Conor

NIE won't allow any of the suggestions above. At a push, they will allow a cavity meter box installed into a wall attached to the house, but within 2m of your consumer unit. We were in similar situation with our ICF build. Architect suggested either fitting in the return wall, or by building a false wall type protrusion against the house and flashing it into the main wall. First option was a no as we didn't have the return wall built, and the second option would potentially cause issues. In the end, as I added 100mm additional insulation, we had the depth to cut out insulation and fit a standard cavity box against the concrete core. A minor cold bridge in the grand scheme of things. For you, I'd suggest the return cavity wall, if it fits in with your landscaping plans.

Looks like water is running down the pipe from above. Likely an ill-fitting tap letting water down from splashes in the sink area.

We had to build over a shared pipe at our last place. It was original 1950s clay... we added an inspection chamber upstream of the foundation, and replaced the 8m or so of clay pipe with PVC. Its not difficult or expensive. A diversion may be more problematic if you have to introduce bends and changes in fall.

Where did you get the tiles from? We had similar format tiles years ago, cheap from B&Q. Tiler immediately showed us how uneven and warped they were and that he wouldn't be able to do a perfect job. But this looks more than irregular tiles

We had a similar issue with a door frame. We didn't want the faff of removal and waiting months for a replacement, so we compromised and they sent somebody out to spray paint the inside. Flawless and you woulnt know the difference unless you got down and had a really close look. Start thinking along those lines and what compromise you might be willing to meet. As above, all comes down to the spec / order sheet you signed. our window were very thorough and clear in this regard. Had a simple one pager with the big items like quantity, colours, spec, and then a full booklet with the extreme details of every individual unit.

A better way to do it is to aim for a total heat demand / load per m² and make sure your build hits that through design choices and build quality. E.g. PH standard of 10W m² and take if from there. Decide what you want from your house, how you want it to feel and perform, and design accordingly.

What's in the cavities? Have you checked? And as Redbeard says, you want 400mm in the loft. It's by far the easiest and most cost effective way to improve insulation in the house. A few have mentioned drafts, but if you have condensation issues, im not sure that's a big issue.

Make sure the foul is the lower of the two pipes. Check the building regs, for pipes that shallow you might have to cover in concrete. Paving might not meet the needs.

This will be one for insurance to sort out. Definitely don't start ripping stuff out. Make the notifications, kick up a fuss, but don't put your hand in your pocket.

Your fridge will make up the shortfall.... And remember that shortfall is on the coldest day of the year. And you've other heat sources in the house, and air movement from other areas. It'll be fine. Move on to the next job.

Stop the leak and park a dehumidifier there for a a few days. Quite possibly do more harm than good lifting the boards.

You assume the role of PC. Just update your documentation etc.

Thick carpet and underlay are your friends here. Job will be done and dusted this time next week and your house will be warmer for it.

We've carpet, towels, LVT and 14mm laminate. All works well. Apart from the but under the 1" thick wool rug 🤣

A weed membrane will stop the roots of any weeds getting down into the soil. But, by that point the plants will be big enough to be a nuisance anyway, so not a huge benefit.