marmic

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c3w965gz8zgo

if there's a ditch too, or trace of one, look up 'hedge and ditch presumption' if there are boundary doubts/unknowns/disputes - but doesn't always apply either. Might be helpful?

i've read some mortgage companies are starting to get twitchy about anything thats been filled - no idea if thats true or to what extent however. Personally wouldn't touch anything thats had cavities filled with anything!

solid............ cavity fill also becoming a problem as I predicted years ago!

be very careful you don't cause a damp problem.............

also depends on performance of house - if energy requirements are ridiculously low it's quite possible. time will tell but once we have completed our build (passivhaus) pretty sure the heating will rarely kick in.

if you draw off too much heat from the compost won't you risk the whole system stalling? Good point!

great idea - had I only thought sooner! Whilst building we've been doing this in the shed: https://humanurehandbook.com/ which would provide a constant free heat source and not take years to fill. And quite ok to use in a house too. Not sure what BCO/EA would have to say and how to complete part L docs etc - but could well be on the agenda to heat garden office when I finally get there - no regs!..............got to finish the house first though

hopefully not but be prepared for a possibilty it could be more complicated??? is it definitely a water authority pipeline? no idea if different to england - but if the same: water authority should be able to provide a map of their pipes. If it's private could be time to be nice and/or write a 'name your price' cheque to get a connection (which could even involve a sub meter with rates possibly by your neighbour, albeit not sure on latter) but make sure you spend even more (with solicitor) and get an easement in place (and pay your neighbours fees too) which stays on land registry even when your property sold I know of some pipes you would think are water authority but they are private, sometimes shared - even if before meter. Water companies generally won't or are reluctant to adopt these and as far as I know can't be forced. I knew somebody way back elsewhere in the country who didn't know they were responsible for about 1/2 mile or more of pipe - which leaked badly - they reported it then received a surprise enforcement notice to repair due to wasteage, but really needed replacing at enormous cost added to further as highways also involved. Lost touch so no idea what happened in end worst case scenario off grid RWH time perhaps..................

the problem could also be beyond the surface in cavities? I havent studied too closely but not immediately obvious looking bricks where you have them. If where you have roof abutment and stepped flashings there are cavities and there are trays in place they could be invisibly directing the water internally into that corner. Or spread more evenly if there aren't any............

we used 1200g/300mu polythene dpm over B&B lapped/sealed to preformed dpc and corners which wrap up onto masonry upstands (with marmox) which timber frame sole plates are fixed to and lapped/sealed with dpc coming up from under beams - bit belt and braces. 2 layers insulation staggered/taped with upstands to perimeters/structural walls. 1200g/300mu again over that lapped up walls (more than usual) for screed and air tightness. UFH pipes onto that then 75mm liquid screed. polythene upstand then carefully cut and air taped to smartply airtight walls. worth the effort getting wall to floor interface right with preliminary air test before plasterboarding at ACH50 0.56 But depends on rest of your construction. agree with previous comments you could use 500g polythene under screed but couldnt see the point as little cost difference in grand scheme of things and wouldnt have right for me for the air tightness - would have split everythere! also agree no foil / foil tape in contact with screed

out of curiosity have just glanced back at quotation. Some errors and now recall the inclusions / exclusions / notes regarding install also put me off. As did their 'salesman'. Guessing things may have changed?........ good luck

https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/07818179/filing-history be interesting how the branding develops and who they supply................

is that recent?? viking also supply others so still worth shopping!

You'll need to establish what a P33 actually is. ie the manufacturer / product that has been rebranded - probably. From memory and as far as I know they mainly buy from viking which should therefore be a good product, and can also be procured from elsewhere. They are imo highly unlikley to tell you however and will probably go blue in the face insisting they manufacture. Should be able to work it out from drawings / images. Although i do vaguely recall somebody sayng on this forum they had bought viking, which I somehow doubt, but you never know!?!? I also recall reading a post where they had procured product from 2 manufacturers on a project to satisfy requirements - which is fine of course. Keep digging for the facts! My initial enquiries and due diligence started about a year ago so I could well be out of date......... Rebranding / white labelling is commonplace in all industry, but with big ticket items such as windows and doors I personally like transparency and to know exactly what I am buying. Albeit often it really isn't an issue - goods sold in supermarkets for example! In my employed job a few competitors claim they are manufacturers and buy from different sources different quality products and rebrand under the same name/product code - and supply whatever fits the negotiated price and to retain required margin, sometimes even providing a lower performance system than ordered as visually identical but means more profit and/or being more competitive. No I'm not saying what I do, but it is construction industry.

yes they provided door thresholds (all from factory) but didn't offer extended. I guess every job would be quite different - our doors are set right back. This to ensure a good finish that was also easy. And keeping the level approach straightforward

More ideas / recommendations required on gutters please! Capacity I'm comfortable with - issues are ventilation and water overshooting gutter during heavy rainfall. And keeping it nice visually - single storey and at one elevation eaves are at eye level from adjacent higher ground. Preference is galv finish, but anthracite grey or black will also work. Brackets have to be fascia fixed. Standing seam roof anthracite grey at 10° with matching fascia/barge. Matching spacers for ventilation limited to plastic systems it seems. These are to maintain ventilation behind gutter for airflow into roof cavity (through FV250 vents). Have asked BPD (Glidevale) if we don't use spacers whether they consider ventilation from above/in gutter space acceptable (personally can't see why not). If yes may or may not run it past BCO. If acceptable that problem solved meaning we can use galv steel gutter / similar - but then means further increased gutter size which won't look great on a relatively small building so just moves the problem! (and jumps in cost) Water overshooting gutter is my other issue so need to make sure we have sufficient projection (and no option to raise height of gutter). Obvious solution is larger gutter - but again will be visually dominating / not pretty! There's no calculation available (extract below from article by mgma.co.uk) so have been up on roof with watering can, spirit level, and rule! Osma (wavin) stormline with spacers currently seems the best option - but my 'getting soaking wet' trial tells me heavy downpours might still slightly overshoot. Packing out further with addtional spacer not possible as that then takes rear of gutter beyond where it needs to be for standing seam roof drip detail. This product has a slightly raised front edge - but needs to be higher. Could be the way we have to go, but would rather be 110%. In addition to not wanting a waterfall we are off grid RWH so need to catch every drop! Anyone know please of any other high front gutter system available in UK? Avoiding super expensive bespoke options! Or any recommendations for bespoke at sensible money? Seems to be the obvious answer, but need to find it! (frustratingly plenty on the market in Australia - I guess as metal roof systems been used so much more commonly than here for decades. But no time to import anything and wouldn't be cost effective or sustainable!) Fingers crossed.................... Different types of roof surfaces will create either more or less projection of discharge at the roof edge; for example, water will flow faster down a standing seam metal roof than a stone tiled roof. Currently there is no formula available that can establish the projection of water flow from the edge of different roof pitches, heights and roofing materials to enable the installation of the correct width of gutter.

and you will get the same windows (ie from the same manufacturer) from elsewhere for less!

viking?

Nordica have been brilliant and no BS from day 1. Transparency when asked with regard to product/manufacturer. (companies who rebrand and claim they are the manufacturers annoy me, and you may not even know what you are actually buying!) Site team great. Some slight adjustments required from manufacturing (viking) - Nordica will be returning when scaffold down so windows can be fully opened to do this. Nordica also use Slowinscy which was our original preference and slighty lower cost, but lead times dictated our decision. we are undertaking a preliminary air tightness test so any leaks can be plugged before we plasterboard etc. I'm not expecting any issues as been belt and braces throughout, but you never know! with all windows and doors shut you can really feel the pressure when opening the door which is an excellent sign. Simon also supplied and installed the extended sills with upstands to sides too. In our case wider than windows almost right to the reveals - we'll be lining with timber to match the cladding. Again ensure accurate dims. Extended sills required as windows set back - windows were manufactured with increased dimension at base to ensure a fall on sill. (other suppliers / manufacturers didn't offer or understand - and those who did listen were talking about making windows smaller and adding packers on site - not good!) For door thresholds we used aluminium chequerplate from https://www.chequerplatedirect.co.uk/checker-plate/made-to-measure-door-threshold-cover/ brilliant company/product - bent to required angle too (these are bonded direct to slightly sloped chamfered compacfoam) Installation can be to different levels of performance - in our case to passivhaus stds including air tightness. Also weather seals to external. We decided early on we had to go full supply and install - although were tempted by supply only to save money but just didn't feel comfortable with added risk. Some manufacturers didn't offer supply and install but still quoted supply only and provided details of approved installers claiming this is as good - it isn't as still adds risk as splits responsibility. Suppliers/manufacturers that do offer supply and install be careful and read everything, there was one for example that promised the earth but the quotation firmly excluded weather sealing and air tightness - their rep was arrogant too! And 110% agree with nod - get the dims correct (measure in more than one position), check openings square and include any discrepancies with survey info, and also agree tolerance rationel / dovista / velfac didn't offer supply and install, nor supply only, but instead forwarded enquiry to one of their supply and install distributors which is fine. This company also offer other brands. I had the impression they would have probably done a good job (???) albeit they missed 3 windows and the price tag was still ridiculous! So was a non-starter based on my experience going out to the window and door market the words caveat emptor come to mind! be careful out there!

morning all, Intention is (or was!) to use a galv roll front steel gutter (eg lindab / galeco etc) but must have a spacer (circa 20mm ish) behind fascia bracket for ventilation into roof, and to position gutter correctly to prevent overspill. But none of the manufacturers I can find offer this - any bright ideas please of what to use that will be visually acceptable? Single storey and will be at eye level on the one elevation as ground level rises. Fascia is clad with anthracite grey steel to match roof. Bracket has to be fixed to fascia - no rafters etc to fix to. My other option is osma stormline black - but second choice and waiting for them to answer with regard to how their spacers will work with brackets (they didnt know yesterday!!) or any other bright ideas please? here's hoping

door frame fixed to structural opening at sides - no fixing through threshold - this sits directly onto compacfoam (so yes is the simple answer) with a dpc between on my detailing. order exact size - not the easiest thing to cut, albeit i went a fraction too tight and had to trim about 1mm off the length. you don't want to be even thinking about reducing section!

we have used compacfoam under doors and in front of this an additional chamfered section (split due to dpc detailing). Bonded and mechanically fixed to masonry. (I found it best to drill it slow with a wood bit - it melted and bonded to a masonry bit running faster!). Thick timber frame walls with doors set back. Chequer plate aluminium over the chamfered bit tucking in under and sealed to the door threshold Will probably have a decking bridge to bring us in level - shingle around house below this. Or might do this with raised paving with drains under or on adjustable podiums - tbc. do you have a vertical section through door?

Jit was extremely helpful........... cost lower than other products i found. significanty in some cases