Barryscotland

To be fair the shower was fitted about 6 months before tiles where even picked. Now the shower in the other bathroom has no excuses, it's proper squint

Shower valve is a rhoper Rhodes event sv1406. All I can find is a flow cartridge and thermostatic cartridge. No non return valve or parts diagram

All I see is I need to give it a clean. It is straight I have the camera squint. You would have it centered in a tile?

If I remember there is an adjustable Allen key in the face of each cartridge behind the dials once there removed, unsure what they did tho. Put pressure back up and isolated each tap in turn but that made no difference so must be a shower. Couldn't hear any flowing noise from behind tiles. One shower does drip awhile after switching off if that could indicate a fault

If I remember there is an adjustable Allen key in the face of each cartridge behind the dials once there removed, unsure what they did tho. Put pressure back up and isolated each tap in turn but that made no difference so must be a shower. Couldn't hear any flowing noise from behind tiles. One shower does drip awhile after switching off if that could indicate a fault

Yes, new build 2 years ago. Probably going to end up being a shower body as only way to access is remove tiles an cut a hole. Will investigate further after work.

It appears that I have mains cold in the hot side permanently not just when a taps open. When I close the cold feed into the water cylinder open a hot tap then open the valve at the tun dish I have a constant pressurised flow where as it would normally spit n gurgle a bit then stop. Can a normal mixer tap failing cause this or is it only a shower body that would? Suppose I can eliminate the taps easy enough by isolating them

I don't think it has, it's been fine for two years, I think something has just broke. Just need to figure out what, if the trend continues it'll be the most expensive bit.

Unvented cylinder heated from a gas boiler. All hot taps and showers are fed from the one outlet off cylinder. All mixer taps are putting only cold water out, showers and normal taps are fine. Mains water has a pressure regulator on it that was set at 4 bar, I turned that down to 2.5bar and I get hot water from mixer taps as normal. I've not noticed an increase in pressure so pressume that it's always been at 4 bar and nothings changed there but for some reason the cold water is now over powering the hot? system is no longer balanced? Any plumbers point me in right direction? At first I presumed it was a failed cartridge in the mixer taps but three wouldn't go at once but if one failed could it cause the problem?

they are 7"

there attic trusses so are designed to be turned into a liveable space and take the weight, "for future development" the house has been designed to develop the upstairs into a habitable space in the future.

It was the mesh tape, but all missing the point here, its been fine with next to zero crackage for nearly two years, what little crackage there was was fixed after a year. since the attic was floored 3 months ago about 30percent of all ceiling joints have cracked open.

Do you mean the chipboard flooring will shrink? Attic trusses have surely done most of there shrinking

Whats scrim? Plasterboard joins where taped, skimmed over then rubbed down before painting

There’s 25+ cracks

Bungalow with attic trusses for future development was built, finished, after a year or so snagging of decor done and a few cracks in ceiling along tapes and screw pops fixed. another 6 months later the attic was floored and within a few weeks cracks started to appear in ceilings which we expected a few of but every room has multiple and some are a few mm wide, theres even a few starting in the upper edges of room walls. Upstairs isn't in use its just storage. Question is should we be concerned and if we wait another 6 months and have the tapes fixed and redecorate is it going to continue to happen?

Thanks, did think that’s probably the case.

If the invoice doesn’t show vat or vat number but company is vat registered is there a way to include it in my vat reclaim?

Our attic is shown as only having 450mm of rockwool but I have floored and insulated the "roomed area" with 100mm PIR. Can I claim the Vat back on the Chipboard and PIR?

Buy a digger instead, we have an old JCB 3c and a 3t bobcat. In three years The JCB is used to hold up the kids zipline 99.9999% of the time, other than that was used to move a few pallets of slate onto scaffold and to scoop up a few ton of chuckies for dumping into soakaway. Digger is used every other day

Got that all sorted now, next disaster was I assumed that as my roof is a 45 degree pitch a 45 degree bend would follow the trusses so had my vertical height sorted so top of flue 45 bend height was 60mm below bottom of the truss, plumbed it cemented it n secured it then went up into the attic to run the rest of the flue up to just below the ridge to discover that the angle needed was more like 50 degree so after putting on 2 meter of flue it was nearly touching the sarking. My flue make only does 15 30 an 45 bends so only way I can think to get the angle needed is to run the vertical of the plumb? Realise I should of done a dry run first n checked angles etc.

We’re also building in Perthshire, don’t no if we could of organised it better but we had scary coneyencing fees twice, first when we acquired the land then second a year later once planning and building warrant where in place an we needed to mortgage it.

Ok, so is it the same with the twin wall?

Stupid question time Presuming the yellow dots is the top as the female end of my flue pipe slides over it nice an snug. How do you attach the soot box cap?????? It wont slide over the bottom of the tee and theres no lip for the clamp to hook over. It slides over the yellow dot bit nice n snug but then the flue has to slide inside the tee if its used the other way up which cant be correct?

And say that section was spanning 900mm do you think two rails would be strong enough to take a tv an mount or would it need to be beefed up?