Nick Laslett

This is a very good video by Robin Clevett on 2024 BR Warm Roof install. Might be a bit OTT for you requirements.

@JamesPa, that was my reaction when I watched an Urban Plumber YouTube video, hand waving away the need for insulation under a slab. This guy is a Heat Geek certified installer, even done a few videos with head Geek Adam. Reading the YouTube comments it appeared I was wrong and that the ground actually works as a thermal store! You just need to be wary of high water table and underground water courses, that will remove heat more quickly. For clarification, I would personally advocate for an insulated raft foundation.

@richo106, I have not been following this thread, but I feel your pain now that the cold winter weather has arrived. I’m not familiar with this approach or the design trade offs. I have no special knowledge about UFH installs. Just another amateur forum member. This blog advocates against using aluminium spreader plates with ASHP. They say it will need flow temp as high as 55°C, not 35°C. https://underfloorheating1.co.uk/blog/article/Water_Underfloor_Heating_and_Aluminium_Spreader_Plates?srsltid=AfmBOoositKuZ1fOjlxZgV8ygJwVgrd35zIhyDGKj6mPuA0uxoPp7vSo The approach they advocate, might be a possible retro fit. But still a lot of work. https://underfloorheating1.co.uk/blog/article/Can_I_have_underfloor_heating_with_joisted_floors?srsltid=AfmBOopQsQvvgP2zHQn6UMCldTzV5P6j8MawfYv3Le-SGh1CHtie8wYo

ICF can be quick. Our Thermohouse crew of three guys assembled the ground floor walls in 4 days, then spent 4 days bracing and erecting the scaffold platform, then poured the walls on the Friday of the second week. So 10 working days from blank foundation to poured concrete ground floor walls.

Earlier thread on same topic, which didn’t really reach any conclusions. 5mm mesh seems like a better size, but if Zehnder and Lindab both use 10mm, there must be a good reason. Some expensive options from this company. https://www.expandedmetalcompany.com/applications/filtration/air-filtration

I actually think the ones in my picture and link are galvanised steel. Looking at our flashing schedule they called it “Trocal Metal” https://grc.sika.com/dam/dms/gr01/3/010945011000000001_Sika_Trocal_Metal_Sheet_Type_S_eng.pdf I’m not sure why I thought they were aluminium. So ours are galvanised steel too.

“Sika Sarnafil Single Ply Trims” appears to be the magic words. https://cwgsheetmetal.co.uk/roof-flashings-edging-trims/#3 USA website here with lots of detail pictures, which give an idea. https://www.hickmanedgesystems.com/brands/sika-roofing Good video showing how membrane and trims are fitted. https://youtu.be/V7zutZU_Jwc?si=SPFDU7ByOXvNTPGI

@Mulberry View, not the exact same finish requirements, but here are some pictures of how they did our flat roof. Aluminium trims are fitted at the same time as the Sika membrane. The bespoke Aluminium Trim appears to be riveted to the Sika membrane. Then another strip of membrane is glued over the top. Hard to tell, but from left to right it goes: slate tile, lead, aluminium, membrane strip, membrane. For your detail, you would have a bespoke piece of aluminium to cover the curb.

@Alan Ambrose https://www.paulheatrecovery.co.uk/product/filter-cone-125/ Use on kitchen extract.

I find these websites are quite good for colour matching. https://www.colorxs.com/color/bs-18-b-29-blue https://www.e-paint.co.uk/colour-alternatives.asp?cRange=BS+4800/5252&cRef=18+B+29&cDescription=Raven

@Alan Ambrose, it is a very long time since I looked at this (2021), but I believe if you are on an STP, then all the house vent stacks can be on AAV. The STP has a vent to the outside. Mains drainage may have different requirement. I had my drainage design drawn up by Ingent Drainage. All the documents submitted to my BCO by my Architect show only AAVs, and when I had the first fix inspection, that is what he saw installed. Unlike a lot of my build, this is one area where my Architect handled the process, liaised with Ingent Drainage and presented me with a finished design. I had no input. I’m sure there is a much earlier discussion here about AAVs that corroborates the design I was given. https://www.bpfpipesgroup.com/media/73916/Air-admittance-valves-for-domestic-properties-v2-Jan-2024.pdf Some other links:

My windows are all sitting on the EPS cavity closer in the middle of the ICF block. The largest window is 2730mm x 1750mm. They are aluminium frames, with 190mm cills. 27mm thick double glazed units, weighing approx 25kg / m2. Thermohouse EPS is slightly denser than Nudura at 24 kg/m³ vs 21 kg/m³. For reference Marmox XPS shower formers have a density of 36 kg/m³. They have been in over 3 years and seem to be alright.

I’ve mentioned this before, but my ground floor UFH was installed with every pipe run being about 10m shorter than the loopCAD design, essentially missing at least one loop in each room. Unfortunately, even though I diligently took many photos of the install, I didn’t actually notice the shorter runs until many years after the foundation had been poured. One room is particularly bad. Don’t know what the installer was thinking. If you compare the picture to the design it makes no sense. Wrong loop pattern too. I was still very green at this stage of the build.

You have an STP, just use AAV for SVP stack.

I’m sure you are already on top of this, but my understanding is there are specific fire regs that dictate how you finish an attached garage. But I could be mistaken. So PB with 30 min fire rating is possibly required.

This is my best guess, but remember I’m just an amateur like you. What did the Structural engineer’s drawings specify? Their raft foundation design will be based on the structure that is being built and the ground conditions. They would have to incorporate the extra weight of the block and beam floor in the raft design, if that is what is specified. You can discuss this with your Structural Engineer, or talk directly with BCO. You are allowed to challenge your architect. Based on my very limited knowledge, I would be very surprised if you need a raft and block and beam, but I could be wrong. Others with more experience are sure to come along and comment. But not every post gets attention. Sounds like crossed wires, or lost in translation, or missing info. These two gentlemen @Gus Potter, @saveasteading are very knowledgeable, and much better qualified than me, and might happen on your post. Good luck.

Maybe I’m wrong, but isn’t water vapour lighter than air? ChatGPT, Gemini, and Grok all seem to think so? Science is not my strong point, so easily confused by these topics. I appreciate our A.I. Overlords can’t be trusted, but I do live in hope.

Here is some more material for anyone that is interested. A short paper by Zehnder comparing an ERV & HRV in the same house in Rotterdam over two consecutive 8 day periods during winter. Doesn’t seem particularly rigorous or compelling, but does confirm the humidity is 10% higher with ERV with colder weather. https://www.zehnder-systems.ch/fileadmin/user_upload/CH/HUB/Mythen_und_Legenden/the_effect_of_enthalpy_recovery_ventilation_on_the_residential_indoor_climate_-_aivc2014.pdf.pdf

Another useful source for why you might want to specify an Enthalpy exchange core. https://www.heatspaceandlight.com/whats-difference-between-mvhr-heat-exchanger-enthalpy-moisture/

I have the Zehnder enthalpy exchanger in my Q600 unit. This decision was based on my understanding that in a large volume house with low occupancy, there was potential for the air to get too dry. See thread linked below with post from @Dan F @lizzie changed her MVHR to an Enthalpy core, due to excessive dry air. Zehnder webinar, with is quite interesting, has Q&A at the end.

When I enquired with Paul Heat Recovery about the Zehnder ComfoClime, they actually recommended the ComfoPost as a better solution. They are both quite pricey, but the ComfoPost is a bit simpler and cheaper than the ComfoClime. General consensus here is that these solutions are not that effective at providing any real cooling. We have the ComfoPost, but it is not commissioned yet. I’m happy if it only takes 2°C off the room temps in summer. The ASHP is doing the heavy lifting in my cooling approach.

I wonder what wild life a steady supply of cooking grease would create in a warmish, sheltered vented space like this? You could develop quite an ecosystem after a few years. Makes me think of the warm water outflows at a Nuclear power station, and how it attracts massive amounts of marine life. Perhaps it is a situation to try and avoid.

I ordered my Newel Posts from Pears. Happy with the service and the quality of the product.

Here are the bookmarked threads I have on this topic. We have Suncool SN70/35 coated glass, which still lets in some heat. Visually on the inside it has no impact.

@Mattg4321, I did link to the iPad/iphone spectrum analysis tool I use earlier in this thread.