MPH243
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Everything posted by MPH243
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That looks really good, I have done a real wood parquet and it was hard work keeping it straight as each block was slightly difference size(as wood is), I guess lvt is just keeping the angle correct. I have fitted a SPC and normal, the SPC does feel difference and it is not supposed to expand much I think it's a 12m run. It has been down 3 years and no problem but only has 1 french door onto it.
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Looks very nice Yes do what has been described above. Also leave a expansion along the doors with trim fixed to doors. The guys I work for fitted some and it buckled in front of the bifold doors, I took it up and relaid it and made sure all expansion gaps etc, and it still buckled. We think it's was the flooring but I would always leave a gap now as it is a massive hassle if it goes wrong. And do not do H pattern it is even more likely to happen.
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The brass that the olive is trying to compress into is harder than the olive so won't deform, it's normal. It may have a joint under the floor that is designed to spin hopefully. You will just have to keep checking for leaks. Is this a concrete or wood floor, if wood can you take any up to check it?
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I have fitted a couple, it is basically same as wood laminate be careful with the short joints when tapping down they can crack if not right. Make sure you have expansion gaps around the edges.
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You are not dumb, you got this far. @Nickfromwales was meaning loosen the nut against the tap a little this will allow it to spin, Then if you have the spanner handles close to each other so when doing up they close up the gap(kep fingers out of the gap it can hurt if it slips😂). You should not turn the pipe, then tighten nut to tap. Did the tap and all pipe work spin under the floor? As nick said get this connected and see if the other leaks.
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One spanner on nut and second one on the hex above male thread(it's not very big), should stop everything spinning. The olive won't compress on the brass but will seal with jointing compound.
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Yes that's well spotted too, I did see but ignored them. People will hate posting pics in case we find more problems in the back ground.
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The washer is cross threaded, either a new washer or what they said above.
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If you can turn the push down plug bit it can be unscrewed to change the push bit. A suction cup might pull it up if it's strong enough?
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I I think these are the type of screws for hangers etc. https://www.tcfixings.co.uk/product/simpson-tx20-csa-connector-screws-50mm-x-35mm/17499?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17347847741&gbraid=0AAAAADfLLCp7Mywl_VK9JlivX3AWSyoTk&gclid=Cj0KCQjwk5nVBhDiARIsAHNGqadLNGLJMo6ttMmHRe1au_g_ycT8PQaa09USMbr3oTc-UsjKuZZcrDoaAqAKEALw_wcB Normal screws are not suitable, these have a shoulder to fit the hole.
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Trapezoidal / profile roof questions
MPH243 replied to Alan Ambrose's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
I have fitted some and doing some on a small shed tomorrow. Eaves depth 50mm ish to suit gutter. I try to cut the flashing as little as possible as it's the first area to rust and bending is difficult to make good. How complex is the roof? I have only used the foam fillers they do let a bit of ventilation through but stop most of the insects. Never seen the z profile used for ridge unless maybe more commercial / Industrial buildings. Roofing is normally 0.7mm as it's stiffer when walking on. (If flat enough, it's still a slide when wet) I have bought from Cladco they are good quality and never had a problem, but we are close enough to collect small orders as well. -
Anyone know of a 50mm thick solid wood fibre board?
MPH243 replied to Alan Ambrose's topic in Heat Insulation
Have you tried Mike Wye, I don't know how much delivery would be as they are in Devon. -
This puts any of our challenges into perspective
MPH243 replied to saveasteading's topic in Boffin's Corner
I agree kudos to the people involved in all the props going into the building. I don't think I would want to be in there, but I guess the risk of injury/death from collapsing is huge as surrounding buildings could go as well. -
After just using a tape measure it does makes sense for smaller numbers but anything over 1m you measure the easiest way to read the numbers.
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https://amzn.eu/d/01CXoCm6 How about this one
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I have the Q450 the sensors are all in the unit, 1 each side of the heat exchanger on both supply and extract. Mine is the same 100% bypass, I can't connect to mine to show the figures but was the same as yours earlier. I think it's probably the fan warming the air. The bypass takes it over the top of the heat exchanger to miss it. I think if you look this afternoon it goes into reverse and closes the bypass when outside is warmer than the house.
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What did you do that for🤣. Is it a excuse to sit down for a beer.
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What battery drill should I buy? The choice is bewildering.
MPH243 replied to jimseng's topic in Tools & Equipment
I have Makita 18v Lxt but the guys I mainly work for are DeWalt, there is not much difference between them. Get a couple of 4 or 5ah batteries and a make sure it's a fast charger what ever you go for. My Dad has a cheap angle grinder and garden 6 inch chainsaw and blower all work well for occasional use. I also have a Makita Lxt lawnmower, strimmer and hedge cutter so it's worth thinking about when you have finished what garden tools as batteries tools are so much easier and you have the batteries. -
Time for some new Makita goodies- any good deals on?
MPH243 replied to Crofter's topic in Tools & Equipment
Get the Dc18rc quick charger, it is half the time to charge. If you are doing something that drains batteries you will be kicking yourself. (Guess how I know). -
I like the walnut and that it came from your tree. It is also very different colour from nearly all the other stairs you see now.
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@SteamyTea Might be warm but a bit breezy for you 98mph on scilly isles and 89mph at Culdrose. I hope everything stays ok for you.
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Insulating a shed for laundry room?
MPH243 replied to flanagaj's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Yes you can, you could use plywood/osb inside to give fixing for hanging things, and then remove them to move the frame and reassemble. -
Do you have solid metal ducting between mvhr and silencer or foam like this https://www.epicair.co.uk/products/Ubbink-aerfoam-150mm-2m-pipe-insulated-duct?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20379623923&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20375261885&gbraid=0AAAAAD8qV0kJRL43zBaZRBZ16PVsqJvqB&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrojHBhDdARIsAJdEJ_cB4QtbWmQTL0iscIrgurD10fWtrsWbSvCQmMconP2pdEfZATfGfoAaAn-MEALw_wcB If metal the foam might help quiet the noise. Also you could mount the mvhr on rubber washers.
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Identify the Swedish screw (and where can I source it?)
MPH243 replied to oranjeboom's topic in General Joinery
https://www.screw-express.com/screw-self-drilling-large-round-head-hexagon-recess/30203-124561-self-drilling-screw-confirmat-large-round-head-hexagon-recess-7x70-zinc-plated-3663072018877.html?_gl=1*eo8rws*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwobnGBhBNEiwAu2mpFH1Cxg8DJ39ODahMXPc09z93K2CbJyhyqht5d4lmcayjISVIeQezaRoCvdwQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAApFB4C3JbUGttmEI7biA054VR7cNB#/79-conditionnement-1_unit Is this what you want, I only guessed at the diameter so hopefully its close?
