Conor

I've had a bucket under our mbhr for four years now. It only produces condensate when it's cold and dry outside. Dry most of the time. Maybe makes 10l in a year.

We fitted 100mm EPS on the outside to get our standard amvic blocks to 0.15. it's a LOT of work!!! But relatively easy. If you do PIR inside, you lose space and make fitting plasterboard more problematic - no guide lines for screws and screws will have to be something like 100mm+ We never did a service void, spark was happy to chase out with a hot wire cutter. Nothing else is really run in the external walls

Is agree. UFH all the way in 1st floor. We bought towel rads as well, still sitting in their boxes. As we had concrete and screed 1st floors, cost of UFH on 1st floor was minimal, 500m of pipe, pump and manifold. rads would have coated way more and compromised the rooms.

Yes, I would. A few long screws would do the job well. For the sake of £10 and less than an hour of work.

We've sockets with USB A and C ports in them through the entire house. It's wonderful, no longer need to faff around looking for a charger, or not having enough sockets. Ours are Click brand and we've not had a single failure 5 years in. The C ports are more powerful than the A ports and most of our plugin chargers.

Where is the water currently discharging to?

Worked on various projects in the middle east where TSE (treated sewage effulant) is used for municipal irrigation. It's common and perfectly safe for non-crop irrigation. But it all depends on your treatment system and what standard of effulant comes out. Storage, distribution and handling needs to be thought out and designed. To be honest, I'd just get a couple large rainwater storage tanks (e.g IBCs) instead. Two IBCs will irrigate a medium sized garden for a minimum 20 days with no top-up. Tanks, connectors, pump etc will come in at less than £300.

A few insights from my ICF build. The planks can only partially bear as you have vertical rebar coming up from the wall below that needs to tie into the next wall. You don't need to seal up the end of the slabs - a combination of the small diameter of the holes, interference from rebar, and by not working the concrete at that point (poker will vibrate the concrete at the bottom of the formwork), it simply won't flow in more than a short lenght if the consistency of the concrete is correct. You won't have an issue unless you are using an overly low slump / high flowing mix. Also, you normally need to bend over a certain number of the vertical bars and break into the planks. Then get grouted in, in order to tie the floor to the wall.

I'd just bring out a stud wall to the top step to ~1m height.

I used the HEP20 3/4 - 15mm push fit directly into my cross water mixer. A bit of PTFE on the threads. No issues 5 years in.

Ours were all screwed directly to the icf (amvic). Just need to chase out the cable runs in advance with a hot wire cutter. Battening out is not required, more money, time, no performance gain, and less space in your rooms.

Phone Scottish water and they will send somebody out to sort it.

Waterproof PVA 🤣 A smear of silicone Lick of varnish Used all three from time to time and all good options. Waterproof PVA would be my choice if it's MDF, silicone if it's chipboard.

I made sure the washout area was a spot that would be later paved / concreted over. Each time there was a dump of concrete or cement, I'd rake it out flat and level. Ended up covering a good 20m²+ and 100mm+ thick by the time we were done. Concrete pumps produce a lot of waste!

Don't do any filling now, give it a year to let any drying/ movement/expansion/contraction finish off. And when you do, rake out any narrow cracks with edge of a paint scraper before filling.