marmic

viking?

Nordica have been brilliant and no BS from day 1. Transparency when asked with regard to product/manufacturer. (companies who rebrand and claim they are the manufacturers annoy me, and you may not even know what you are actually buying!) Site team great. Some slight adjustments required from manufacturing (viking) - Nordica will be returning when scaffold down so windows can be fully opened to do this. Nordica also use Slowinscy which was our original preference and slighty lower cost, but lead times dictated our decision. we are undertaking a preliminary air tightness test so any leaks can be plugged before we plasterboard etc. I'm not expecting any issues as been belt and braces throughout, but you never know! with all windows and doors shut you can really feel the pressure when opening the door which is an excellent sign. Simon also supplied and installed the extended sills with upstands to sides too. In our case wider than windows almost right to the reveals - we'll be lining with timber to match the cladding. Again ensure accurate dims. Extended sills required as windows set back - windows were manufactured with increased dimension at base to ensure a fall on sill. (other suppliers / manufacturers didn't offer or understand - and those who did listen were talking about making windows smaller and adding packers on site - not good!) For door thresholds we used aluminium chequerplate from https://www.chequerplatedirect.co.uk/checker-plate/made-to-measure-door-threshold-cover/ brilliant company/product - bent to required angle too (these are bonded direct to slightly sloped chamfered compacfoam) Installation can be to different levels of performance - in our case to passivhaus stds including air tightness. Also weather seals to external. We decided early on we had to go full supply and install - although were tempted by supply only to save money but just didn't feel comfortable with added risk. Some manufacturers didn't offer supply and install but still quoted supply only and provided details of approved installers claiming this is as good - it isn't as still adds risk as splits responsibility. Suppliers/manufacturers that do offer supply and install be careful and read everything, there was one for example that promised the earth but the quotation firmly excluded weather sealing and air tightness - their rep was arrogant too! And 110% agree with nod - get the dims correct (measure in more than one position), check openings square and include any discrepancies with survey info, and also agree tolerance rationel / dovista / velfac didn't offer supply and install, nor supply only, but instead forwarded enquiry to one of their supply and install distributors which is fine. This company also offer other brands. I had the impression they would have probably done a good job (???) albeit they missed 3 windows and the price tag was still ridiculous! So was a non-starter based on my experience going out to the window and door market the words caveat emptor come to mind! be careful out there!

morning all, Intention is (or was!) to use a galv roll front steel gutter (eg lindab / galeco etc) but must have a spacer (circa 20mm ish) behind fascia bracket for ventilation into roof, and to position gutter correctly to prevent overspill. But none of the manufacturers I can find offer this - any bright ideas please of what to use that will be visually acceptable? Single storey and will be at eye level on the one elevation as ground level rises. Fascia is clad with anthracite grey steel to match roof. Bracket has to be fixed to fascia - no rafters etc to fix to. My other option is osma stormline black - but second choice and waiting for them to answer with regard to how their spacers will work with brackets (they didnt know yesterday!!) or any other bright ideas please? here's hoping

door frame fixed to structural opening at sides - no fixing through threshold - this sits directly onto compacfoam (so yes is the simple answer) with a dpc between on my detailing. order exact size - not the easiest thing to cut, albeit i went a fraction too tight and had to trim about 1mm off the length. you don't want to be even thinking about reducing section!

we have used compacfoam under doors and in front of this an additional chamfered section (split due to dpc detailing). Bonded and mechanically fixed to masonry. (I found it best to drill it slow with a wood bit - it melted and bonded to a masonry bit running faster!). Thick timber frame walls with doors set back. Chequer plate aluminium over the chamfered bit tucking in under and sealed to the door threshold Will probably have a decking bridge to bring us in level - shingle around house below this. Or might do this with raised paving with drains under or on adjustable podiums - tbc. do you have a vertical section through door?

Jit was extremely helpful........... cost lower than other products i found. significanty in some cases

Jit Sehra Senior Technical Fire Consultant Intumescent Systems Ltd T/A Envirograf p: m: 01304 842 555 07831451628 e: Jit.Sehra@envirograf.com a: Intumescent Systems Ltd, Envirograf House, Barfrestone, Dover, Kent, CT15 7JG, United Kingdom w: www.envirograf.com

ouch. Thanks for everyone's thoughts I fitted all the horizontal external extruded polystyrene insulation yesterday (nearly dark on last ones!). Big fat continuous bead (dollop) of low expansion foam along the gap that ideally shouldn't be there. Then extruded polystyrene pushed in - held in place to stop the foam pushing it up and out with wedges cut from insulation. Will have expanded under sole plate a little. Tub of repair mortar from screwfix (sand cement) mixed not too wet, but wet enough to be forced in with mortar gun using flat rectangular nozzle. Have a conscientious and capable person here on day rates doing this - took most of morning but worked well. I simply don't have time to do everything I'd like as have to work for a living! DPM now down - insulation next then air tight membrane (also for screed) - UFH pipes / screed next week if all goes to plan. My thoughts to reach this conclusion below - not saying I am right, and may not be for everyone, and certainly not professional advice (which i don't believe you will get anywhere for this issue), but I'm quite happy with where we are: From what I've read seems the cartridges of repair mortar not great, big nozzles, and would need too many, and probably not work out well. I did look at one in the flesh - and indeed nozzle too big Didn't have time to procure a true non shrink grout - but from what I've worked out most too runny for what is required. And not designed for this application. Thinking further the timber soleplate has potential to shrink back a little anyway! The mortar used will shrink a fraction no doubt, but will support any load should it need to. No different to mortar between bricks - and with the foam on outside too little or no air will get through and 2 part mixed products probably too thick to work in properly.

thanks all - walls already on..........not a common detail (bit belt and braces if anything - certainly won't have any damp!) but BC approved, structural warranty approved, and calcs bring us to passivhaus high performance. Larsen truss panels (which are mainly insulation!) have all the load on the 140mm. The 'outer' brickwork is just to look nice and hold the insulation & persicope vents! would have been nicer off a raft but had to be suspended. Original plan was preinsulated concrete planks which would have been a lot easier - but had to change after manufacturer moved the goalposts - dpm capability / level tolerance / required topping.

ah... not thinking - I'll 'post' my horizontal insulation in first today - it's here ready and waiting. Each with a decent bead of GP sealant. This solves the problem of overflow! But still need to decide what to put in the gaps tomorrow 🤔

thanks both for your thoughts. 6-7mm ish - zero between sole plate and dpc. Zero of course being the high point of coursing blocks. Just over 40m of soleplate - but gaps not all round thankfully. External horizontal insulation not in yet (arrowed green). This will be cut and sealed in with the required 10mm gap to larsen truss panels and closed off with compriband/similar. Cladding last. blue is dpc/dpm red air tight membrane lapped and sealed to walls and for screed

@janedevon may I ask please what was your conclusion was? - if you are still on here? if anyone happens to be reading this over their coffee and has found the easiest/best product and method to do this would appreciate some knowledge from experience please 🤞. Just been scouring 'screwstation and toolfix' websites and will continue looking once I've sent this - currently very undecided what to use as quite a selection it seems. Thought I'd put the question out there again but bit of a long shot as need to decide quick and pick something up shortly this morning! Can't be too runny of course as it won't fill the gap and will just pour out. Only possible to get to it from inside - but don't want it coming out the other side either - there is a gap there (larsen truss wall panels) which will be filled with extruded installation before cladding. The 'soleplate gap' is outside of the internal air tight layer. Need to get stuck in and completed before Monday (amongst other things) when dpm/floor insulation work etc commences. Non shrink grout is the official line from the timber frame manufacturers - with my skillsets probably needs to be in a cartridge or foil sausage to pump into small gaps (between DPC and sole plate) Their site install team (very experienced) have suggested however most people foam it (but stopped short of recommending). Right or wrong? Thermally better, easy, and will hold / fill gap no doubt and probably go further in. Low expansion foam I like the sound of for doing the job, but it's limited structurally of course. Any thoughts please? Packers are spaced as designed and level is within timber frame manufacturers stated [sta] tolerance - and they were happy when preconstruction check took place. Still small gaps of course Install team actually commented our base is probably in the top 5 for level tolerance of any project they've installed - from self build to large developers. But still doesn't make it perfect with gaps present, however small, anywhere lower than the highest points. From comments I've heard/read in various places it seems quite likely the truth is many soleplates probably end up being fixed out of level pinned down tight to whatever is there - not right either! No comments please about what should have been - yes we know! This isn't helpful! Couldn't have a raft/slab/power floated foundation etc due to soil conditions - would have been so much simpler! Unfortunately perfect groundworkers/brickies are like rocking horse #### it seems - and many think they know better. The company we used did lot's of things well but where they didn't (number of items) they didn't like being told! Levels for example they brazenly stated and argued were within tolerance on scope (fortunately I had the sense to state less than actual max), which they weren't, and clearly didn't like the fact I was capable of checking! Short of a blazing row (was very close) or worse, and/or a long winded expensive court case / delays to whole project etc there was nowhere to go really. If this was traditional masonry build it really would have been fine. In addtion to clearly not fully digesting written scope / drawings and detailed conversations also made extra work for himself (not me) by ignoring suggested sequence due to unusual site conditions (he knew better, or thought he did!). We came to a commercial agreement on items I agreed to put right (not enough in hindsight) and remedial works completed despite not enough hours in a day already! Looking at it optimistically however maybe the cost was lower than if we'd been able to find somebody who could have completed work to perfect exacting standards - but would we have been able to afford this, and could it have been done in time? - probably not based on other responses. Bottom line is we are progressing and all will be fine.....................not a complicated project thank fully... Maybe I'm over particular, but I know what i want/expect! The groundworks stage has put me off ever doing this again unless money was no object! I work in the construction industry anyway (for a manufacturer - not on the tools and not currently housing) so know the score and how things work - which is probably why some so called trades have been a bit reluctant to work on our project as they know I know! not a bad thing as probably helps sift out the dross! Have had 3 people actually now say 'you know too much'! So I can only assume there's a huge amount of poor workmanship still hidden out there in housing, big and small........ rant over!

oh and nails or screws - for batten and cladding? (for the sweet chestnut need to use stainless). trada etc recommend screws for cladding - but most suppliers so far seem to suggest ARS nails, and some supply too

Afternoon all, on the next topic now and need some more opinions please! Plenty of contradictory information out there including from various timber suppliers and 'official guidelines'. So to cut through the uncertainty - what's right, and what's sensible / acceptable? We have timber frame larsen truss wall panels with 38mm studs to fix battens to (through the breather). Plan all along has been to use 25x50 battens. We have full plans approval and I know 25mm cavity is fine. Cladding will be horizontal sweet chestnut (as discharged planning condition) and have narrowed down to feather edge or shiplap. Visaully feather edge probably preferable - but cost, practicalities, and speed all factors too. (Rebated feather edge or half lap out as I need to trust somebody to leave the right gaps - and after the groundworks phase would rather mitigate risk! And I don't have time to do myself as have to work for a living. Waney edge visually was top of list but is out due to increased thickness and corner detail dimensions and how this interfaces with eaves/verge) 1. We will have butt joints in the cladding - how many depending on cladding lengths. (shiplap available longer wth finger joints). The recommendations (tdca / trada / elsewhere) is double battens at joints. And in which instance battens should be min 50x38. But seems possibly to be more precautionary rather then necessary. If I keep to 50x25mm battens and if nail/screw holes predrilled (which is the plan anyway being hardwood) is a butt joint in practice ok here just over the 50mm? Feather edge if green maybe not so good as a machined/dry shiplap. Or just side fix additional batten 25mm thick and ignore 38mm? 2. I haven't checked with timber yards yet but when I worked in timber industry 50x38 simply wasn't a standard size batten. The next question is batten grades - been reading reference to cladding battens are necessary and roofing battens shouldn't be used. This a new one to me. Anyone? Or maybe thinking some 75x25 suitably treated in all locations - again if easily obtainable with out paying stupid money - but feels over the top to me too 3. Fixings - 2 or 1? One makes far more sense to me, but again lot's of opinions and 'advice' out there! 4. If we run with feather edge will we have a problem with movement/gaps making having insect grilles almost pointless! The chestnut shouldn't in theory move like the softwood feather edge I've used in past on sheds etc (where it doesn't matter). Any experiences? Need to make a rapid decision - as whatever I do on the walls dictates what happens at the eaves/verge and the interface between corner of timber cladding at the interface with the eaves/verge joint. Really need to keep to 25mm thick battens as planned unless no choice to go to 38mm. No soffits / minimum overhangs. Need to order metal roof sheets / components urgent which will be made to measure for required dimensions! Hopefully somebody out there has been through same process and has all the answers please!!

ps switched to viking in end due to lead times. we were held up placing orders due to other people/companies delaying us!

no! sorry no idea...........

I feel your pain! Was a difficult process selecting. Narrowed down by decison to go supply and install only. We have Timber Innovations commencing on site next week with a Larsen truss system. I will report back when they are done. Ruled out sips quite early - yes proven systems but just didn't feel right! Careful with rafts all inclusive - I looked at this carefully early days as did seem attractive. If soil survey recommends suspended floor (as with ours) structural warranty provider / BCO may not be happy with raft. (we are on heavy clay and have deep strip footings with beam and block in end after preinsulated slab manufacturer moved the goalposts!) Careful with over enthusiastic proposals. You will also probably find initial dig and sub base will be excluded so any failure / movement this is where the finger will be pointed. And if 2 purchase orders/contracts expected the reduced risk starts to disappear. And you may find an unreasonable written contract by supplier/manufacturer is demanded (read the small print!) - as opposed to a contract in the form of a purchase order from the person spending the money! You may be offered windows too but will want separate contract probably so again not as shiny as it sounds. Might be fine of course and reputation good - but i wasn't prepared to accept risk and sign contract careful too with raft insulation providers - brilliant systems, but i know somebody who had problems with gaps etc which defeats the object! if we had the right soil would have gone with raft without a doubt. would have saved a whole world of grief with groundworker. (I know best - been doing this for hundreds of years guv etc!)

ouch - i've got just under 24m - thought that was enough!

ps - i that the Lindap half round gutter (JamesP) ? Looks good and on my list as a possible. All good or any issues? many thanks

thank you both for your thoughts - very helpful. 99% certain concluded as per sketch. Fascias first and clad over in trim to match roof. Cladding to underside of fascia (of any type!). No additional roof overhang with fascia planted on cladding which means not pushing beyond limits of OSB / standng seam. I can't be only one to have had this headache - move one thing to correct and something else is then wrong! It was more than just about wonky fascias on feather edge! please let this be my last conundrum!

Evening all, We need to fix barge boards and fascias direct to horizontal timber cladding. If cladding is feather edge (visually our current preference) there isn't a flat surface to connect to - is that a problem or am I overthinking this? (if we use a lapped cladding it will be flat). any thoughts appreciated please many thanks

having worked for and managed builders merchants for 18 years until 2003 (with a small stint at a tool/fixings distributor) I know the business extremely well. (now work for a specialist sub-contractor mainly in fit-out market). And yes it's one of the only industries left where having to haggle is the norm. You need to know the score! I did at one point consider setting up a new company - but didn't want the grief of being an employer so remained employed! The majority of conversations I have with merchants now (as a customer) tend to be me telling them what they are doing! Often poor knowledge (assume lack of training - used to be a big thing!), little commercial awareness, and astonishing how many clearly don't give a sh##! Welcome to the 2020's!! Unfortunately the 'professional independent merchants' are no longer imho. So often corporate groups just looking at bottom line doesn't help. The knowledge required to understand all products, how they are used/markets takes a long time to accumulate and very few people are interested - and merchants don't pay the rates required to attract and retain the right people. The building industry has changed significantly too - and with MMC increasing merchants will I believe need to adapt to retain levels of busiess (must already be shrinking?) - albeit there will always be a large traditional market for them. Our self build walls and roof is timber frame panels ready made out of a factory craned into position which has cut out a significant amount of procurement from merchants. They will also be more careful these days about the liabilty of providing informaton that could be deemed 'professional advice'. Most general builders merchants will I think seriously dumb down their range of products (probably already happening) and concentrate on heavyside/associated products, and timber. Lightside covered by plumbers/decorators merchants and with the likes of toolfix and screwstation who would pay double for a box of fixings / power tools etc. Builders merchants will probably continue to do well with direct to site sales from manufacturers who insist on supplying through merchants (not a bad thing) - will I assume still receive a typical 5% or so handling fee - I have had to do this on a few items, but have sorted the details out first with manufacturer. Too many have also tried to become DIY stores over time too and failed - apart from anything else it alienates ther core customers! Items we have needed have so far come from numerous businesses, including direct from manufacturers/distributors - would have had to been via merchant in past. Also used merchants of course - but from various depending what we need and up until couple weeks ago hadn't even bothered setting up an account anywhere (finally established a good contact - its the right person you need, the company less of a factor!). I can see merchants trying to sell everything shrinking - less money tied up in stock too! Already happening by default I feel with multiple companies selling specific product ranges on-line nationally with websites of varied user friendlyness - and a select few with remarkably good back up service with phone conversations possible with real people which is unusual these days with anything. And when I say real people i'm referring to those who do give a sh## and have a brain that contains common sense in addition to knowledge of what they are selling. The need to now use multiple suppliers is almost in a way turning back the clock! I could go on all day on this topic, but won't - I've rambled on enough as it is!! bottom line is (imo) as a self builder you need to know what you need and understand the market - info and opinions from merchants etc always useful but don't trust/rely on. So to get back on topic of setting up a dream builders merchant - sounds great, but good luck, plan extremely well, and be very careful........ and going off topic I've heard some ridiculous things over the last 6 months from merchants, disributors, and even manufacturers - and more so from trades who think they know better - 'I've been doing this for 30 years guv' scenario - then making mistakes and costing themselves money and time because they didn't listen and reluctance to change to new ways of doing things! One has cost me a little money. time and grief too (sloppy not immediately obvious things i found after they had completed - sorted myself as no point getting them back as they'd probably f### up something else and moan!) - needless to say that one won't be getting the next phase of works they were particularly keen to do! right thats enough, feel better now!

and how membrane is cut /folded etc? need extra? drip detail at head behind membrane? + intumescent between battens.