Nick Laslett

Great job. I really enjoyed all the metal framing I did on my place. We had drop ceiling on the ground and first floor. I also had metal frame stud walls and needed two access hatches for AAV access.

That must be a newish policy, I have a 4G data sim from O2 in a router at my site. Been using it for 5 years. No voice calls ever made. Maybe this is for 5G sims. It is a TP Link sim router. Seems fine. Powered connection improves 4G reception. The Wi-Fi signal is adequate.

I put one of these Intatec flow balancing valves on each of my manifolds on the basis of watching this heat geek install video. This maybe an unnecessary addition, but I wanted a way to control the flow rate at manifold level. Specifically because the upstairs manifold loops need restricting in heating season, but to be fully open for cooling. https://www.intatec.co.uk/product/flow-balancing-valve/ Not really that relevant to the topic at hand, but I just remembered it, so thought it would do no harm posting it here. This link should go to the specific timestamp at 10 min mark of the HeatGeek install. If Adam and Roger both thought it was worth including in the edit of the video, it can’t be too superfluous!

I agree that the Panasonic’s Aquarea website and brochures are a bit of a mess. They also seem keen on various bundles that complicate the situation. I think the newer “L” series is finally available standalone. If you are happy with R32 coolant then the “J” series monoblock is what you want. T-cap is for very low outside temps. 5kW, 7kW, 9kW are all the same single fan machine: WH-MDC—J3E5, 05,07,09 in place of the two dashes. The Secon Renewables website is the best place to look at the various Panasonic ASHPs offering. https://www.seconrenewables.com/panasonic-heat-pumps-266-c.asp

Robin Clevett has a Lindab guttering install video on Skill Builder. If you fall down the rabbit hole far enough, you can find Lindab documentation that informs that you can use a metal chop saw for cutting the material. http://publications.lindab.com/UK/rainline-brochure/?Page=2&page=46 Even the product sheet for the downpipe mentions chop saws. https://www.lindabprofile.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lindab-Downpipe-SROR-Data-Sheet.pdf Obviously a hacksaw is the simplest method. They also have touch-up paint for the cut edges and drill holes, how necessary this is, is anyone’s guess.

One of the YouTuber’s I follow, actually posted a pitched warm roof video today.

@Mattg4321, thank you for reporting back with your update. It is so important people do this. I’m glad you found a solution.

Did the weekly Legionnaires thing get mentioned yet?

There are specifics to each ICF system. With Thermohouse, you could safety order aluminium windows off plan, with a standard 10mm margin on top, bottom and sides to the rough opening as you would do with a replacement window. With Thermohouse, they have a specific check reveal block for windows and doors. The rough opening is EPS on all four sides. You could very easily rasp back the EPS by 5mm, if the windows don’t quite fit. With Thermohouse they want all the measurements to be divisible by 150mm, to help with the cuts, not happening where the flanges are. This also helps ensure they follow the plan.

This is a very good video by Robin Clevett on 2024 BR Warm Roof install. Might be a bit OTT for you requirements.

@JamesPa, that was my reaction when I watched an Urban Plumber YouTube video, hand waving away the need for insulation under a slab. This guy is a Heat Geek certified installer, even done a few videos with head Geek Adam. Reading the YouTube comments it appeared I was wrong and that the ground actually works as a thermal store! You just need to be wary of high water table and underground water courses, that will remove heat more quickly. For clarification, I would personally advocate for an insulated raft foundation.

@richo106, I have not been following this thread, but I feel your pain now that the cold winter weather has arrived. I’m not familiar with this approach or the design trade offs. I have no special knowledge about UFH installs. Just another amateur forum member. This blog advocates against using aluminium spreader plates with ASHP. They say it will need flow temp as high as 55°C, not 35°C. https://underfloorheating1.co.uk/blog/article/Water_Underfloor_Heating_and_Aluminium_Spreader_Plates?srsltid=AfmBOoositKuZ1fOjlxZgV8ygJwVgrd35zIhyDGKj6mPuA0uxoPp7vSo The approach they advocate, might be a possible retro fit. But still a lot of work. https://underfloorheating1.co.uk/blog/article/Can_I_have_underfloor_heating_with_joisted_floors?srsltid=AfmBOopQsQvvgP2zHQn6UMCldTzV5P6j8MawfYv3Le-SGh1CHtie8wYo

ICF can be quick. Our Thermohouse crew of three guys assembled the ground floor walls in 4 days, then spent 4 days bracing and erecting the scaffold platform, then poured the walls on the Friday of the second week. So 10 working days from blank foundation to poured concrete ground floor walls.

Earlier thread on same topic, which didn’t really reach any conclusions. 5mm mesh seems like a better size, but if Zehnder and Lindab both use 10mm, there must be a good reason. Some expensive options from this company. https://www.expandedmetalcompany.com/applications/filtration/air-filtration

I actually think the ones in my picture and link are galvanised steel. Looking at our flashing schedule they called it “Trocal Metal” https://grc.sika.com/dam/dms/gr01/3/010945011000000001_Sika_Trocal_Metal_Sheet_Type_S_eng.pdf I’m not sure why I thought they were aluminium. So ours are galvanised steel too.

“Sika Sarnafil Single Ply Trims” appears to be the magic words. https://cwgsheetmetal.co.uk/roof-flashings-edging-trims/#3 USA website here with lots of detail pictures, which give an idea. https://www.hickmanedgesystems.com/brands/sika-roofing Good video showing how membrane and trims are fitted. https://youtu.be/V7zutZU_Jwc?si=SPFDU7ByOXvNTPGI

@Mulberry View, not the exact same finish requirements, but here are some pictures of how they did our flat roof. Aluminium trims are fitted at the same time as the Sika membrane. The bespoke Aluminium Trim appears to be riveted to the Sika membrane. Then another strip of membrane is glued over the top. Hard to tell, but from left to right it goes: slate tile, lead, aluminium, membrane strip, membrane. For your detail, you would have a bespoke piece of aluminium to cover the curb.

@Alan Ambrose https://www.paulheatrecovery.co.uk/product/filter-cone-125/ Use on kitchen extract.

I find these websites are quite good for colour matching. https://www.colorxs.com/color/bs-18-b-29-blue https://www.e-paint.co.uk/colour-alternatives.asp?cRange=BS+4800/5252&cRef=18+B+29&cDescription=Raven

@Alan Ambrose, it is a very long time since I looked at this (2021), but I believe if you are on an STP, then all the house vent stacks can be on AAV. The STP has a vent to the outside. Mains drainage may have different requirement. I had my drainage design drawn up by Ingent Drainage. All the documents submitted to my BCO by my Architect show only AAVs, and when I had the first fix inspection, that is what he saw installed. Unlike a lot of my build, this is one area where my Architect handled the process, liaised with Ingent Drainage and presented me with a finished design. I had no input. I’m sure there is a much earlier discussion here about AAVs that corroborates the design I was given. https://www.bpfpipesgroup.com/media/73916/Air-admittance-valves-for-domestic-properties-v2-Jan-2024.pdf Some other links:

My windows are all sitting on the EPS cavity closer in the middle of the ICF block. The largest window is 2730mm x 1750mm. They are aluminium frames, with 190mm cills. 27mm thick double glazed units, weighing approx 25kg / m2. Thermohouse EPS is slightly denser than Nudura at 24 kg/m³ vs 21 kg/m³. For reference Marmox XPS shower formers have a density of 36 kg/m³. They have been in over 3 years and seem to be alright.

I’ve mentioned this before, but my ground floor UFH was installed with every pipe run being about 10m shorter than the loopCAD design, essentially missing at least one loop in each room. Unfortunately, even though I diligently took many photos of the install, I didn’t actually notice the shorter runs until many years after the foundation had been poured. One room is particularly bad. Don’t know what the installer was thinking. If you compare the picture to the design it makes no sense. Wrong loop pattern too. I was still very green at this stage of the build.

You have an STP, just use AAV for SVP stack.

I’m sure you are already on top of this, but my understanding is there are specific fire regs that dictate how you finish an attached garage. But I could be mistaken. So PB with 30 min fire rating is possibly required.

This is my best guess, but remember I’m just an amateur like you. What did the Structural engineer’s drawings specify? Their raft foundation design will be based on the structure that is being built and the ground conditions. They would have to incorporate the extra weight of the block and beam floor in the raft design, if that is what is specified. You can discuss this with your Structural Engineer, or talk directly with BCO. You are allowed to challenge your architect. Based on my very limited knowledge, I would be very surprised if you need a raft and block and beam, but I could be wrong. Others with more experience are sure to come along and comment. But not every post gets attention. Sounds like crossed wires, or lost in translation, or missing info. These two gentlemen @Gus Potter, @saveasteading are very knowledgeable, and much better qualified than me, and might happen on your post. Good luck.