Conor

Done. Quick feedback. The question regarding how much extra you'd be willing to spend on eco features could be broken down into sub categories, e.g heating, insulation, glazing. Also response based on a % value rather than absolute. You can then derive the value from the previous response on the building project value range.

Thats correct. Draws air from behind, expels to the front.

Just use a bit of copper wire to jump the volt free terminal on the unit. It'll get you working. The ashps own timer, flow temp, and weather comp settings will allow you to control the heat in the house.

Would you consider installing the next one in some sort of bund? I've a drain in my plant room I case something goes pop someday.

You'll just need to provide all the usual details . E.g. inverter spec, string / panel layout, and safety certificate. I'm in NI and had no issues but we've no MCS here anyway so comparing apples and oranges.

So this is the outer leaf of a cavity wall your neighbour is building? It's shit brickwork but if it's not yours and fence panels will cover it then where's the issue? Did you allow them access to build from your side or did the brickies have to build from the other side?

What are you building, what stage are you at, what are you comparing your B&B pricing to?

Need more details. Wall construction, purpose, who is building what etc.

Why do you want to use block and beam? What's the usual local way of doing it? Doing something different to what is typically done, will inevitably be more problematic, time consuming and expensive.

It doesn't really happen. We've ours set on weather comp on 7 hours per day (low rate overnight) with single stat set to 19.5c. During cold spells we just manually turn the heating on 24x7. There no need to control rooms individually. As you can see, temperature only varies by 1-1.5c every 24hrs, sitting at an average 28.8c. peaks are either heating periods or having extra people in the house. The big trough was when I had to open the doors to vent the house after some pungent stir frying

Can't you just take them off and replace with M14 nuts or whatever?

In that case upsize to 40mm before it goes through the wall and you won't have any issues. It's a bit of work but it's the proper job and no messing around with insulation.

What diameter is it? Should be 32 or 40mm.

That should work fine.

It doesn't need to be fireproof, check the wording, it's something like "predominantly non combustible materials". It's mostly aimed at reducing spread of fire on the surface of the structure. Basically no timber cladding. I built one with block walls, timber roof with fire retardant GRP covering. I checked with planners and BC through the process and everybody was happy. What's your planned roof?