Conor

As above, the self adhesive clip rails are great. Lay them out, stick them down, then start laying your pipe, dead easy to get spacing set. You need a few staples on the bends.

Your gate kit should have them included or at least the spec. Mine required 12mm SS rods cast into the concrete. Think they had to be 250mm long, 50mm proud, 200mm set in. A rather large sliding gate tho.

We have a GRP balcony with 600x400 pavers on pedestals, brick pattern. You need one at each corner. They are fine set directly on the fibreglass, no other layer needed. For up against the edges, you can normally cut off one side of the pedestal base so you can pretty much get it right up to the wall. I put a dab of adhesive on the ones at the door thresholds that were partial cut slabs. Keeps them steady. I'm assuming your deck has a fall? You might need to mess around with glazing packers to get things right if the fall is greater than the float in the pedestals. It's an easy, satisfying job. I wouldn't even consider adhesive and grout, it'll fail eventually.

You just need WiFi. We've NO signal in our basement, very intermittent on the ground floor. No issues with WiFi calling enabled.

Magnet is great method. Put a bit of card between the magnet and the wall so you don't mark it. Use it all the time in our ICF house as there is no other way to find the plastic webs

Open cut and reinstatement will be the fastest and cheapest option. Ask around for a contractor that can do this. Biggest hurdle will be road opening license and utility searches / tracing / trial holes etc. the work itself is less than a day for a small crew. I've a mate that does this sort of work, based in Dundrum and works all over Co. Down, Armagh and Antrim. He's usually super busy and hard to get hold of tho! Esp now as he'll be maxed out doing pothole work.

Just use standard PVC pipe and surround in concrete. There should be a detail in the BC regs for this. What fall do you have with that cover? If it all goes wrong in the future, then you can look at a new connection. Definitely worth the gamble.

Unrelated, but one of my worst mountain bike crashes was due to a pothole. Towards the end of the Mega Avalanche qualifying, cruising down a short section of connecting road, had one hand off the bar to give it a rest from the brake pump. Hit a hidden pothole, next thing I knew I was about 20m further down staring up at the trees. Knocked myself out, broke my helmet and cam, slightly concussed and had whiplash for three months. Worst part was I was running well in the top 25, maybe 10, and was only 5mins from the end of the run. bike was fine tho 🤣

Is the track higher than the floor level? If so then just pour the SLC upto the current floor level and work gently with a flat trowel. Just make sure the channel is cleared of dust, dampen a bit with a sprayer or wet sponge. No need to prime. Tape over the track to protect it

Self levelling compound.

Anything you put there will be full of roots in a few years anyway. On the plus side, with the hawthorn the ground will be quite dry. Id just backfill with 12mm clean stone.

Need to see the whole floor layout and the ground floor for context. And don't be afraid of moving stairs, not as difficult or as expensive as you might imagine. In your first drawing you're losing a lot of valuable space to corridor.

You're not a proper DIYer until you've put a foot through a ceiling.

Increase the floor build up by 50mm to 200mm - 150mm insulation, 50mm liquid screed. Then either live with 50mm lower ground floor ceilings, or raise everything up by 50mm, which nobody will ever notice.

We had that. Renders put another skim in the affected areas, not noticeable since.