Michael_S

Quick Q. With PIV air is drawn into the loft and then into the house. Where do we think the moisture in that air is likely to go? Will some be deposited in the loft and might this cause issues?

Yes, trial. There are two sets of trial units, Indra who will not support second (hand) users and quasar where they can be used by a new (second hand) owner but there is basically no support if they go wrong.

I am really interested in this, currently running v2h with a 40kwh and 62kwh leaf but the 40 is basically stationary storage and would like to swap it for say 30kwh of batteries plus an inverter to give higher max output. Have seen put together yourself batts at about 1,500 for 15kwh so if I could do the whole thing for 4k I would probably cover it with the sale of the 40 leaf and then have a bit more flexibility. Don't suppose you blogged your install anywhere?! (Edit - don't really need it here, but islanding would be nice - did you look into it?)

Did you install the battery(s) and invertor yourself? How about DNO approval?

Shoots and sores, tried a replacement second hand controller, same issue of loosing setting on power off. Purchased a replacement capacitor and power cycled and settings retained. Capacitor was 2 quid, paid a guy £35 to desolder / resolder the new one - need to develop that skill myself.

This has been talked about for months now, I believe there was a consultation that closed last spring(?) Amusing that your article links to a Daily Telegraph piece saying noise rules are to be scrapped when it would appear that the noise rules will not change, only rules on size and positioning.

I was advised that air to water doesn't really work for cooling because you get condensation on the rads If the fa blew at the hose it would probably freeze the wall - when it is cold outside the heat pump puts out a majorly icy blast - or 'refreshing' as my teenage son puts it.

Yes, am aware of the dip switches and mine actually currently has a Netatmo receiver attached, I am pretty sure the Netatmo is powered by a live and return and then there is a second 'switched live' that is the 'call for heat' signal, it is just I am used to low voltage open/closed circuit thermostat controls so am just a bit wary about wiring in my mains voltage wifi switch/relay as if I am wrong it will fry the board....

It took me an awful long term thinking the whole unit was dodgy before I figured that this 'holiday' programme was set - the loss of any programming after each power cycle did not make it more intuitive what was going on and both the installer and user manuals are 'unclear' and limited in scope. Luckily the service configuration settings (things like flow temp, weather comp curve etc) do seem to be retained I guess they are stored in some sort of ROM chip. Do you know if the thermostat needs to switch a nominal current (5v dc) or similar or does it switch mains voltage? I have two wifi relays that I was going to use for thermostat control using home automation but was not sure whether to use the nominal voltage one or the mains one. Thanks

Now that is helpful, it does have a SC on the controller board (STARCAP 0.33F 5.5v tabbed) that I had originally hoped was a battery. Do SCs degrade over time the same way batts do in which case a like for like swap might be the answer?

LG Therma V LG HM121M.U32 (AHBW126A0) So this is a second hand unit that I have installed so no warranty, no installer to fall back on. Unit works fine unless there is even a 1s power cut after which the controller restarts in 'off' mode and the clock and programme settings are lost (it seems to go into a default 'holiday mode' settings well as being off). There is no sign of a 'bios' type battery that I can see on either the controller or main unit circuit boards. The unit did not come with a controller, I got a second hand one and it had this problem. I have now got another second hand one and it at least comes back to 'on' if the power goes on and off, but it also loses the time and reverts to the holiday mode programme so is not a big step forward. Can anyone advise where I can get support on this, I have not managed to find LG service support anywhere neither a phone number nor an email that gets answered. I was wondering if I could use one of the newer controllers with my old series 2 heat pump? It has 3 wires labelled 12v, grnd and signal. Thanks for any suggestions This is the controller I am using - tbh I don't actually have any documentation confirming it is the correct one for my heat pump but it looks like the pics in the manual

WE have the sensor unit with 4 screws that seems to be common with a tumble dryer - seems to cost a minimum of 115 A bit of experimentation - the 'paddle' needs to be down (no flow) when the unit boots and up (flow) once the pump comes on - not sure if I can do something clever as a one off during start up or whether it will also check there is no flow whenever the pump is off - the current error state is that it appears to think it is up (flow) all the time.

Annoying, have the dreaded CH14 today. As above I have a second pump that runs full time and the flow rate on my heat meter seems to be what it always was so I guess that points to a problem with the flow sensor rather than a real flow obstruction? Any other thoughts?

Another question - LG Therma V and power cuts. Default behaviour seems to be go to standby after a power interruption and lose the unit time and for mine set a random 'holiday' programme active every day. Having the unit default to basically 'off' after a power cut seems like a potential disaster if you are away on holiday in the winter and have a power outage - any way around this?

Thanks. Seems an odd omission, my 15 year old gas boiler with weather comp had this option. Perhaps they expect everyone to use a programable thermostat to control the unit?

Thanks, I am lucky enough to have lying around two different wifi relay/switches, one of which powers and switches on or off a 240v circuit, the other a low/volt free circuit. Just need to use the correct one... Aroidful Mini WiFi Smart Light Switch DIY Breaker Module, WiFi Smart Relay Switch Controlled by Smart Life/Tuya App, Compatible with Alexa Echo and Google Home, Support 1 Way or 2 Way 100V-240V 16A : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools DieseRC 1 Channel WIFI Smart Switch, DC 5V 12V 24V 36V passive output Relay Module Ewelink APP WIFI Control Compatible with Alexa/Google Home, Inching/Self-locking Switch : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

I have a 2nd gen (U32) 12kwh purchased second hand. It is set up and running, heating only with the secondary immersion heater disabled via the dip switches. I am using the weather comp AI (-10 +55, 15 +25) to control the operation with the 'hysteresis' On-off range set to the highest values to minimise short cycling. On the controller you can manually apply a flow temp offset between +/- 3. Is these any way to automate this offset on a time programme so I can have a night time set back so we can have the house cooler at night? Thanks

Can you confirm that the thermostat uses a L, N and switched L as call for heat - all 240v? I am planning on using a wifi relay switch powered by the L and N and controlled by home automation (samsung smartthings) to use my smart thermostat to control the unit operation. With a thermostat controlling call for heat, will the AI still control the flow temp based on the external temp? Thanks

This is the install manual, page 41 and 42 seems to me to imply that the feed to the thermostat is 230v and it expects a 230v live return on the call for heat. Anyone else read it the same way or have the same model with a thermostat to confirm? Thanks https://gscs-b2c.lge.com/downloadFile?fileId=EoU8EjdDipG6CZuc7jLw

Thanks both. Think I have the right controller and have managed to fix the switching off issue but finding out how to clear all the 'reservations' Am now running on AI mode using the WT but it is currently so mild I am not sure if it is really working or not, I am just getting some really short cycles - say 5 mins every 20 mins. Does anyone use the AI/weather comp mode? What does it do beyond the high temp setting, say the settings are -10 +50 and +15, +25, what happens if the air temp is 16C+ does it automatically power off or will it continue at 25C whatever the air temp?! Finally still on the question of thermostat control - if I connect a wifi switch to the thermostat and get it to send a mains live output to the control terminal when I want the unit to come on and no output when I want it off, will this work to control the unit (if I set the correct dip switch?

Thanks again - you don't happen to know how the on/off thermostat is connected inside the outdoor unit do you? Do you control it via a wired connection or use a remote wifi switch?

Space heating only. The aux heater is disconnected and turned off via dip switches Thinking I will remove the Netatmo receiver even though it is not supposed to be doing anything. With your control method, what sort of signal are you sending to the heat pump and how is it connected - is it simply an on/off signal or is it a temperature signal? Mains voltage or low voltage signal? Thanks

OK. It is turning off every hour, on the hour, regardless of how long it has been running at that point....

Thanks. Part of me wonders if I have the right controller for the heat pump (12kW HM121M U32) When you say you use thermostat control, I can see how you would feed the heat pump with a temp sensor (our heat pump has a netatmo receiver unit inside but didn't come with the sender unit so I have set the dip switches to ignore it) but is there any way to just give it a simple 'on/off' signal which you could then control with whatever home automation software you had available? You can't simply control the power supply as it seems to lose all settings and start in the 'off' condition - plus probably not that good for it too simply power off in the middle of operation. Thanks

I have this controller but for example enter time set with a short press of the settings button - a 3s press takes me into the configuration settings. Do you have this controller? How can I just make it turn on and run - the on button and choosing Temp mode or AI mode does make it run but it then just goes to off after about an hour, pressing the on button makes it go again. no error messages. Don't think I have set p any reservations although when I go into the weekly reservations menu I see some odd times with the hours and minutes outside of the 0-24 and 0-60 range.