Michael_S

Will depend for on the serries Uxx number

The less than 1m from property boundary rule then planning permission required rule has now been removed. I would like to mount a heat pump on the side wall of my property (wall is 1m from the boundary) at 3m above ground level, about 4m back from the front elevation of the property. Would this now fall within permitted development. (It passes MCS sound rules). Thanks for your thoughts.

Ok - so even though the gas is capped off they would still see the condemned boiler and do an EPC based on having gas heating. So I would need to remove the boiler to have an assessment based on no heating system beyond the electric rads? Which still begs the question. Having removed the boiler and so switched the heating to electric how much would it shift the EPC? And it doe smatter, you need D or below to qualify for ECO4 funding.

Hi My current EPC done as part of a solar install says C at time of check but would be a B with the panels which are now installed. Since then our gas boiler has broken and we have temporarily capped off the gas and are using electric immersion and rads for heating. My question is whether it might be if I got a new EPC it would be a D or below so I would qualify for a low income household ECO4 heat pump grant that needs an EPC of D or below. I don't seem to be able to find any info on how to calc an EPC or even the approximate impact of changing the heating method. Thanks for any thoughts

So you don't have any pipes anywhere indoors in voids anywhere that could see condensation? I read somewhere that anything below 18C was risky for (unseen) condensation leading to damp/rot problems down the line.

How low flow temp are people risking with regards to the condensation risk? Has anyone tried home made 'fan tails' by putting the fans to blow onto the radiators?

Glad you got it sorted, when we had an issue taking the flow switch off and cleaning it seemed to solve the problem, lucky as they are not cheap for what they are!

WE added some valves to the ASHP water circuit teeing off a separate circuit that we stuck through a plate heat exchanger (from a gas boiler, £20 off ebay) and then had the pool filter circulation pump go through this as well - so the heat exchanger is basically run as a 'zone'. Add appropriate timers to the heat pump and the filter pump and jobs a good un.

Quick Q. With PIV air is drawn into the loft and then into the house. Where do we think the moisture in that air is likely to go? Will some be deposited in the loft and might this cause issues?

Yes, trial. There are two sets of trial units, Indra who will not support second (hand) users and quasar where they can be used by a new (second hand) owner but there is basically no support if they go wrong.

I am really interested in this, currently running v2h with a 40kwh and 62kwh leaf but the 40 is basically stationary storage and would like to swap it for say 30kwh of batteries plus an inverter to give higher max output. Have seen put together yourself batts at about 1,500 for 15kwh so if I could do the whole thing for 4k I would probably cover it with the sale of the 40 leaf and then have a bit more flexibility. Don't suppose you blogged your install anywhere?! (Edit - don't really need it here, but islanding would be nice - did you look into it?)

Did you install the battery(s) and invertor yourself? How about DNO approval?

Shoots and sores, tried a replacement second hand controller, same issue of loosing setting on power off. Purchased a replacement capacitor and power cycled and settings retained. Capacitor was 2 quid, paid a guy £35 to desolder / resolder the new one - need to develop that skill myself.

This has been talked about for months now, I believe there was a consultation that closed last spring(?) Amusing that your article links to a Daily Telegraph piece saying noise rules are to be scrapped when it would appear that the noise rules will not change, only rules on size and positioning.

I was advised that air to water doesn't really work for cooling because you get condensation on the rads If the fa blew at the hose it would probably freeze the wall - when it is cold outside the heat pump puts out a majorly icy blast - or 'refreshing' as my teenage son puts it.

Yes, am aware of the dip switches and mine actually currently has a Netatmo receiver attached, I am pretty sure the Netatmo is powered by a live and return and then there is a second 'switched live' that is the 'call for heat' signal, it is just I am used to low voltage open/closed circuit thermostat controls so am just a bit wary about wiring in my mains voltage wifi switch/relay as if I am wrong it will fry the board....

It took me an awful long term thinking the whole unit was dodgy before I figured that this 'holiday' programme was set - the loss of any programming after each power cycle did not make it more intuitive what was going on and both the installer and user manuals are 'unclear' and limited in scope. Luckily the service configuration settings (things like flow temp, weather comp curve etc) do seem to be retained I guess they are stored in some sort of ROM chip. Do you know if the thermostat needs to switch a nominal current (5v dc) or similar or does it switch mains voltage? I have two wifi relays that I was going to use for thermostat control using home automation but was not sure whether to use the nominal voltage one or the mains one. Thanks

Now that is helpful, it does have a SC on the controller board (STARCAP 0.33F 5.5v tabbed) that I had originally hoped was a battery. Do SCs degrade over time the same way batts do in which case a like for like swap might be the answer?

LG Therma V LG HM121M.U32 (AHBW126A0) So this is a second hand unit that I have installed so no warranty, no installer to fall back on. Unit works fine unless there is even a 1s power cut after which the controller restarts in 'off' mode and the clock and programme settings are lost (it seems to go into a default 'holiday mode' settings well as being off). There is no sign of a 'bios' type battery that I can see on either the controller or main unit circuit boards. The unit did not come with a controller, I got a second hand one and it had this problem. I have now got another second hand one and it at least comes back to 'on' if the power goes on and off, but it also loses the time and reverts to the holiday mode programme so is not a big step forward. Can anyone advise where I can get support on this, I have not managed to find LG service support anywhere neither a phone number nor an email that gets answered. I was wondering if I could use one of the newer controllers with my old series 2 heat pump? It has 3 wires labelled 12v, grnd and signal. Thanks for any suggestions This is the controller I am using - tbh I don't actually have any documentation confirming it is the correct one for my heat pump but it looks like the pics in the manual

WE have the sensor unit with 4 screws that seems to be common with a tumble dryer - seems to cost a minimum of 115 A bit of experimentation - the 'paddle' needs to be down (no flow) when the unit boots and up (flow) once the pump comes on - not sure if I can do something clever as a one off during start up or whether it will also check there is no flow whenever the pump is off - the current error state is that it appears to think it is up (flow) all the time.

Annoying, have the dreaded CH14 today. As above I have a second pump that runs full time and the flow rate on my heat meter seems to be what it always was so I guess that points to a problem with the flow sensor rather than a real flow obstruction? Any other thoughts?

Another question - LG Therma V and power cuts. Default behaviour seems to be go to standby after a power interruption and lose the unit time and for mine set a random 'holiday' programme active every day. Having the unit default to basically 'off' after a power cut seems like a potential disaster if you are away on holiday in the winter and have a power outage - any way around this?

Thanks. Seems an odd omission, my 15 year old gas boiler with weather comp had this option. Perhaps they expect everyone to use a programable thermostat to control the unit?

Thanks, I am lucky enough to have lying around two different wifi relay/switches, one of which powers and switches on or off a 240v circuit, the other a low/volt free circuit. Just need to use the correct one... Aroidful Mini WiFi Smart Light Switch DIY Breaker Module, WiFi Smart Relay Switch Controlled by Smart Life/Tuya App, Compatible with Alexa Echo and Google Home, Support 1 Way or 2 Way 100V-240V 16A : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools DieseRC 1 Channel WIFI Smart Switch, DC 5V 12V 24V 36V passive output Relay Module Ewelink APP WIFI Control Compatible with Alexa/Google Home, Inching/Self-locking Switch : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

I have a 2nd gen (U32) 12kwh purchased second hand. It is set up and running, heating only with the secondary immersion heater disabled via the dip switches. I am using the weather comp AI (-10 +55, 15 +25) to control the operation with the 'hysteresis' On-off range set to the highest values to minimise short cycling. On the controller you can manually apply a flow temp offset between +/- 3. Is these any way to automate this offset on a time programme so I can have a night time set back so we can have the house cooler at night? Thanks