawl bolts are actually 10mm in diameter so prob more of a difference than he thought. I looked up the specs and the 7.5mm concrete screws hold about 1.8kn while the rawl bolt anchors hold 24kn so more than ten times as strong. Stuff like this drives me mental especially as we live in a very windy site, I think it is also prob not an issue as the house will probably weigh enough to hold itself down. This is why self build is so stressful if you are a perfectionist in the mechanical/structural stuff. Possible fixes I can think of if it's an issue are. 1. remove the screws and drill bigger, the 7.5mm screws are actually 7.5mm so a 8mm drill should clear out all the concrete that has been cut by the flutes leaving a new hole to start again. Downside is I will need to get bolts and take the time to do it. They were going to stand the walls tomorrow. We don't have the floor joists or scaffolding for three weeks so there will be a break in the meantime anyway. Could not stand the wall and change the bolts anyway 2. Forget about it and don't tell building control or the engineer. 3. Leave the screws in and fix longer correct bolts near the originals. I don't like this so much as I dont know where the old screws are. I could mark the sole plate for the screw locations, possible fix for that issue. There are also about 15 heavy duty glued in hold down brackets on the gables and front wall. The engineer hasn't replied yet but I'm assuming these will be the main hold down/racking points and maybe the concrete screws are redundant. If this is the case that just leave the back wall to fix down.

Hi Kelvin its 110m2 basic rectangle with porch sticking out. The £16k was the joiner telling me how much his last two project were. I think they were bigger footprint with more technical bits sticking out but somewhat comparable. It was up for over a year I think. Where about's in Perthshire are you? Would you mind sharing the details for your scaffolder? How long ago was your build. My dad has about 50% of the quick stage scaffolding needed, another option would be to buy the remaining parts I need and then get someone to build it and get a ticket on it. Not sure how hard that will be to get someone to do that but things are quieter in the building trade now. @Gus Potter My engineer was a fixed price job about 5-6K if I remember. What is the protocol when I start asking lots of questions that take up the engineers time. Is this included in a fixed package or should I be looking to pay for his time. My view is I am clarifying his original design and not asking for new work but I'm not sure.

Anyone know where I can get GL28h from stock?

Joiners arrived today to check out the slab. They plan on starting on Monday. Just noticed that all my timber engineered lintels that I have yet to purchase are all non standard in dimensions and also in grade. They are GL28h, only GL24h is kept in the uk everything else needs to be ordered with a 1 month lead time. I don't know why he would use such a specific and hard to get beam. I could redesign the beams to be stock uk items but this will take time and cost me his time I would guess. Definitely feels like I'm lurching from one expensive balls up to the next. Also just found out the scaffolding will be in the region of £16k, I was budgeting for around 2-3K.

Yeah our architects house has a concrete floor. I have always liked a concrete floor. My only major concern is staining

Planning on using the bare concrete. I don’t see why I couldn’t change to resin or micro cement so it’s nice to have that backup

Total cost for the slab was within £100 of £25000. 120 square metres This was for isoquick aggragates rebar concrete labour and pump to pour and finish concrete does Not include my time and the Sewar pipes and under floor heating

That’s good. Are you using the concrete as your finished floor surface?

I should mention there is also 16mm glued in threaded rod for the hold down brackets with are Simpson htt4. There is about 27 of these, some are internal for racking walls. How worried should I be about drilling 140 holes in the slab. Any chance it will make a meaning full crack that will radiate much past the hole itself. Not that there is any alternative really.