MAB

For info my recent extension in South London was built with 215mm thick Celcon Solar solid block work walls, external face 20mm smooth render, internal face 25mm treated batterns plus 60mm thk Gyproc Thermaline Plasterboard & skim to meet current Building Regs.

I was recommended this useful website below by an Architect friend and using it managed to do all my own Building Reg drawings + notes for a 2 storey extension and then get them approved by my local Building Control.department. BuildingRegs4Plans http://www.buildingregs4plans.co.uk/index.php

I took out a standard 'Party Wall Agreement' with my neighbour which I think covers some things in these situations:- "You must tell your neighbours if you want to carry out any building work near or on your shared property boundary, or ‘party wall’, in England and Wales." When carrying out building works you must: avoid causing unnecessary inconvenience protect your neighbour’s property from damage caused by the works, and fix or pay for any damage that is caused Access to your neighbour’s property Your neighbour must allow surveyors and workmen access to their property during usual working hours to carry out the building works. They must be given 14 days’ notice except in an emergency. https://www.gov.uk/party-walls-building-works/overview

I would be interested in any thoughts or experiences with using this epoxy resin based compound below or any similar jointing material instead of traditional sand and cement mortar as I need to repoint my patio joints again this year? I have tried the brushing in of a sand/cement dry mix into dampened joints technique in previous years but it never seems to last more than a couple of years without crumbling away again and using a wet mortar mix can leave stains on the slabs unless great care (or skill) is taken! "Pavestone Pointfix is a superior two pack multi-use jointing and repair compound. One pack contains epoxy resin within the compound and the other epoxy hardener. Once thoroughly mixed the jointing compound cures to create a permanent hard jointing material. There are no liquids or powders to measure and mix in, so mixing and applying Pavestone Pointfix is much cleaner and easier than traditional sand and cement mortar. Pavestone Pointfix is specifically designed for pointing and infilling between many types of surfaces including concrete paving, natural stone paving, brickwork and stonework. If it rains, or is forecast to rain, completing a traditional pointing project can become a major problem. Pavestone Pointfix eliminates this problem as it can be applied even when the paving or bricks are wet and you can even carry on pointing when it rains." https://www.pavestone.co.uk/technical-information/pointfix-jointing-compound/

I prefer cutting sheet material and boards iin situ with my 85mm saw as it seems easier to handle, plunge cut if needed and steer straight 'freehand' along a line without using any guides when compared with a larger circular saw. Also as has been mentioned less kickback potential, etc. Also seen this B&Q version below but it only a 20mm max depth cut.....as said I only have experience of the Parkside Lidl 'cheap' tool which has exceeded my expectations for the price and is often used in preference to my conventional larger saw. http://www.diy.com/departments/mac-allister-400w-mini-saw-mems400/587920_BQ.prd

I have been impressed by this mini circular plunge saw bought from Lidl for £49.99, 85mm dia blade, 25mm max depth cut. Useful bit of kit for a DIYer because of it's size and price with a 3-year warranty! https://www.lidl.de/de/parkside-tauchsaege-pts-500-a1/p218569 This Worx at Wickes is a similar size and price:- http://www.wickes.co.uk/WORX-350W-85mm-Classic-Worx-Saw-WX422/p/142292?CAWELAID=120135120001211619&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=37524968332&CATCI=pla-75918350782&gclid=CPfh4c3ks9MCFcWVGwodj-8AyA&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks all for the help and suggestions, I like the idea of Nick's air admittance trap.......I did not know these even existed. To be fair to my BCO after 'thinking off the top of his head', he did suggest asking a professional plumber who he thought would probably have a better solution than his to add a suitable vent. He has been quite helpful on other parts of my build and seems open to alternative ways of meeting the various regs.when required, so I think he should be fine with this.

My Building Inspector has suggested I will probably need a 25mm vent pipe to be added to a new branch which is to be added to my existing soil stack layout (rough sketch attached, black is existing, red is the new branch). The new wc branch is 5550mm from the existing soil stack and will serve a new ensuite and an existing bathroom wc as shown. B.Insp says the vent pipe is required to ensure water is not drawn out of the basin and shower traps when flushing the 2 wc's and that the 25mm pipe could extend vertically up into the loft area and change to 50mm at top for a Durgo valve to be fitted. Alternatively he suggested the vent pipe could run horizontally along the top of the new soil pipe branch and drop down into a nearby drain hopper. All pipe work is plastic and external on the side wall of a 1930's detached house.......I would like the solution to be as neat as possible, even though it is reasonably well hidden in a side passage way. Any thoughts or suggestions on if the 25mm vent pipe is needed or any other possible options or layouts would as always be much appreciated.

I am currently building a tiled walk in shower and have decided to use 12mm Hardibacker board for the walls (1200 x 800mm sheets) :- http://www.jameshardie.co.uk/hardiebacker-12mm-cement-board

Thanks for the advice......the only anti slip I have actually seen was on a small sample panel in a local supplier and the texture was like sand as mentioned above. I might go with one of these trays with a ribbed drying area as a compromise.......this Simpsons tray looks the same as the Zamori in links below but cheaper? Simpsons:- https://www.victorianbathrooms4u.com/shower-enclosures/shower-trays/walk-in/simpsons-1700-x-800mm-walk-in-35mm-shower-tray-with-drying-area/ Zamori:- http://www.zamori.co.uk/Products/ProductDetail?prodId=81022&name=Walk-In 1700 x 800 shower tray anti-bacterial %26 anti-slip

I am about to install a 1700 x 800 walk in shower tray in a new ensuite in my recently built bedroom extension and wondered if anyone had any thoughts or recommendations on suitable shower trays with some sort of anti slip coating or feature if possible? Our existing main bathroom has an 800 x 800 shower tray with a ribbed surface which works ok but is maybe more difficult to clean than a smooth surface, most of the large trays I have seen are very smooth and shiny but some have an anti slip coating as an extra cost option. Thanks in advance for any help.

Nick, I am currently looking for a similar 3-way valve......what make is your £80 valve and where can I get one......do you still recommend it?

Thanks everyone for the welcome. I was pleased to find this forum via the thread below (see link to the green building forum) which I found by Google as I guessed there must have been many others disappointed that ebuild was no longer active and seeking to create a replacement. http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14243 MAB is just my initials by the way.....but I like the suggestions, especially "madly ambitious builder" .

Recently registered here after finding ebuild had shut up shop. In recent years I have designed, drawn my own plans and done the building regs plus self-built a couple of extensions on my house so always found ebuild a great resource and was pleased to see Buildhub is now up and running. Currently building a first floor bedroom extension which is now a weathertight shell.

I was recommended this useful website below by an Architect friend and using it managed to do all my own Building Reg drawings + notes and then get them approved by my local Building Control.department. BuildingRegs4Plans http://www.buildingregs4plans.co.uk/index.php