Conor

For cooling just set the thermostat way way up so it never turns off. make sure all of your zones are open, diverter valve in right position, select a sensible flow temp (e.g. 12c) and see how it goes.

How deep is the void under the floor? Is there an option to rip out all the timber, lay and compact hardcore, a load of EPS insulation, then a screed floor with UFH? UFH on a suspended floor with only 100mm wool type insulation is going to be expensive to run.

The cheats way to grade is to set the bucket at the required position and track backwards. Works well if the ground is level in the direction you are tracking.

Have you tried a broker? We went through Kerr group and got a great price with LV, £350 I think.

Yes, UFH on both ground and first floor.

If you are altering the existing conversion, then the whole lot would have to meet current regs. That would include everything from the internal doors in hhe house (fire safety), stairs (access /egress) insulation, structure, ventilation etc. for pricing, assume the whole lot would need to be brought up to modern standards.

12c I think. Not used it yet this year.

We use our ASHP to cool our house now and again on the rare occasions temps are in the high 20s. It takes the edge off. Maybe 5c after a couole of days constsnt running? It's would not work at all in 35-45c. you need an air flow based system.

It's practice. I've hired machines on about 6 occasions over the last few years. So probably have about 300hours experience now. Not much, but Ive learned a lot on that time. Other tip I'd add is, the bigger the machines the easier it is to operate and the more stable it is. My approach when hiring is to get the biggest machine available for the job. A 5 tonne will do almost any job on a site, as long as you have the manoeuvring space.

If these are the architects own clients, maybe the issue is with the design of the build, not the ASHP? 🤣 You'll get dozens of replies endorsing ASHPs here, and few, if any for GSHPs.

That would be a huge amount of hassle for very little gain. And assuming this is facing the street, you'll likely not planning permission as it'll look all wrong.

I don't know what else you can do other than more silicone?! If it's been installed as per their instructions, and it still leaks, I'd be asking for a refund. There's nothing wrong with your tray or tiling, so it's down to the design. We've two fixed panel shower screens in our house and both are installed with a wall fixed channel with rubber seals, and nothing on the base. no issues with either and minimal silicone sealing on the dry side.

Well, there's your problem. There should have been. Glass needs to be removed, channel cleaned out and proper seals installed. Call the manufacturer for replacement seals and proper instructions. The seals not only keep water out, they anchor the glass in place.

I'm assuming there is a rubber strip seal between the frame and glass? That is how it normally works. it should be well pressedd in, with no bumps or dips. There's no need for any silicone etc within the channel.

You normally don't seal the frame on the wet side, just the dry side. This is so any water that gets in to the channel will drain out on the wet side. Same for the bottom on the wet side, my instructions said to leave this clear so water can drain out. Yours appears all sealed up, so water that gets in will build up until it finds the easiest way out.